savage bulldogs

Fortunately I've never had to do a block test or "sniff test " as I know them . It's possible that it could just be a massive air lock from when you replaced the rad a while back . As scoobs are notorious for air locks and have to be filled gradually making sure the header tank never get sucked dry during the refill . Otherwise it does seem to be early signs of headgasket ,as initially it sometimes only leaks when on boost or heavy load (giving it beans uphill) . Due to the extra compression in these conditions forcing gasses past the partially failing headgasket .this also means that there's not always a lot of hydrocarbons in the coolant to start off with and it takes a while to build up the detectable levels (especially if you've refreshed the coolant recently ) You could try dropping the coolant and refilling without the engine running . Squeezing the hoses and making sure the header tank doesn't end up completely empty while topping up . Once it's as full as possible turn the heating controls to hot ,start it up and continue to fill the header tank as necessary untill the fans cut in . Hopefully it's just a case of air in the system and not a headgasket issue .

Nice choice kay [emoji41] Best get saving for that drive train and forged build upgrade too [emoji6] Are you gonna fit a afr kit, the maf n ecu then back the boost and timing off a bit , untill you get to grips with the data logging ?

Don't understand why it takes a week for something to be delivered in the UK. when I bought the apexi hako interface from Oz and it only took 4.5 days to land on my door mat [emoji41] I've fitted the aem x afr gauge already . Just glad I did a bit of research before fitting it,or I'd have been panicking [emoji23] . as when I'm in cruise (light throttle ) the afr is much leaner than on boost . So the peak data is miles out in comparison to when I'm at wot . Hopefully get the hako interface fitted this weekend and start to log some data

Yeah it would wind up the centre diff , I think tidgy experienced that when his 6 speed box didn't have the same ratio as his 5 speed diff . I think it started jumping on the dyno but I don't know how far out his ratios were

Headgaskets on scoobs do tend to blow between cylinder and coolant . Initial symptoms are ,when on boost it forces combustion gasses (hydrocarbons) into the coolant. Is a "block test" to check for hydrocarbons ? . Are you sure it's air in the system and not a sticky stat ,faulty pump or a flow issue (clogged coolant galleries or a kinked coolant pipe)

I had some 17" speedlines chronos on my v3 uk and had to run 5mm spacers after I fitted my 4 pots . But the rb classic runs 17" speedlines and 4 pots as standard . I'm unsure what model they are but they're not chronos or the 1's in your pic. No much help I know but it goes to show that it's all in the et and design of the spokes that change fitment. Some later classic sti's run 16"s over 4 pots as standard but yet again I'm unsure of the brand or et .

Just thought I'd add if the new intake pipe is better flowing it might need to map tweeked in . As Gary fitted 1 to his bug sti and had idle issues until it was tweeked 😉

I thought I'd mention that 3" wasn't standard size as there's quite a few for sale that size for the bigger aftermarket turbos . I think the oe size is about 76mm dia (roughly) If you're fitting a intake pipe with the inlet in situ you shouldn't need any gaskets . I haven't changed 1 myself so maybe someone who has can chip in but here's a couple of things you'd probably need . A couple of mtrs of vac line (cos it's cheap and some of yours might be perished ) and they look purdy lol . Plus a couple of vac line t pieces . Coolant (just a bit to top up if you remove the header tank) Jubilee clips various sizes. (as I remove mine I tend to put stainless worm drive ones in their place). Normally get Clips n vac line from "ash " auto silicone hoses but you'd have to check what dia your existing vac line is ,as my classics use at least 2 different dia pending on what they're for . Oh don't forget the swear tin and plasters lol

Yeah that's the turbo intake hose but standard turbo's don't have a 3" compressor inlet housing (oe is slightly smaller dia than 3" ). They are a pita to fit with the inlet manifold in situ but not impossible, just get the swear tin handy lol . Don't buy the cheapest options as they are poor fitting and "suck flat" under boost . But there are slightly cheaper options. .. scooby works ,japspeed ect might be a cheaper option

Icp or opie sell the crush washers , you could buy a magnetic sump plug and they normally come with a washer 😉

Long range parcel delivery turned up yesterday 4.5 days from my email to Oz to my door mat [emoji41] So I now have everything needed to map apexi [emoji6]

Did the ecu have any codes stored ? Did the maf have the same colour label and Did you reset the ecu after fitting the other parts ? Have you checked all vac lines and intake pipework (from air filter to throttle body ) for leaks or cracks ? Might be worth cleaning the idle control valve (just don't adjust the position ) .

Think you have to tick a box on the s.o.c membership form, if you don't want to get put on "the check up from the neck up " list . Otherwise you automatically go on the list for owning a performance daily driver [emoji23]

Just had a quick Google and apparently the p1 springs are discontinued. But here's the thread with owners comparing alternative options that I was on about . https://www.scoobynet.com/991887-prodrive-p1-lowering-springs-rare-purchase-opportunity-19.html

My front shocks were fubar'd on my v3 uk and the front sat 15mm different from drivers side to passengers side . But tbh you'd probably get the same if the springs were fubar'd too . Have you done a visual check for oil leakage around the suspect side shock ? If there's no height difference might be worth checking the rear arb bushes and droplinks . As these can also cause extra movement in the rear suspension when worn .

Shame you've already ordered the mid section, i've got a 3" classic cat back for sale £60 collected [emoji6]

I run gruppe headers,4 bolt up pipe, a cusco decat downpipe mated to a 3" Cobra track day system [emoji6] It has 2 resonators in the centre section and a big back box but still flows well enough for 360hp @1.5 bar [emoji41] If your coilovers have adjustable damper ,just set them a couple of clicks softer . As my meister r zeta-r coilovers are fine set 3 clicks softer than the original geo set up even with hardly any wheel gap and the Whiteline arb, droplinks and roll centre correction kit keeping things tight in the twisties [emoji41]

Hi n welcome Steve . Afaik the oe p1 springs were made by elbaich and there was a group buy thread on scabby net a while back . I have got a set of classic elbaich pro springs which are good for fast road use as they're progressive rate (soft in a straight line but stiffen up under load in the twisties ) But they ain't quite the same as the oe p1 elbaich jobbies . So if you wish to keep the car standard you'd have to find some p1 oe spec springs . P.s don't be shy and feel free to post a pic of the p1 , as we like pics on here 😉

So buy yourself a 3" cobra track day system and set the coilovers a bit softer ... . Da daa 4 door daily that doesn't chip your teeth or make your ears bleed 😉

Hi n welcome. Sounds like a faulty or dirty maf . Have a search in the tech section on here for the "sticky thread" self reading classic ecu codes . Remove the maf and clean it with brake cleaner . Don't touch the fine wire airflow sensor wire (as they're very fragile) and make sure the maf is dry before refitting. Do a ecu reset and then start it to see if the fault remains . If it's still not running right do another ecu code check to see if there's any fault code stored . Let us know how you get on , bud

Hi n welcome, I'm just across the boarder in Suffolk and spend a fair bit of time on attowes dyno in Norwich 😉

Although they do look fairly badly stained , I sold my old work van to a detailer . Being a plasterer and owning it for 7 yrs you can guess how bad the seats looked . 3 hrs in his hands and they looked good as new (so might be worth getting someone to look at em ) Otherwise I'd imagine a retrim would be fairly expensive but if funds won't allow maybe a interior out of a breaker might be a cheaper option

If your original set up has a single scroll turbo there's quite a few oe turbo options that hit 330hp on a 2ltr engine ,that are a straight swap . Vf35 , vf34 , tdo5 16g /18g or 20 g ect can all be found second hand for under £400 .

Or a valeter could probably clean them up well and apply some sort of sealer (scotchgard )

I've never bought anything for a newage bay and at a quick glance they do look similar. ... Well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it [emoji55]