Tidgy

about as good as you will get for a budget option. just watch out for cheap ebay copys

suspect it was a cat B, car was bought and parts put into a new shell. aka, its not an RB5

Watch out people, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-SPECIAL-EDITION-RB5-WRX-STI-STUNNING-WITH-FRESH-PAINT-amp-LOW-MILES-/162283306244?rmvSB=true&clk_rvr_id=1127618415962&nma=true&si=8yLs8O44OjZ32T6RYLim7E2vH%2FU%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 then http://www.rb5oc.co.uk/gallery/rb5-268.asp holy badgers ring piece

you don't have to run turbos at full power.

i'd seriously be temped by a toucan if it wasn't so !Removed! expensive

you havn't even read it have you. Go and read it then come back.

Just to add, you can watch a whole bottom end build here. Guess he defies the laws of physics as well considering he puts all 4 pistons in after assembling the block lol Miky taking aside, I'm not sure where your info is coming from kershaw but its way off the mark :S The whole point is by not splitting the block you save time and cost. This can only be done before failure. Once failure occurs then you need to pull it and split the block to see whats going on. Also you arn't having to replace damaged parts. If you think they don;t know what there doing then how have they been able to produce these, Plus god knows how many road engines, cars etc.

And i'd guess you'd know more about it than they would? i didn't realise you had built hundreds of engines over 20 years,,,, hahaha

I think you need to go an understand what is meant by the term. Unless you think 'drop in' is a make lmao.

http://scoobyclinic.com/performancetuning.htm 'The process starts starts with the engine out, strip down, asses and report, if 400 BHP is the figure we are after it is a lot cheaper than 450 BHP as we don’t have to strip the bottom end, just heads off, new forged drop in pistons and back together using ARP head studs, and all new gaskets. Cost wise approx £2K + vat to do this. If 450 BHP is the ask then we have to go further and strip the whole engine adding con rods and new bearings at the same time, add £1500.00 + vat to the £2K.' It approx figures but costs escalate when there is damage, do it before and its no where near as costly. As far as costs you do realise i have only just had mine rebuilt so well aware of what they are?

Bonus, Alyns the main guy there. was talking to him last week in fact.

http://asperformance.com/ isn't a million miles from newcastle, I'm not sure if they do general service work, but well worth a call to find out or get a recommended local place, Alyns a decent guy

never heard of them tbh

know the name of the place?

hmm, you know how you can get bhp gauges on some cars? i wonder if you can get a bdp gauge?

lol you guys. as above oil temp, oil pressure and boost pressure.

depends how far you wanna go. Basic drop in piston, head studs and gaskets is about £2000+vat, Fully forged ready for 450bhp is about £3500+vat. Cost once failed depends on damage, which could basically mean a whole new engine and prob double the price.

have you got a specialist to check it out and put it on a dyno for you yet?

It's pot luck whether they go or not. mapped, unmapped, moded, unmoded etc etc. Options are sell it, live with it and worry about it if you need to or pay to have engine sorted now. They don't all fail though, it's just a higher rate of failure than other cars.

Sc36, md321 (not sure which version you need for that power). SC36 will pap all over all of those turbos mentioned for spool and peak but wont bea cheap because you will prob have to buy new as second hand ones are rare as hens teeth

hahaha

doh! bad news. Better news for me, parts I have been waiting for for two weeks have finaly landed in the UK and at the supplier, only hicup is he has 15 pallets to go through to find em before he can send them to clinic. Hopefully means week tomorrow i'll get the car back :) Assuming, touch wood (pats head), the weather holds off, dont think mapping a hopefully 400bhp type R is a good idea in snow and Ice, even if it is only a road test after dyno map lol

what a 'proper' job that was,,,,, proper bodge it and scarper job hahaha

recommended by specialists/tuners, oils one of those things that has a massive influence on an engine and isn't mega expensive to change. Even subaru UK admit the tuners know more than them lol

As above, varying load and not sat at same revs on motorway etc, also use engine braking to help bed the rings in, find a nice long hill and just let it coast down the hill is good for that. As far as going from nothing at 1000 to all, no problem with it. by that time the rings will be bedded in and seals will be seated fine. Both my engine builds have had the same treatment, scoobyclinic have builds hundreds if not thousands of engines and always used the same method :) Can't map the car properly without taking it to full bost repeatedly