Greenmamba

Price?

I've got but it's in pdfs, individual folders per section (lights, ABS, ignition...etc). About 52 files, total about 8MB if its any use? PM me if you want them?

Drove up to Canary Wharf, shopping with the mrs. Avoid if you don't want to go broke, fast. Seriously expensive!

Plusgas is OK, better than standard WD40 although WD also make a rust remover spray. I've used Rostek with good effect too but with everything like this, all releaser sprays need pre-treatment for some days - instant results are not going to happen. Have you got access to an impact wrench?

P0420 means Catalyst system efficiency below threshold. Doesn't necessarily mean the cat is bad as there are a number of possible causes including exhaust leaks, bad fuel, misfire, dodgy sensor/s etc. I don't know the chassis code, could have connections to speed sensor. You'll need to figure out if you like the car enough to invest some time and maybe cash figuring out the wrinkles (which any replacement used car could come with anyway).

What sort of thermostat was used? Subarus prefer own-brand.

The key pad inside the fuse box cover is for the alarm.

The MIL is telling you that one or more sensors is out of parameters and for long-term peace of mind, and to cure the fundamental problem, you need to know what codes are stored. If you don't, the error warning will continue to occur. The problem needs resolving at source. Also, MIL tripping is cause of MOT failure.

No idea on Forester, none of my Outbacks have had radio codes.

I assume the heater used to work? Have you closely examined the fine wires on the screen to check for any breaks?

This may help. http://www.obd-codes.com/p2021

Sorry, I'm out of my league on misfires and cam belt timings. Someone else will have to chime in.

Hello and welcome.

First off, I'd clean the engine so you can see any visible oil leaks. Worth cleaning the pcv as well, replace if seems stuck or if the spring seems weak.

Probably means the tranny has torque bind where one of the clutches is not releasing. Solenoid problem, may be improved by doing drain and fills of the transmission fluid, three times over the space of about a week with drives inbetween changes. I'd try that first. If no improvement, either live with it; keep it 2wd; or get someone experienced in autos to have a look. Root cause is likely history of running mis-matched tyres.

There should, in the engine bay fuse box be a spare slot "FWD" or similar - if you insert a fuse (light may come up on dashboard marked FWD) in that slot, doesn't matter what fuse rating, that converts the car to front wheel drive only, and the problem goes away, that may indicate what's known as torque bind. May be worth trying.

OK. Have you checked transmission fluid level/looks/smell and has the fluid ever been changed? Likewise, has the front diff fluid level been checked?

Auto or manual? All tyres same size/wear?

I believe the multi layer steel/Turbo gaskets are recommended.

The wheel bearing you had replaced could be one problem. The bearings have a tone ring which communicates with the sensor mounted on the hub and measures rotations etc, used in cruise control etc. If a bearing used doesn't send readable signals this could trip codes and disable cruise.

Howdy and welcome

Hoping I can contribute a bit, I picked up the following from another site I follow (tribute to Cardoc). Whether any of it works for you, no idea but there you are. Make of it what you will. This code simply means that somewhere in the chain of events that controls the overall performance of the engine there is a problem and you have to find it.List of possibilities:Fuel quality (low quality fuel a/k/a no-name petrol)Fuel quantity (filter or pump issue)ignition issues (plugs, wires, coils injector flow)temperature control (too high or too low)vacuum leaksexhaust leaks (not only an annoying noise, but it effects proper value reporting to the ECM by the AF and O2 sensors)poor amperage conductivity (i.e. battery or cabling)Sensor issues can be:MAF (Mass Air Flow Meter)MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure)ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature)AF (Air/Fuel ratio a.k.a. Front O2 which can be a single bank 1 for 4 cyl)O2 (This is the actual O2 behind the CAT that lets the computer know how the CAT is functioning) Good luck anyway!!

Mr B - thanks, appreciated. Much more affordable than what I've managed to source so far. I'll ping them my reg.

Thanks, appreciated. I was hoping for something a little less costly as the whole car only cost about 3x what these pipes would cost! It may come to that in the end though.

My 2006 OB exhaust is blowing at the 'y' joint just before the last silencers. Anyone able to recommend a reliable garage or welder to repair, generally nearby Maidstone Kent? I've costed price of OEM parts (centre pipe and silencers, both would need replacing cause the flanges are shot and won't take unbolting) - comes to ridiculous £1100 plus fitting. Thanks