savage bulldogs

Have you considered a jdm spec c ? Hawk eye looks but solid jdm 2ltr forged engine .best of both worlds and normally in white 😉

Might just be due to the bank holiday weekend that they haven't sorted things . At least they haven't taken any funds yet , so I'd check their opening hours and phone them up to ask what they're playing at .

Pop the crank sensor off is the usual way as there's no chance of it firing up if there's a bit fuel left in the rails . Crank sensor plug (in tidgy's pic) is easy to get to and cuts ignition spark so it won't start but will turn over . This helps get the oil all round the engine to avoid any dry start up damage 😉

Rear lights on a classic are sealed with some sort of mastic from the factory. It's weird stuff they use as it never drys and I got fooking covered in the stuff when removing the lights on my old v3 uk lol Just had a better look at the pics , the outer black plastic always has a gap but the lights back plate is sealed into the bodywork with the sticky mastic stuff (when you fit the lights into the car )

I think it's due to the positive pressure in the fmic pipework and core pushing back at the turbo when you let off the gas. You could fit a weaker spring to the bov so it releases boost to a lower pressure or fit a recirc valve instead of vta [emoji6] Me personally, I like the flutter and have a stronger spring in my old school bailey's to make it do it all the more [emoji108]

If it's a esl daughter board in a standard ecu (to make it mappable) the self code check function should still work . The odb ports on classics are pretty useless tbh and hardly work with most brands of code readers 😉

I have read somewhere that some jdm and uk versions have cam and crank sensors running oppersite pins , how much truth is in this I don't know but it might be worth a google. Are the engine loom earth's and plugs all making a good connection? I dare say the timing and airflow would be out due to the different cams uk cams and newage tmic size difference. If all else fails, Maybe a dyno run to check afr and knock levels.

If it's running a standard ecu search for the classic self ecu code check sticky thread on here . Then to see if any fault codes are stored . If not what what ecu is in the car ? Classics do tend to suffer from fuel slosh which causes fuel starvation and fuel cut when cornering hard with under half a tank (which can also give the same sort of symptoms )

Gutted for you stants ,Where's the dislike button [emoji107] Hopefully you won't be without burble for too long bud

Could try asking Darren at abw or someone at ht autos about splitter fitment ,tidgy 😉

Yeah you get a lot more induction and spool noise from a cone filter or induction kit . most only fit them over 300hp on classics as most fmic kit pipework gets in the way ,although newage sti's can produce 400hp + with a panel filter ,tmic and air box . Imo (once mapped in) the Only real downside to fitting a cone filter is it will draw in hot air from under the bonnet ,rather than colder denser air from outside the bay (like the standard air box does). You can help this buy buying a induction kit with a heat shield ,making up a cold air feed or position the filter closer to the hole in the inner wing that the oe box uses to draw air 😉

I've only owned classics, so couldn't tell you what the difference between them is . But they're not the same ,as bug onwards drop links , abs and arb bushes have different part numbers / listings than classic ones

Nippy nought time was it bud [emoji5] At least it's a easy fix fella 😉

He's running mafless bud

I thought that gambit might come out of hiding if I keep mentioning nipples on a post [emoji4]

Nasty stuff I don't like's it but it does stop a fair bit of heat soak and stops you cooking the oil filter , so definitely worth doing if your fitting aftermarket headers[emoji106] My brv conned my mum into doing ours ..... Apparently because she's a nurse she's !Removed! hot at bandaging stuff [emoji23]

Probably nothing to sinister and just a bit of condensation. But sounds like a good excuse for a rebuild .... cough cough forged pistons[emoji108]

Yeah nips on top bud 👍 And if they're brembo fronts bleed the inner nips first 😉

Nice work 👍

I can't remember if my v3 uk turbo had bulbs in that position but it did have abs and a air bag light . My v1 94 sti doesn't have air bags or abs and here's a pic of the back of the clocks Hasn't got bulb holders in those positions either , so it might be air bag light ? The dccd models use the grey bit in the middle of our clocks to show diff position ,maybe they use the ones your on about too ?

I know yours is a early classic ,Has yours got abs and airbags , cornish ?

Did the first detail of the year 😎

Have a squint at the charcoal canister and associated pipework. As this ,along with the purge system , holds and burns off fuel vapour . I think in the newage it's at the back of the car rather than under the bonnet like on classics.

If you do drop the coolant and remove the stat it might be possible to visually check the blades at the back of the pump ? Tbh I can't remember as it's been a while since I built mine but due to the strange symptoms of the temps going down, in conditions when you'd imagine them to climb . A visual check of the pump ,oil cooler and general pipework from the pump might be worth doing , just to check if the galleries are clear and pumps not broken