Tidgy

welcome, pretty rare beast tbh. Option could maybe to get one converted? really depend on budget

need to find where the fault is.

as above, alternators are usually pretty bomb proof.

haha, you can get a 2.7 kit as well :D

welcome

plenty of friendly MOT place around ;)

snowed over night and settled but now only odd flake in the air and alot of the settled snow has melted

Bit of a novel upcoming response but hope the reason makes sense. Also bear in mind while so of this is fact, alot of the 'better' options are personal preference and there is no right or wrong answer. whp is typicly US value and is major over eged. Fly wheel BHP is the typical measure, at the road you loose roughly 23-25% (very rough figure, alot of things affect it condition of gearbox, oil thickness in the gearbox, any loses through the diffs etc etc) so 550bhp at the wheels will be 700bhp at the fly based on a 25% as an easy figure. What the stock engine will do is very dependant on where the starting point is. A jdm is 2.0 and has proper forged pistons so will prob do 450 with bolt on's. 6 speed box has the synchro weakness as you say, but typicly not an issue. But there's also more to it than that. Car use has a big difference to how you would achieve it. A race car will be belt and brace, possibly Linered closed decked etc etc masive list of supporting mods, coolers, etc etc mega overspeced and then run at lower power to try to retain reliability. Most top race cars, eg gobstopper, have a refresh after every event and can still fail. They typically run at high revs and high boost so generate alot of heat and wear quickly. A road car is a very different kettle of fish. You need to look at matching gearing and engine. If they mismatch you could find the ratios mean the turbo can;t spool up before your changing gear (i had this issue on mine when i was running a 2,5 on short ratio 5 speed box, the torque the engine was producing meant the turbo couldn't keep up so the car pulled harder in 3rd and 4th than it did in second) For a road car there is a phrase, 'there's no replacement for displacement'. So to answer your question, 450bhp at the fly is a good figure for the road. A 2.5 is my personal preference (why i went that route), they produce considerably more torque than a 2.0 so have power lower down the revs. EG 2.5 400bhp/450fltb, 2.0 400bhp/350ftlb or a mix there of. I'm running 398bhp/465ftlb. Combined with the right ratios (im on a uk hawk DCCD box) they are fantasic on the road. So let say you go for 450bhp on a 2,5. A reliable 450 which is the key to it Your gonna be looking £4.5-5k for a built 2.5, forged piston, rods, head gaskets, acl race bearings, arp headstuds. (possible additional if heads need rebuilding). Then you need to look at what else you need to get there, it will only perform as well as the weakest part, Option to closed deck the block £500 Turbo £2k Front mount £2k Injectors £400 Fuel pump £200 Inlet pipe £250 Decat £600 syvecs (ECU struggles to cope at this level) and other options are available, but IMO not as good, £2500 inc installation and mapping Clutch £1000 fuel pressure reg £250 3 port boost solenoide £100 4bar map sensor £200 £13,000 then add in all sort of ancillarys that are advisable to do, oil and filter, water pump, oil pump, cambelt and tensioners etc etc and your prob up to £14k give or take. works out alot of money when you look at whats involved. Pick up your chin now lol Can you get there cheaper? yes you can, will it last as long and be as reliable? 9 times out of 10 nope.

Wondering if there is a way to swap the order or auto go to last post when you click a post in the latest posts list? Is there a setting int he user panel im missing that does it?

welcome.

haha no probs. Basicly he was saying pedders stuff was crap on the thread, but then it turned out he got the wrong shocks from the supplier so made himself/supplier look very stupid.

yeah pedders is decent enough kit, just need to make sure its the right fitment. Remember a while back where they got a kicking on SN only to find out the person had been given the wrong ones by the supplier and they wern't suitable for his car and was clearly shown on pedders website. Talk about egg on face.

haha, was a link to someone looking at buying on SN

Ah thought it said forged pistons, but that was another one i was looking at hahaha

welcome

oo ooo what do i win?

2.0's do fail but i agree substantially less than 2.5. As far as engine costs its not far off for a proper rebuild, assuming it has actually had the forged pistons put in, full bottom end and head rebuild. just depends on what exactly was done. It's very easy to rack up big costs if lots of parts are junk, been there done that lol

Yep, UK/euro hawks wrx and sti are 2.5. the one linked will have had ringland failure, mentions overbore which will be because of liner damage when the ringland failed. As said, 2.5 out the box is a big of a dog, can be nice and sweet all its ife or one day just jumps up and bites you. Headgaskets and ring lands are the biggest problems. That said built it right and its a cracking engine for road use. Standard block will do 450bhp without loosing reliability, closed deck convert it and your up to a reliable 550bhp. but by the time you get that far your talking mega bucks to build and in supporting mods. When the 2.0 wore out in my type R i;ve had a closed deck 2.5 put in it and boy does it go well :D

hahah yeah, although to be fair they can fail at any milage even well looked after, tis only as strong as it's weakest part ;)

Yeah its a bodge job 2 door. Daft thing is for the money he spent having it converted he could have bought a proper type R. To be fair i've seen worse hatchet jobs, although what its like up close you'll only find out when you see it.

top mount looks different to KW and isnt HKS coilover gold? HDS is green. D2 maybe?

depends how far you wanna go, top mount will be at its limit if you do much more so your looking at front mount, then maf becomes an issue so wanna look at going aftermarket ecu (syvecs is by far the best but not cheap), then you have injectors, fuel pump etc etc SC36 or SC38 will be a good step up, or an sc42 if you wanna break the 400 mark, bearing in mind above.

The look, the sound, how it drives, the power (bear in mind i'm not running standard power anymore haha)

Welcome, i wouldn't bother trying to improve performance. Subarus derive their power from turbo chargers so will never be that quick. Will handle well and stick to the road well, just enjoy then in a few yeas upgrade to an sti :)

cool :D enjoy :)