Mr B

If the code doesn't clear and come right back without vehicle moving it indeed likely wiring or new sensor creating a bias voltage that out of spec to the code criteria limits , but do realise it could still be issue with the signal return line at any point or even computer itself (uncommon but possible) . This where reading live data via scan tool or visual representation on the sensor output wiring with a scope becomes advantageous . Not uncommon have issues with aftermarket sensors and as the Blueprint ones are close to 10th the price of oem you know they ain't high quality, Blueprint japan sourced likely been 60 to 100 but they would work well . Biggest issue we have in trade these days is sourcing quality parts and getting customers understand we not fleecing them by using oem or higher priced specific brand aftermarket . Lot of what was reputable aftermarket brands have turned to lower quality sourcing and lot of motor factors only stock garbage brands these days, ECP being one of the worst lol . Fact customers can find parts (garbage with a fancy sticker or in a fancy box) on eBay or Amazon for price of a takeaway makes it even harder at times lol .

blueprint use to be quite good but it now under the febi bilstein group and lot of parts tend be same EU sourced parts (garbage) as these brands rather than better Japan oem manufacturers it was before . I would try likes of ICP and amayama for oem part . other brands for abs sensor would be Bosch or ABS . Checking voltage to sensor would be good, your easiest test methods are either using old sensor with repaired harness or with some cable and t-pins make some extensions to connect left sensor to right and right to left and see if code swaps to right, if it does then it certainly sensor assembly related . Without decent speed live data scanner and a basic scope diagnosis can be a more limited process . You can get a pretty good scope platform for under £50 these days (HScope is amazing low entry tool for automotive diag work),

What brand replacement sensor ? what scan tools, scope tools you got to help diagnose ? you could temporarily repair cable on old sensor and refit to see if code clears which would indicate new sensor faulty/giving out of spec bias voltage . Not uncommon have fault lights remain on with lot of the more low quality brand sensor parts, If we not fussy on brands we use we would have over 50% that still flag fault code or create operation faults due to out of spec signal data . Never overlook new part issues especially on electrical sensors as most brands these days are garbage .

Above post highlights what needs be done and that is diagnose the source of overheating . H6 is not a common one for HG failure and it impossible to make best decisions on how improve situation until you pin down what actually root cause . Don't guess, test . Is easy and cheap test with gas analyser with rad cap removed and from expansion tank, sounds like you can induce overheating so testing during overheating should be pretty easy achieve .

Light contact with rubber seems fine but in terms of lubing slide pins the silicone grease is about best choice in my opinion . I know Granville don't recommend the ceramic grease in caliper slides , I've always used silicone grease . I know a lot of people and mechanics that use ceramic greases or worse on slides without much bother but it not ideal for constant rubber contact and slide pins that slide through rubber all in one bush-&-sealing boots could have reduced life/problems from using it . What the ceramic grease works well at is under pad clips and on ears and piston lip of calliper to pad contact points. The ceramic grease is also good antiseaze to use on likes of glowplugs and exhaust components . Basically if you got the ceramic grease, silicone grease and red rubber grease you got ability handle most more specialist automotive lube scenarios from brakes, exhaust, fuel system and even electrical parts/plugs etc to a competent standard.

Pretty much all we use these days, ceramic brake greases tend get recommended by lot of brake manufacturers these days, not to say the old standards don't work but the specialist greases more versatile within brake use and less messy and from professional stand point more compliant in event of any legal matters . Not saying Granville is best one on market but it easily available in UK to all and at sensible cost, plus it a British company which nice to support when can ...

Find the fault that killing the packs or stop using aftermarket ebay garbage coil packs, OEM coil packs last decades and not a regular known fault item .

brake grease ... https://granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=775

While the right ratio diff will fit from differing model I would make effort source a used XT diff as plenty XT models getting broken and from parts reference the diff part number shows only used in forester so it likely had some minor design differences . You likely find a rear diff on ebay for anything from 80 to 180 quid if keep an eye out for something likely be decent order . they pretty easy swap out, do be sure it diff not wheel bearings or mix of poorly matched tyres. subaru awd likes matching tyres in brand/model and wear, bad tyres = noises and eventually viscous diff faults . Never understand why people want a awd yet will run **** tyres on them ! 🙂

Yeah, cleaning and proper lubing, slide hardware, pad fitment along with decent quality brand part selection is keys to making massive difference and long lasting no come back job . We tend only use Blueprint, textar and apec for standard road car brakes, lot of cheaper end stuff or brands owned by scumbag autofactors like ECP can hinder fitment or give issues in use . A nice brake job is a bit more effort but well worth it ...

^ The older Foresters SF 97-2002 and SG early models 2003-2006 are way better working vehicles. I got 2 SF foresters, both 22 years old and they no bother or expense, Have a 19 year old SG and while okay the SF is clearly far better built . Same era Outbacks very good too, late 90's to early 2000's was some of best built cars ever and the value is great as they can last decades . Suspension bushes/parts pretty cheap on Subaru but you do go through them fast on likes of SH onward model Foresters, the redesigned suspension was no good for durability and parts spec is always declining partly under the disguise of environment and partly penny pinching . New unfortunately is not better, not just subaru or cars, most products are massive change in material quality and design, most diesel subarus already scrapped or had some HUGE repair bills that really alter owners lifestyle, the hybrid vehicles much the same, highly unreliable and all they good at is costing consumers money and creating more waste parts/consumables to try keep the junk working, almost seems engineered to milk your bank account and end up total loss scrap ! Quite simply if you want a good proper built car and low amount of repairs buy a proper tidy older one, newer across all brands is garbage . Is a fair few older lower mileage likely clean SF Foresters kicking around for 1K to 2K range, I picked up a manual one (hard find proper clean manual models) couple months ago as spare winter car for wife & mother, easy drive & super reliable . Want replace the SG with nice clean SF when stumble on right one. All the best for 2022 .

check power and grounds. is anything showing signs of life such as interior lights or clock or hazard lights ? year and spec of outback may help get more targeted suggestions .

while the bearing is pretty easy remove either with hydraulic press or forcing screw and bearing disc and cup sets getting to that stage can be difficult on older cars due to corrosion of brake fittings and suspension bolts. The long lateral bolt that goes through hub and outer lateral links is good example of potential grief as they can get really bad (new oem bolt and bush kit is very cheap though). If your car is pretty rust free or had recent suspension work it likely pretty straight forward, the bearing removal/fitting kits using forcing screw means you can keep hub on the car and save time/money by not needing fully remove hub . It one of those jobs that pretty easy with good range of equipment and has potential be a complete struggle without .

genuine gasket sets are around 35-40 each head . You can get good aftermarket japan gasket sets (STONE for example or perhaps ADL BluePrint) for about half that cost if trying keep final bill sensible . I would allow around 3 to 4 hours labour for a considerate and worthwhile job to be done. Garages who not worked on them before best avoided .

I would not like say what would cost without seeing it but subframe and most rear arms all oem new fitted not going be cheap. Bushes and bolts even in bolt kits all adds up on the bill (although subaru oem bolts and bushes can be sourced at pretty sensible pricing), if rear pretty rusty what the brake lines and exhaust like ? problems with handbrake cable and speed sensor brackets on particularly rusted vehicles can be additional hassle/expense during removal/refitting . You going want 4 wheel alignment at end of replacement work and proper effort rather than a quick-fit toe and go is another chunk of change to the final tally . I'm going guess it likely looks worse than truly is . If you get lucky with proper tidy used subframe complete with arms it will work out very cheap .

level of rust really depends on how vehicle been used/cleaned, I see a few 23 year old foresters that 100% solid and clean underneath, one of which lived on farm for good 15 years but it regularly wash underneath . If yours is a mess then a subframe/arm swap to very good used example is way to go. Brand new subframe possibly around 300 to 400 pound range but by time you add all bolts/washes/nuts/bushes it serious money. Your best bet is buy a dead engine clean forester diesel off of marketplace gumtree ebay etc and take all suspension parts needed and anything else that better/spares and weigh in the rest . (up to around 2014 should be same subframe/setup) Used Subaru Parts Ltd is in collumpton devon so they perhaps useful . First thing do is be 100% sure how far you need/want go, is the subframe like a wet weetabix or is it just bad surface corrosion but still solid .

avoid subaru diesel at all cost and modern diesels in general . If you want bombproof then old is gold and your 4K more than needed . Outback or Forester would be my recommendation, very late 90's to early 2005 being better made and packing benefits of less troublesome expensive and wasteful emission equipment and some benefits on road tax . Outback hard to find manual transmission and the bombproof engine on those is the ez 6 cylinders (the are a marvel) The Forester 2.0 is an amazingly versatile vehicle but boot not massive but still might be enough for you and they great on visibility and manoeuvring better than many tiny hatchbacks, they a brilliant all rounder and can be incredibly low cost run for what can do with one . SG forester up to 2005 can be good buy and you got enough budget buy proper nice one and have money left for any niggles like new set of tyres and some servicing work if needed . Don't be bothered about age, newer isn't more reliable, far from it actually . Main thing is proper good look under rear for rust, subframes and rear suspension can suffer on these . Engines should be a smooth pur and rumble when revved, check all electrics, front window motors can fail but they cheap fix (read the forum) Forester rear self levelling suspension can sag buy again can be fixed fairly easy . Try an view a few local even if not exact model you want as you only get good idea on good vs bad once gained knowledge looking at a lot . If buy carefully could be cheapest most reliable most usable vehicle you owned .

Suspension on those is same design as forester outback and xv . You may find shocks from those models will fit and can use original exiga springs. rears for example are same left and right so good ones start on for a physical fit match . As mentioned above ICP worth calling as probably could source oem, from past experience I pretty sure the shock part numbers on YA4 YA5 exiga are exiga specific but that don't mean won't have indirect part match .

Assume you referring to lower lateral link on the rear and perhaps the trailing link also rusty Used from a breakers local or via eBay would be best cost solution, diesel SH and later SJ is same suspension arms and plenty of them are scrapped (can buy them complete with failed engines for less than 500 quid and plenty dead ones around in devon) . If doing bushes only use oem or top end brand aftermarket . Suspension is one of those areas if buy the wrong brand parts you have more clonks and rattles by your next mot lol . New genuine bushes are not expensive, companies like ICP and subaru parts specialists selling on eBay give you pretty good pricing for original parts. New arms won't be that cheap but used can be and with a bit of effort you should find decent used . If rear end crusty it be worth cleaning it off and getting suspension parts and subframe sprayed with corrosion wax/oil treatment as will save some future big bills and make things look more respectable .

ideal candidate for a used part, likely get one in 2 to 3 days and only be around £100 ish . Why waste perfectly good money and material resources on new when can do your wallet and the world a favour salvaging genuine used parts .

simply read the linked manual ... Resetting PIN code: If you do not have the current PIN, then follow option A. However if you do not have a working Radio Key, then you will have to use option B and obtain the systems PIN code from Subaru (UK). Your dealer can obtain this for you if you can provide proof of ownership and the alarm systems 16-digit serial number. A.Using a working Radio Key: - Arm and then Disarm the system using a working Radio Key. - Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- *17856*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where wxyz is your new PIN code) - Arm the system with the Radio Key - You should now be able to disarm the system using the new PIN code B. Using the current PIN Code (if a working Radio Key is not available): - Arm and then Disarm the system using the current PIN - Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- **abcd*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where abcd is your current PIN code and wxyz your new PIN code) - You should now be able to arm and disarm the system using the new PIN code When using the keypad always observe the following points: - The PIN number should not be entered too quickly or too slowly - when a digit has been pressed the small LED built into the keypad will illuminate briefly as confirmation and only then should the next digit be entered. - If an incorrect digit is pressed or the delay between entering digits exceeds10 seconds, then the LED above the keypad will flash rapidly and the PIN attempt should be abborted and started again after 30 seconds. - Due to the small size of the keypad some users may find a rubber tipped pencil easier to use. DO NOT use the sharp tip of a ball point pen etc, or press excessively hard on the keypad as this will only damage the membrane and cause a digit to remain pressed, causing a continual incorrect PIN. - The keypad allows only THREE PIN attempts and then will "Lock Up" if an incorrect number is entered a third time. This is a security feature to prevent random PIN attempts disarming the system.

yours is a sigma m30 alarm . read the M30 alarm manual linked in my first post . my guess is keyfob faulty, not uncommon have bad button . Ideally want test if it transmitting, mail order keyfob repair services are available for around £30 You can buy keyfobs used off ebay and program them (read manual for programming) Yours should be keyfob built into key, with these you can buy same style used and swap board and program . your keyfob should be like below ! sometimes they get replaced with single button keychain fob . What ever you do don't go to a subaru dealer or you will be missing several hundred quid .... * NOTE while you got one working remote setup a 4 digit password before doing anything else (read manual to see how do it)

denso nissens if want proper decent. nrf not bad if want balance cost a bit . don't buy cheap options as they generally garbage and many times leak straight out the box or fittings snapped off / poor fit .

No that not reasonable . It a 3 hour job on average as they super easy access . Don't be fooled by " it a boxer it hard to do" These cars are very easy work on for most common jobs, far nicer deal with as a mechanic than euro garbage . You mainly get high bills as garage really got minimal experience working on them so you paying for their education hours . Hard say how good part price is as that totally depends on parts brand being supplied . I use all oem idlers, oem tensioner, aisin pump and dayco belt and part price including coolant would be 220 currently . One thing I will highlight is YOU MUST know exactly what part brand being used (on any repair work) and if all idlers/tensioner being replaced, if lower quality parts being used you generally better off not having work done as spending good money to reduce quality is reason so many people have lot of problems as they thrown better quality/original parts in bin . Part quality in aftermarket has never been so poor, you got educate yourself and do some research if want good work and sensible pricing .

No, that not fair, top price on that for japanese parts (mainly oem) would be £450 . They very easy/quick to do on boxer engine, if do water pump it MUST be a top quality part (japan only) which means original or Aisin . You can get all idlers and tensioners oem for sensible money, dayco belts or Aisin are good, avoid likes of Gates kits and and any euro or chinese parts as all you be doing is spending money to reduce reliability/longevity . you probably could go longer due to minimal mileage on current parts but what was done/replaced and what quality of work and parts ! Cheap parts and fitted poorly and not replacing critical idlers makes it a gamble unless check it or know what level of job done last time . I seen lot of issues from garbage timing belt parts & not replacing idler pulleys, water pumps on non turbos tend last couple decades and couple hundred thousand miles as original FHI made pumps are extremely well made as they knew it critical concern in timing belt design .