Tidgy

Similar sort of power to a STI, will need fuel pump and a map

not got a hawk box on it unfortunately. end at 2004 non dccd on the 6 speeds uk

JDM is shorter than UK yeah. But ratios are more about where it delivers power

Depends on what 6 speed and what 5 speed.

The differing ratios work better on different engines depending on gear change points and so on, I onyl had this explained to me the other week when i was looking at what ratios to go with, i'll try to explain but i may be waffling haha. To start with you need to look at the differences with the engines, 2.0 is a more revy engine, so typically nothing happens till 4-4.5k rpm and pulls up to 7.5k on a jdm sti, so its typically a slower spooling setup and pulls harder higher up the rev range. 2.5 prefers to have low down load and produces alot more torque, so tends to pick up from 3-3.5k (varys depending on setup of course) but once you hit 6.5k it tends to drop off the power band. The extra torque the 2.5 produces can mean if the ratios are too short, the turbo will never make full boost because the engine is pushing hard enough so that the turbo can't fully spool before it runs out of revs. aka you end up with 3rd gear pulling harder than 2nd gear. A shorter ratio means your loading it at higher revs so suits a 2.0, where as a longer ratio will building load lower down the rev range and suit a 2.5. So that said the choices i had were, 1, UK Hawk 6 speed DCCD, ratios designed to work on a 2.5 2. JDM 6 speed gearkit DCCD, ratios designed to work on a 2.0 Given i'm running 2.5 and its already kicking out 380ftlb at 3.5k on the dyno (road is quicker spooling than on a dyno), that figure is only going to go up with the boost increase, so short ratio gears won't be as critical because i will be changing gear more than on power if they are too short hahaha. Hope that makes sense lol

Haha :D hope its an enjoyable read :) Type r's already have DCCD, so its just a like for like swap basicly. 6 speeds come with or without DCCD, hawk box has the right ratios (bear in mind i;ve gone from 2.0 to 2.5) and retains the DCCD (which i wanted to do). I think it got chucked on the scrap pile up at clinic im afraid. I can ask if they have any though, fairly frequently get duff turbos in

they do more than one i bet. What was the old ear bleeder called, supperdragger or summit like that?

haha, i still love mine :D

yeah that's whats on back order. Already on way so its just a case of how long till they get here

haha yeah. Good to meet you on sat dude, glad managed to figure out best route to go with yours. Need to a get a project thread going.

Wouldn't take much movement to feel a wobble

So bad news is there's a bit of a delay :( box is ready to go, well its actually in the car but that's as far as it has got, drive shaft's etc aren't connected yet. Parts are being a pain. Seem like its only torretto that can get overnight parts from Japan :( 5 speed and 6 speed use different design drive shafts (male vs female) so you have to use a spline to convert one to the other. Unfortunately that's whats being waited on. Parts are on back order and not due in till this coming week at the earliest :( New clutch is in (twin plate competition clutch) and that's as far as its got which is a bit of an !Removed!. But this is sat waiting ready to be fitted :)

Isn't hks system ear bleeding loud?

what ya done to it?

lmao :D i dont know how good the paddel shift on them is, the one on the M3 was a tad laggy (just like a typical auto) till you put it in sport mode and cranked it to setting 6 hahaha

forrester seems to have more toys, plus im not sure how good the lego is in the snow by comparison

So, i posted a while back the volvo bust on me again. That's now fixed and touch wood (pats head), should keep going for a while (prob 12 months at most till i replace it). So it got me thinking. What next? I kinda have specific requirments, 1. Comfortable 2. enough power to sit on the motorway 3. cruise control 4. if seats are leather then they must be heated (i use the excuse of the mrs wont let me if not, but the truth is i dont want a cold **** on leather hahaha) 5. prefer AWD or FWD sinc eit will be all year round 6. reliable 7. mpg isn't that critical, i do about 40 miles a day which isn't much, 10k even if i did that every working day of every week in the year, which I don't. 8. cheap rat **** fuel So taking that into account i came up with this as a car to find when the time is right, http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201610178866695?radius=1500&maximum-mileage=80000&model=FORESTER&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&postcode=de59tu&make=SUBARU&advertising-location=at_cars&sort=price-asc&page=1 Always liked em, but never sat down and thought about it logically (always thought of the STI instead but then would need to worry about 99ron and the 2.5 issues). 2.0 non turbo engine which is pretty bomb proof. Well built and foresters are known for taking a pounding, plus being great in winter. Anyone else have any thoughts? other possibilities., i did ponder on a freelander 2 in another thread but they seem to suffer reliability and not cheap.

Gonna work out pricey i would have thought once you add on import tax and price of the pound etc. plus any issues an dyour gonna have a nightmare cos its was bought in the states Miltek do one now as well.

get the front suspension checked out, maybe play in a bush somewhere causing it then.

may have missed it, but have you had the tracking/alignment checked?

and then not to be out done, http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201602060784861?onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&price-to=10000&model=IMPREZA&radius=1500&price-from=8000&postcode=de59tu&advertising-location=at_cars&make=SUBARU&sort=price-asc&page=6

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201610229024977?onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&radius=1500&advertising-location=at_cars&sort=price-asc&model=IMPREZA&postcode=de59tu&price-from=8000&price-to=10000&make=SUBARU&page=2 wtf :o

Just heard a box has arrived that looks to be the missing parts for mine :d so i warn you all now, im back in kid at christmas mode hahaha

yeah they are matey, if you read the post before i edited re read, had it in me brain it was a 2.5 lol

Opps, just realised it's a 2.0 not a 2.5. first port of call is find out how bad the damage is to the block, if its scrap then onto deciding what route you wanna go. Even if the block is fine you will obviously need pistons and rods may as well be done. It's all gonna be very dependant on budget