Scoobyghost

Couldn't have chucked the family pet at the windscreen and then claimed for a replacement?

Send the dealer to a Subaru owners club forum or specialist of his choice to ask if they should be knocking 😂😂

No suspension should ever knock on any car. Bad form Dealers that make a sale then couldn't care less.

Do they just fit over the window? Like a wind the window down slot them in then pinch the window back up kinda deal?

Consider doing the water pump at the same time. You'll probably be looking at doing all tensioners and pulleys at that mileage.

I agree with Geoff. Fully synthetic all the way.

Welcome to the club. Do you know when the cambelt was last changed? The sport specials look quite tasty. Does it still have the yellow seats?

10w40 fully synthetic for me. Helix is a middle brand. Miller's cfs is the good stuff. Do love an oil debate.

Looks really good.

You don't have a fuel light when the tank is empty?

You could try some of the "specialist" insurers. I'm with Kieth Micheal's, there flux who always seem competitive. What price were you expecting or hoping to pay? I'm not sure on black box companies. Probably best to google for them. A tracker will help to drop the price a bit and a good certificated alarm system.

Call the garage and they should be able to tell you what went in. You need the plug code not just the name of the brand.

Do you know if the plugs were changed like for like?

I think we all struggle to find that thread, I know i did the first few times. Did you follow all steps of the reset. Driving about for a minute with the plugs connected?

The guide does have the description of how to reset the codes. It seems convoluted but it does work. If not, there is a "remove battery terminal" way of resetting codes.

Yeah mine is mapped with ecutek. Quite confusing how they all overlap. I've always tried to find a Bluetooth set up like the newage can have but there's so much conflicting info suggesting all classics can't utilise a dongle/tablet.

V5 and V6 have the same self code check function.

Services are every 3k with Miller's oil. I appreciate your opinion and no-one has an X-ray bearing scanner nor will there be many early warning signs but the car is in perfect health so I have no concern the engine is nearly going to throw it's bearings. I do consider myself end of life care though [emoji23] [emoji23]

Sounds about the going rate. Issue is the first takes 3 days to do 120. You take a lot less [emoji23] [emoji23] It pains me to suggest it but have you looked at black box insurers? You'd have to drive like a very nice boy and probably be limited on mileage but you'd be insured and may be cheaper. All changes at 25 though

For the cheap cost of them they are worth doing. You can go crazy and spend £200 on a fancy carbonfiber one. I paid £36 Inc delivery for a front and rear set. Just your standard eBay job and it does make a difference. As most mods, they're best coupled with others to increase the benefit so a decent set of ally droplinks with polybushes and possibly larger anti roll bars and you will really notice the difference.

Cost about £60 using Tesco momentum fuel from "light on" empty to full.

OK, I'm not so clued up on that version but a lot of the guys use a hosting site first like photobucket

Old spark plugs, weak engine mounts, dodgy sensor. Before running down the more expensive route, try a tank of high octane fuel through the car and you'll see an improvement all round. Even if the knock sensor is slightly lose it will rattle and "detect knock" quite a simple sensor really.

Welcome to the club. That's a good question to start with. [emoji12] Do you use tapatalk or the browser version of the site?

That would be the first thing to change. Using a higher octane fuel ideally 99 will reduce knock/detonation which means the sensor won't be telling the ecu to ret.ard(avoiding swear filter) the timing.