savage bulldogs

Hi n welcome, most of us use import car parts and opie oils for genuine subaru bits and fluids . As far as the header tank is concerned , icp will probably have them new and I'm unsure if they're the same as any impreza ones. maybe one of the leggy owners can confirm if they are , as it might make it easy to find a second hand replacement. Far as fuel is concerned, as long as it doesn't have any "breathing mods" it will be fine if you just use 99 ron .

Sorry to hear you're thinking of selling, but know what it's like trying to keep a daily mint 😏 Not that any of my input will help you shorten your list but .... After owning my 2011 caddy for a couple of years , I'd probably buy something audi Quattro or vw 4motion 😶 . My v dub bud has a 2014 golf r ,with just a remap and downpipe it's making a responsive 370 hp . But I'd prefer his 480hp 4wd 3.3 ltr v5 turbo mk1 golf any day 🙂 You could always buy my v7sti type uk in the summer next year 😉

Haven't got anyone local that you could swap maf's with to see if it resolves the issue before parting with hard earned?

Hi bud is the spoiler the oe v1sti one , as i can't tell from that pic and if so would you post to suffolk (east Anglia) Cheers clive

Been driving the bug sti a lot recently, which is no slouch and a pleasure to drive 😎 But the v1sti will be coming off the road for the salty winter period soon 🙁 as she's looking good with her fresh coat of paint and I'd like to keep her that way 😉. So i decided to fire her up and take it for a spin to blow the cobwebs off before hibernation time . Eldest daughter doesn't often let me go out in the v1sti , without her ,as i think she loves the scoob more than me 🙄 Hit the slip lane and she turns to me grinning "Dad this thing you've created is absolutely savage , compared to bluebaru" 😂 Bug does sound nice with the haywood n scott turbo back and hks d.v but i will miss the rawness of the v1sti and the savage soundtrack of the fluttering gt28 and old skool Bailey's d.v 😊

If your running a aftermarket "oil'd filter" or induction kit, (like a k&n ) it might have contaminated the element. So you might just get away with cleaning the maf element with some brake cleaner . Hopefully it might solve the issue completely and would be Much cheaper than buying a new maf .Then possibly finding out it makes no difference to your symptoms, cos it's something else at fault 😉

Assume you've got the standard cat in place ? Have you tried taking it for a long drive before the test to heat the cat (hot cats work better) . As for the misfire without a code , spark plugs ,coilpacks ,air leaks , tgv's, did you fit the injectors with new seals , icv clean , maf clean .

Always warm them up before using boost and cool them down ,by driving the last 2 mins of your journey off boost . They do like a regular service and oil change (with quality oil at least every 6k) , only use 99ron (high octane fuel) They don't like bolt on mods (exhausts ,induction kits ,fmic's ect) being fitted without having the map tweeked ,to allow for the air flow changes. Anything else in particular you want to know ? Welcome to the world of burble n boost 😊

Has it had a different spoiler fitted ? , cos if they're not sealed properly, that could be a possibility. The rear lights and rear screen are also another way water can get in . Make sure you check the spare wheel and both rear arch wells (behind the rear wheels) As if it's been leaking for a while they can fill up with water .

Hi n welcome , no disrespect but thats very cheap if it's a genuine item 😎 Just thought id add that v3 and v4 dump valve fitment are the same (to widen your prospective customers) . They'd also be suitable for any subaru with a fmic fitted, as long as you buy the correct dia "reducer" silicone coupler, to fit the fmic pipework take off and dump valve 😉

Whats you target hp and what's the car gonna be used for ? I've never personally used the omega pistons before ,so without knowing much about their spec , im afraid i can't help there . but i have used mahle pistons. They do 2 main types forged (good for 500 hp) and race (good for 750 hp) . I've always got my engineer to check the bores for ovality and taper ,then decided whether the bores just need a hone or a 0.5 mm overbore (with oversized pistons) to be within spec . You probably already know but If you intend on using a ej20g cdb you'll need your engineer to convert the crank thrust to take the later nitrated crank . I'd add headstuds and cossie headgaskets ,once you know the size of you piston bowl (to calculate thickness required) If it's gonna be used on track ,id also add a baffled sump and possibly swirl pot too 😉

In early stages of headgasket failure the sometimes only overheat when running at normal temps under boost , so don't always show up by a sniff test early on . As when the coolant is running at normal temps (fan has cut in ,temp gauge in the middle) it's at its maximum pressure . This plus the extra cylinder pressure from air being forced in by the turbo (on boost) causes combustion gasses to seep past the falling headgasket, pushing combustion gasses into the coolant and rising the coolant temps . Subaru engines very rarely mix oil n water tbh . Check the rad doesn't have a crack in the plastic near the overflow hose you replaced (common issue) Check top/ bottom rad and heater matrix flow and return hoses are getting hot when cars at normal running temp (fans cut in at idle) .as this might help rule out a sticky stat or airlock from the leaky hose .

Midweek break, so took the bug out for a run this time 🙂

Took the v1sti to it's last meet of the year before she goes into hibernation for the salty winter this year . Was a local f.b group called east coast Japanese, loads of different motors there but mine was the oldest scoob 😊 Only took a few pics but here they are anyways 😉

Yeah it was a baby boxer porka , so i wouldn't have picked on him but he started it by tailgating me through the 30 limits lol . I have had a play with a old skool 911 turbo , that couldn't keep up either but mine is running 359.9 hp and only weighs about 1200kg 😉

Might be worth whipping the covers off and checking the timing marks, just in case the belts slipped due to a worn tensioner. Did you use the right grade plugs ,ngk heat 6's for standard or heat 7's when modified. Definitely plugged the coilpacks in the right way on each bank . With 2 cylinders not firing at all ,it's strange you've not got any codes tbh .

Washed it and went to a local retro meet upset a middle aged man in a Porsche on the slip lane on the way home . Don't think he expected my 24yr old scooby to leave him for dust in 3rd and 4th 😊 He didn't look happy with his expensive mid life crisis purchase, When he over took me, as i stopped accelerating at 70 . Old scoobys never die .... they just get quicker 😉

There's a buyers guide for common issues (think it's in the impreza section) Most things apply to both bug n blob tbh. Rust areas are rear arches , suspension turrets and inner sills .front lower crossmember and u brace (subframe) Rear shocks knock at low speed when worn. Hear it start from cold ,to check for piston slap and smoking . Avoid cars with a Lack of Good regular oil changes and ones with mods that haven't got proof of being mapped . Good luck with the search 👍

You'd normally loose spark on all cylinders if crank or cam sensors were at fault . Are you definitely getting spark just on the 2 front cylinders? . Have you tried swapping coilpacks from front to back to see if the misfire changes cylinders ? Main Engine loom plugs (either end near battery and boost solinoid) and earths making a good connection ? Spark plugs in good condition?

Nice looking example, would gladly cast a eye over it but im in south suffolk so probably too far just to pop in . Feel free to either post some pics of the receipts /list them on here or pm them and I'll let you know whats listed or missed off the normal upgrade path and services . As for the ipswich local meets they're the 3rd tuesday of every month , they also have a Norwich meet on the 1st Tuesday of every moth too . Feel free to pm me about those too .

Well not been much point updating this thread as i haven't done anything other than drive it ( 2k and counting) 😊 Decided not to put the bug sti up for sale until spring /summer next year , so its left me with a tough choice every day, ....... which scoob to drive 🤔 But Today it's been the bug 😉

Did the garage "jack" the throttle body butterfly open when doing the compression test? As if the throttle cable or wiring (if its drive by wire) isn't opening the butterfly ,it won't allow any air in too compress . If it has avcs did you disturb the oil lines or sensors when removing the inlet ? Are you sure it was tgv problems in the first place and not a compression issue ?

My scoob was proppa filthy by the time we got there, glad i spent about 10hrs cleaning it 😏 Still enjoyed it and good to meet the few i spoke too and sorry too the one's i didn't get chance too chat with . Took a couple of "hurried" pics of the stand , so sorry if i didn't get everyone's scoob in . I'll try to make the effort to get too a few more s.o.c show stands next year though 😉

Nice to see you've still got the waggon and been busy james , looking good chap 👍

Well thats you ,me and my youngest daughter.. .... shame she can't drive , cos I'd get her to bring the bug sti to help fill the stand lol