Tidgy

PVD's facebook page now saying they have closed their doors and no longer trading. Not surprised, know a few folks who are gonna be seriously out of pocket :(

not sure what a stage 2 map is tbh. a remap is a remap

Gonna need a rebuild and alot of money spent for that so fuel pump will prob be the cheapest thing you;d have to buy. Also prob into swirl pot setup at that point anyway. If your happy with what you have leave it be. Can always keep the pump as a spare, although i'd sell it and buy one later if i needed one

So i finally bought it. I've been spending a fortune in the auction lol, although to be fair saved ten time what i have spent. Bently GT3 for 50k, ferrari california for 28k (240k list price), Audi Group b rally car for 40k (375k list price), 22b for 20k (110k list price) etc etc Just spend an hour sat there bidding on any car i take the fancy of. Some cars seem to be harder to get than others, bidded on about 10 mclaren 650's and not won one yet.

ah right, if you dont have any plans to go higher power later then just sell it on. If it aint broke, dont fix it ;)

It's aftermarket so could be anything. I wouldn't play with it till you find out what it is incase its changing something and you don't realise it. Do you know if its connected underneath?

255 would be plenty then. I'm on a walbrough 400 and not even close to maxing it out

400's goes straight in and i can't imagine you'd need bigger than that. If you do i would suggest swirl pot setup anyway

The real question is how deep are your pockets? your prob looking at 15k as a minimum to get it high 400's. people will say that's silly money, you can get it cheaper etc etc, but you find cheap tends to mean compromising and then reliability becomes an issue. List of parts soon adds up, Block (closed deck 2,5 would be my choice), Crank, Pistons, rods, heads, Turbo, ECU, injectors, fuel pump, map sensor, boost solenoid, Gearbox, Diffs, cooling (oil cooler), induction, intercooler, brakes etc etc etc You need to look at everything

unlikley it would be the pill mentioned above. Check all the leads and pipes are connected. going on from that could be a sensor fault

Before you go spending anything, need more info. Has it got mods, has anything changed to cause an issue or was it just fine one day then not the next?

welcome, enjoy :)

Welcome

hahaha cheers :D you built yours yet?

iirc 0.7mm but will need someone to confirm that

mostly useless knowledge hahaha always gap them.

NGk7's. assuming leads and coils are in good condition be fine as is

Hahaha yeah good plan, just dont tell her the cost of the upgrades,,,, hahaha

about 2k overpriced, very strong money

I went form uprated pads, disks and lines all round, to copies of AP 6 pots and the difference was massive on a classic. Then went back to standard setup on a hawk and found it woefull, then to an AP 4 330mm setup on my type R and they are by far the best brakes i have ever had.

:D

Problem with the 5 speed is its weak, 350bhp and if you don't drive it with some mechanical sympathy it will shat itself. Can get uprated 5 speeds (PPG, Albins etc) but they are typically 3k + so more than the cost of a 6 speed conversion. 17's will handle and ride better than 18's. Standard caliper is pretty weedy so your best bet is fit a 330mm kit which fit underneath 17's, D2 or similar is a nice cheap upgrade or 330mm 4 or 6 pot Ap's are the daddy. Brembo of an sti are a funny offset so wont fit under alot of wheels. Also braided lines and decent fluid.

Wouldn't hurt to replace it anyway given its ten years + old, walbro 255 will be fine for what your talking about.

5th gear synchro can be done without splitting the box, so depends what route you wanna go

Their simplifying it, i wonder if they will just drop all cars to £140 in a few years to make it really easy.