Tidgy

Could be just a high biting point or could be a worn clutch. Keep an eye on fluid levels, especially oil, i check mine every 200 miles or so.

If it clears when it warms up then i wouldn't worry to much. Just keep an eye on your fluid levels and if there ok then your fine

question is are we nasty people and start posting pictures and for sale links???? hahaha

yeah, does happen. dyno will show what its running though. Also a compression test would be a good idea for piece of mind

97ron rat ****

i last 2 weeks before looking for one hahaha

has it got a certificate with it? only real way to check is check all the parts are installed and check the ecu has been done on a dyno.

Excuse for a drive though :D

thats an !Removed!

99 ron all the way. Vpower or tesco 99 only.

Fully synthetic is what you want on a turbo'd car. 5/4- 1-/40 seem to be the preferred weight depending on who you ask. Cheapest place i find to be opie oils. I'd change yours to fully synthetic when you do the next change james

Oil and filter, if you saw how quickly the oil went off you'd understand. You don't want to be draining it when its gone completely black by that point its already mullered

Yea i loved mine, just a bit boring compared to the scoob,

np, enjoy it :D

Could be as simple as the ECU throwing a wobbly or a duff sensor, get it to a specialist to get it checked out. Try an drive it as little as possible before its looked at and keep it off boost and under 3k RPM

99 only, V power or Tesco 99. Better than the engine detting its **** off and shatting itself ;) Few good things for owning a turbo, 1. 99 ron fuel only (if you have to put lower in, put as little as you can get away with and make sure you stay off the loud pedal and fuel tank go as low as you can before filling it back to the brim with the good stuff, bear in mind more thats left in it the more the good stuff will be watered down) 2. Oil changes every 3k 3. They should drive smoothly, if its running lumpy don't try to drive through it. Get it looked at and drive it as little as possible before being looked at. 4. Keep on top of servicing. 5. Find a decent specialist, stay away from dealers for servicing and work, Even Subaru UK admit the UK specialists are a level above the knowledge even they have about them. 6. if you have mods done, use a reputable place and my advice is get it all done by them and parts from them. If something goes wrong and you have bought parts from all over you could end up in an argument about who's fault it is and you end up out of pocket with a broken car.

Sounds like an M3 lol

ECU is struggling to cope with the setup, Aftermarket ecu would be the best way to go (as you say syvecs). My old hawk struggled (forged 2.5 on an sc46+ with ecutek map). Didn't like idling smoothly when coming to a stop either cos of the mass of the turbo. Check out the fueling before 4500 and the way it plummets then spikes before settling, The T is a 450bhp turbo at 1.6 bar, so your bound to get a lower result at 1.3. I'm assuming its still running the MAF? Ecu wasn't designed to run that high boost or that much power, my advice bite the bullet and syvecs it. Different cars with different parts will get different results, but on low boost (as above graph) Basic spec, (Was held back cos of the top mount), but was single AVCS heads, standard headers, full decat and decat up pipe, sti top mount, sti inlet manifold, 400L fuel pump, 800cc (i think) and SC46+ mapped on Ecutek by pat Herborn. My current 2.5 is running less power, but on syvecs, you can see ont he graph how much smoother it is,

Simple answer get your current engine rebuilt by a reputable specialist.

Got a boost AFR graph?

Untill yesterday we had a cat, porthos, and a rabbit, mikey. Unfortunately Mikey had to be put to sleep yesterday so me and the mrs are totally gutted about it :(

Hoping this link works, chap from poland over for some work has his car stolen overnight. https://www.facebook.com/scoobyclinic.chesterfield/?fref=nf top post on the FB page

Thats the map rather than the hardware. Typically aftermarket ecu's are technicly far more capable than factory units. Why people replace them, even R8 and lambo's have them replaced

Hinteresting, wonder how aftermarket differ

Who told you that?