Jay762
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Everything posted by Jay762
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Hi I used Motul Gear 300 75W-90 from Opie oils https://www.opieoils.co.uk/f/100400/21338/2008/axle-drive.aspx Dont forget the discount code - SUBOC
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will have to check that on mine - know it has not got back to the loom itself as I have done some weeding on that but the sensors i will check
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Welcome back buddy 🙂
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Wotcha and welcome - feel free to get stuck in, post photos etc all friendly on here
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Useful post - thanks and gives a benchmark, Ill complete the same process when mine is back together as I have some additional security and electronics in place to povide a comparison
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Wow great colour - dont see too many of those. The gearbox is a limiting factor as is the engine - closed deck block or not. I wont quote figures as I am not as familiar with the classics as others on the forum are ( @Tidgy@savage bulldogs ) you can get reinforcing plates for the gearbox though and cross hatching on the block will tell you if it is a CDB or not. In order to do do the map though check your ECU to see if it is standard, not ESL modified or aftermarket Alcatex etc otherwise you will not be able to map. So I would check that first before turbos, injectors, clutch and the rest. Savage has a thread going that started in the same way your post has..... Plenty of information in there, food for thought etc including an Arashi turbo unit which could be an alternative to the standard TD options?
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Pulled the dash apart on the STi to trace an unknown wire that may or may not connect to the ECU, then spent the day rerouting and tidying the installs for Toucan unit, tracker and stereo
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Coming along nicely - I see you have a tube of copper slip there, after using that for years with brakes and high temps making it run everywhere and stain badly I switched to the mechanic friendly Molyslip Ferroslip product
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fuse, relay and wire that will handle 30amps, use your original horn 12v feed to activate the relay
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this is for the 4 speed auto I have - dont know if the dipstick has similar markings??
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I would avoid a vent to atmosphere option as it can throw the fueling out making the running not great. I have a forge recirc option on mine - its shiney and does the job
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sage advice there - stripped a few threads in my time also 😉
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took delivery of some Angelwax products so got stuck in - really pleased with results, have finally managed to get a swirl free bonnet - just rest of car to do now... Before - obviously After Swirl free
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Sorted the 12v fuel pump line, experience has shown cutting into bulkhead seals will let in water plus I wasn't happy with the blade fuse and electrical tape setup. Before Drilled bulkhead and sealed using a grommet then ran the line through a protective shroud to the cars fuse panel, sealed the cut with epoxy resin. Nice hole under the fuse panel for routing the lines After checking the fuse panel for blanks I decided to use the redundant air pump components, the 60amp fuse is the right size but the blades used are bigger than your standard stuff I have in the garage so used the OEM Subaru ones Lines in place Connection to battery
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Wotcha and welcome - not heard of that model, nice example 👍
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Quite an emotional subject / content but gets my foot a tapping
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Angelwax is my brand of choice for polishes and waxes, have had ok results with Meguiars compound but the Angelwax Enigma AIO is an improvement on that. Just bought some bilt hamber clay bars to try (Made in UK) cheaper than Angelwax and Meguiars options
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Wotcha and welcome - clean looking motor there, have you kept it standard or made any mods apart from the spoiler?
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Coming along nicely 👍
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What he said 👍
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Just posted facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/subaru.impreza.buy.sell.uk/permalink/2555954864622107/?sale_post_id=2555954864622107&rt=11
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Think a couple of forum members have done this before Just keep the spray light as blocking the holes between the fins will interupt air flow a little - however you could argue teh same for an IC with damaged fins 😋
