Tidgy

50 seconds sounds a long time, mine lasts about 5-10 seconds in position 2 before turning key to ignition

I'd say leave it another 500 miles nd then oil change at 1000 then let her rip. (advise running in on a fresh rebuilt (so new engine) is 500miles on crap mineral oil and no boost (waste gate pressure), then 500 on semi synthetic (again at waste gate pressure), then at 1000 fully synthetic and full boost.

no bother, never easy when you don't know how to take written stuff is it, i'm the same from time to time.

It may be the setup is different over there, but if it increase the cooling effectiveness aka larger cooler then it will help.

haha thought you'd like that :D

i think you have totaly missed the point. were not saying change the rad, were saying add an oil cooler.

your learning well young padawank,,,,,,,,, hahahaha

i expected a reply like that from gambit, not from you, tut tut hahahahahaha

Dunno if its just the way the pic looks but looks pretty long lol

Auto/manual doesnt make any difference, besides were talking about a front mounted oil cooler as shown in the pic. Will be far more effective at keep oil temps regulated than changing the rad.

if SRR is near enough then pop down. for dyno runs their ok.

basic process is take car to the right gear, then let it run down to near idle. At that point load is applied via the rollers to the car and then the pull happens.

Run will start at prob 1700rpm on all dyno's, just never shown on the graph cos its pointless on a turbo car.

barometric pressure. affects the conversion factor of the dyno. Dyno measures power at the wheels then calculates back to give a fly wheel figure.

I'm not even gonna say who my guess is lol

Not sure whos down that way tbh. Do you know who mapped it? Shouldn't look like a roller coaster and while fueling is ok the boost is doing strange things as well, typically it will peak then drop off up the rev range as it runs out of pull, not rise up the rev range. Although ignore the fueling and spool (was when my engine was fooked), see how the turbo peaks then slowly drops off, thats what i would expect to see

One figure is at the fly 294, one at the wheels 248. However looks like whoever ran it doesn't have a clue what they are doing so could be way out. First off it should be in shoot_44 mode on the dyno, not 4f, also its been run in gear 4 where as a wrx 5 speed should be 3rd. (unless they put the info in wrong). My advice, take it somewhere that knows how to operate a dyno properly and get it rerun.

As above, have to get it mapped for crap fuel :( still not ideal :(

No no no. Stay with v power or tesco 99. Don't risk your engine.

lol, have to say i love dump valves, although not very keen on chirpy blow off valves

looking good

Ah get to the end and it says minimum 99 ron on that one

Dunno, all the quotes i could find direct from shell on the threads say its 99 :S

Shell are still saying its 99ron, there was a load of questions about it raised (mainly on the gtr forums iirc) about it about 12-18 months ago. but word came back nitro+ is indeed 99 ron. Vpowers predecessor was optimax and that was 98ron, you thinking of that?

Can retrofit if you want plus eurospec have them as some countrys have to have by law them so i understand.