Scooby Pete

The fact they had to lift the engine to change the plugs show they know little about Scoobs. Any competent professional mechanic who knows scoobs would know, all you need to do is remove the washer tank and the air box to get access to the plugs. Ok it's a bit fiddliy but it's a lot less work than lifting the engine. In Future I'd steer :) well clear of them if were you.

A cheaper option is to go for the NGK PFR7B cost around £45-£50 a set rather than £40 each. Gap to .7mm I had a similar issue on my classic and it was the coil packs. The plastic part inside the rubber bit had degraded and crumbled. You can get 2nd hand coils from ebay for around £40 each or £90 a set. Personally I would go to a reputable breaker like Pete at South East Imprezas 07891129485, I've used him in the past and he does a lot of business with my local club members. I would take your coil packs off the plugs and check them for damage, replace any that are and replace the plugs anyway. Well worth the cost and effort to do them all at the same time.

The kit is £100 and you can choose what type of finish you want. http://mydipkit.co.uk/new-designs-available/ they do a cheeta print in the sates no reason why they couldn't get the same pattern here. Prob need to buy multiple sheets of pattern to do all 4 wheels.

Pommy I have some nice shiny new ones you can have for £20 inc PnP

I had this problem at Brands on a track day, got there and couldn't get the locking nut off as the key was mangeld. Everyone in the pits had a go and we even drove round a few of the local garages trying to get it off, no joy. When I got home I took it to a mates garage and they got it off with a combination of a cold chisle and the Irwin grip nut. Luckily the wheel was ok as it had a dished centre rather than a recess. Good luck with yours.

contact the makers of the lock nuts, they should be able to provide a key. is there any paperwork for the lock nuts with the cars bumph? If not you may be able to get a Irwin grip nut on it to get it off. http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pieces/96028

Looking good. Depends on what you want noise wise, a full decat is loud, and is a deeper sound. Also give you pops and bangs with occasional flames on over run. Also needs a friendly MOT tester to pass. Never had a sports cat my self so can't give an opinion on one. If you want to the decat route Scoobyworlds vortex range is good value for money. Or you can splash out on HKS super dagger or the Blitz Nur spec. Loads of stuff in between Milltec, Haywood and Scott, Revolution, Scorpion etc.

That looks so much better :) great job.

Post a pic or link of what you are looking at. Tbh your prob better of posting in the Impreza club rather than new members, that's more for these kind of questions and you'll get more responses.

The exhaust is 3 sections, Down pipe, centre pipe and back box. One the standard system both down pipe and centre pipe have cats. In a cat back this is normally a straight through centre pipe and a larger bore back box. Look under the car and when looking at the centre pipe it should be a straight through and not have a bulge for the cat. A decat down pipe will fit regardless of the centre pipe having a cat or not. Just make sure it's the correct bore as you can ger 2.5 and 3" bore. Sorry if teaching granny to suck eggs :)

Which they did the engine covers for the Impreza. That looks the dogs!

Bolts straight on, be aware though with both cats off you will fail the MOT, unless you have a friendly tester you will need to put the cat down pipe on to pass.

Any news on the logo?

Spark plugs = worst DIY job on the car. It's not really that hard to do, just extremely tight and awkward. Very easy to put your plug in cross threaded as it's done blind and they sit in a 6inch hole so you can't see what you are doing.

Just got it on order with http://asperformance.com £165.00. I remember paying about £120 for the B&N short shifter for the classic 6 or 7 years ago. This looks a much better product.

Do not buy the cheap Chinese knock offs from ebay, they have a history of sticking and causing damage.

thats a good Price imho.

The clunk could also be the brake pads moving, they will move upwards in the caliper when reversing and can make a klonk noise. As Jay said replace both Discs at the same time. As for the Turbo they are not normally that noticable unless you have an induction kit fitted, then you can hear the air whoosing in to the system. pretty sure a few others will be along with thier 2 pence :)

Seriously it's not that hard, just take it slowly and have replacement studs and nuts on hand.

It's doable with axel stands Remove the heat shielding from your Turbo, not sure how to do this as mine was removed. Jack up front of car and put on stands. Under the car remove the 2 bolts that connect down pipe to centre pipe. There is a 14mm nut that holds the down pipe to the chassis via a bracket remove this. . Next we need to remove down pipe from turbo. It's easier if you take the car off the stands at this point, hassle though. From the engine bat unplug the sensor that is attached to the down pipe There are five 14 mm nuts the secure the down pipe to the turbo, these are normally a bugger to get off so you may ned an Irwin grip nut to get them off. Some of them have a stud with a. It on the other side so you need 2x14 mm spanners. Ratchet works but takes some ingenuity to get it to fit. http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pieces/96028?kpid=96028&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=COafq-XD5bwCFYWWtAodNy8AwA Some of the bolts may come out with the stud still attached, so may even unscrew the stud from the turbo. Prob worth getting some spare studs and 14 mm exhaust nuts and replace them all. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MANIFOLD-STUDS-M10-X-37MM-1-25MM-PITCH-METRIC-FINE-4-6-GRADE-PACK-OF-5-/180840089182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a1ae8c65e http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-X-1-25-PITCH-FLANGED-TYPE-MANIFOLD-NUTS-PACK-OF-25-/360400519857?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item53e98b82b1 Once you have the down pipe loose lower/drop it under the car. That's it off. Refitting is just the reverse, although don't forget a new gasket, get a genuine one rather than the crappy ebay ones, it's worth the extra believe me. If you are fitting a decat it's a good idea to get some exhaust wrap and wrap it 1st. It's a good idea to have a 2nd pair of hands as you need to go under the car to offer up the down pipe, and someone up top to guide it and start off a few nuts to hold it there. Obviously you'll need to put the car on the stands again to do this. Do the nuts around the turbo just enough to still give yo wiggle room on the down pipe as you need to get it back on the chassis mount. Once you have done this do all the nuts up to the correct torque or you will easily damage the studs or nuts by over tightening. Over all the job should take a cple of hours for the 1st time. It used to take me about 30-45 mins after a few swaps for mots and tinkering.

Chipmunks nesting in your struts?

If you register the £80 wheel nuts with Mcgard then they replace rusty nuts under a lifetime Gtee. Makes them worth investing in. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SUBARU-IMPREZA-STI-BLACK-WHEEL-NUT-SET-LUG-NUTS-McGARD-WRX-STI-/281133402026?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item4174db47aa#ht_1607wt_919

We'll just found out they are a deff no no.

Was looking at the dipping kit you can get seems quite a good idea but lots of waste with the carbon film. http://mydipkit.co.uk

Was that the DIY dipping kit you can get?