Mr B

black pu40 adhesive sealer probably work well on that, i've used everbuild brand for years & always have black & white tubes on standby. I've used it to bond awkward body trim/door protection strips & window trim & worked well on all.

Should just enter 4 digits, be sure the immobilizer has cut in by trying turn key, ignition key would also need be in the ign position. Sounds like Fob gone bad on your original key then, you could try reprogramming it to the alarm with its new battery if that no go then try find one on eBay or breakers & swap fob board to your key housing & reprogram it to alarm. price from Subaru is shocking, even the fobs that hang on key ring can work (be programmed) if can't find the built in keyfob easily. Useful thread on fob programming below > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/306-remote-needed/?p=34581 Good M30 Manual > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

Just unlock with fob, wait for the 30 second immobilizer cuts in so when turn ignition key you need press alarm button again but don't press alarm button, use your pin code . You could also sit in car arm alarm wait 30 seconds then open the door so alarm start screaming then try you pin code to turn it off ;-) Out of interest is the other key fob turning alarm on or off or is it 100% dead when pressing the button ?

yours has the M30 sigma ! remote built into key & one button You have a transponder chip built in to key as well as the remote board for the alarm. Transponder works with engine ecu & is completely seperate to the M30 Sigma alarm. Transponder works by proximity of key to receiver on steering column. this could be the issue if actual alarm push button fob appears to work. Any decent locksmith specialising in cars can program transponder chips & either supply with new key or try graft new chip in your old key. If the fob is faulty try pick up a spare one same type (built into key) from a breakers or ebay then swap the board to your key & program the new fob. what you also want do is take the opportunity to program a new 4 pin digit security code such as your birthday so you never forget it, this can be done easily while have a working remote so would suggest doing that ASAP, link below to help > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/1543-alarm-system/?p=24257

Well it is indeed possible as I seen it done & had correct it myself, both springs for the sls & non sls are virtually same besides length little different & Kg spring rates not same. Many people tried replacing the sls with kyb strut & reuse old spring & that how found spring specs different between the 2 & need the matching non sls spring to match the non sls strut. I will supply you with both kyb spring part numbers (may help garage) & hopefully some spec details if can, could be few hours as a busy late afternoon .

Is also possible struts wrong ones but that more unlikely as kyb list them only (even for sls model) when parts put in info on the database, with springs if they see it sls model they tend supply same sls kyb spec springs unless clued up on the conversion ... pretty sure the struts have model number stamper in the body as well as the red KYB sticker .

Yeh sounds like a plan, have good hunt round the cars holding pockets etc as may find the wheel socket, if notyou can normally bash a socket on to get them off. My guess is someone done the rear suspension & used new kyb springs but sls ones rather than non sls (seen it done more than once :-S )

They have kyb stamped on them !? any chance of photo .

Yeh that deffo sagging on the rear . should have stamped number on the kyb struts. Springs more tricky on knowing what they fitted but I know if you fit the sls springs (kyb do sls spec springs as well) you get sag as they not same height or spring rate as the non sls so possible parts man ran it through computer and supplied original sls spec when should of been non sls. Have good look at struts for numbers, if they right I would advise getting a set of springs from springcoil.co.uk & specify 15-20mm extra ride height over their standard as then allows for some loading. If heavy towing get higher spring rates. Set of springs from them is about £130 but quality very good & they good on phone as done a few now for the forester non sls conversions.

I would remove the filler first so you know you can get oil back in, then remove drain & once drained inspect plug & threads in drain hole. you may improve it with new plug but also some pu40 black sealer (everbuild) on the threads & nipped to point before slips then left cure for hour or 2 before filling could make it serviceable as is, you may get plug matched in a decent motorfactors or try ICP or local Subaru as doubt it that expensive :-S Thread repair is possible but bit of a pain.

SLS is made buy tokico & looks much the same, some had external oil canister & some didn't. If looks saggy or you carry load/towing you could try new springs & perhaps get a pair from springcoil & spec them sliightly stiffer rate & 15-20mm over standard ride height. Would be good measure your ride height on rear.

Turbo related then, boost leak if lucky. Look at the 2 diagrams for auto & manual rad & make a decision from that. Thought I linked manual but see was auto. manual example below http://www.carcooling.co.uk/products/Radiator_Subaru_Forester_1994_cc_1998_02_08_98_05_02_2_0_i_16V_AWD_Turbo_S_Manual_vehicles_with_A_C_340_686_16mm_12SU305-115087-1125.html

Rad example > http://www.carcooling.co.uk/products/Radiator_Subaru_Forester_1994_cc_1998_02_08_98_05_02_2_0_i_16V_AWD_Turbo_S_Automatic_vehicles_without_A_C_340_686_16mm_12SU306-115088-1125.html Does whine stop if clutch depressed !?

With ICP it cheaper buy direct as they load prices on eBay because of eBay fees & paypal fees. http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=1546&cat=96⊂=103&sec=1538&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= I buy mine from The Bearing Shop exeter mainly, any bearing supplier will do these so if your garage uses a bearing shop could be worth checking price with them. I use old bearings outer races as press drifts, you may want throw yours through a euro car parts window though :-)

Sounds good ... 1st time lucky :-)

^ for you the bit near bottom on 1999 to 2002 is relevant, if your car a EU model & has the 99 on style OBD2 plug you got better diagnostic options purely as more support for that protocol system.

diagnostic software http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/10869-help-forester-diagnostics/?p=63645

i would road test it & log data via ssm first myself. RR cost a lot more to do same thing really .

O2 is narrow band so unlikely be issue, I would be looking at maf with multimeter checks & perhaps a clean if readings show nothing out of spec. tps needs looking at to with multimeter for checks. Being a 99 it should have obd2 style diagnostics so will work with ssm diagnostics so you can run O2 sensor tests & view/log live sensor data & see if anything amiss . plumbing in fuel gauge to test line pressure & regulator function would be good. If over fuelling your spark plugs should show evidence of this. Compression test would be smart just get quick idea of engine health. injector test would be good if nothing else shows up.

Yeh you can check for fluid but generally they not leaking, it normally an internal valving issue with the sls that causes it to not work & sag. Generally anyone questioning it has some level of sag, worse case on sls is about 50mm drop . It a good sign car done a fair bit of towing or been on real rough B roads/farm tracks as 92k not a lot for them, I see original sls on SG foresters like yours at almost twice that mileage under lighter use & probably more motorway miles. The KYB stuff is good way go & parts have 2yr warranty. Can effect handling, especially if one side only failed.

Have you pinned it down to bearing then . Least easy to do & not ridiculously expensive but indeed a bummer . Bearing quality is awful in some of the cheaper & even not so cheap obscure brands, I can't afford the risk of using poor quality parts so am super fussy on this stuff. Bearings are one of those areas where you got choose right brand & it not always more expensive & if is it not by much. You can get bearing kits for as little as £15 but they are awful, even comparing some well known brands to ntn & nsk is night & day in precision & quality consistency.

I would be checking maf, tps switch, general hoses & connectors, fuel pressure, fuel injectors for jet leak/drip/flow rate etc. what do spark plugs look like ? do a pic ...

No these are mechanical valves & height is adjust using the struts own ride motion to pump the fluid to maintain a set height . Ideally you want look at it on level ground, in good order rear should look pert. If not towing you could use it like it for some time. Replacing is obviously the best route & not overly costly usng KYB parts, Struts springs & all parts would cost around £240 & fitting is easy (1hr for garage) A job you could do yourself if spanner handy.

Sagging on the rear is common sign of failing rear SLS. New SLS is very very expenxive as the SLS tokiko struts are only available from Subaru. If struts not leaking they will pass MOT ok but if intending keep vehicle a while then replacing would be very wise. You can use KYB struts though & kyb flex springs for replacement option, if towing a lot you may be better use springcoil custom spec'd springs to match towing needs. Thread below with links for parts > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7216-2005-forester-xt-rear-sls-unit-leaking/

^ sfk & even koyo not bad but there is a reason why subaru, nissan & just about all jap manufacturers & engineers use ntn & nsk in preference . ntn & nsk also sensible price at £44 or under for bearing kit.