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savage bulldogs

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Everything posted by savage bulldogs

  1. I've got a spare converted coldside though , if you fancy a 340hp capable turbo [emoji6]
  2. Unfortunately , I'd already built my engine with another v1sti long engine before I decided to save my brvs clean shell from the scrappies . Although the engine I used was from another v1sti of the same year , it's not original. I kept the block 2ltr and I didn't thrust convert the cdb ,which most do to take the later phase 2 onwards or 2.5ltr crank . I did have a 0.5 mm over bore done just to make sure there was no bore taper . It depends how original you keep it but the pistons ,rods and crank would have to be "aftermarket " possibly different cams /later better flowing heads at mid 400's . I couldn't tell you what a 400hp + safe engine would cost built but as a guide, you'd be looking at a min of 2k in engine parts /machine costs + labour and block (if your not using yours ) . As for when I build another one, I'll probably take my engine out ,chuck a cheap engine in and turn the boost down (a lot ). But I've pulled the motor on mine a few times now [emoji15] As i pushed a crank seal in to far when I first built mine and it chucked oil out behind the flywheel [emoji30] [emoji35] [emoji36]. From sat morning till Sunday lunchtime I'd had the engine out , back in and running up to temp 4 times till I spotted my school boy error and fixed the leak lol . Once you've set a budget id suggest to email a few reputable engine builders , to get a idea what sort of route /spec you can afford .
  3. It's definitely a aftermarket switch, could have had a flamer kit , anti lag /launch control ect . Whip the center consul off to see if it's wired up and if so trace the wires back maybe ?
  4. I do like a custom build , me [emoji41] Some lovely fabricating and body work right there too , it looks a beast [emoji106] Looks like you've created a lot of space at the front of the bay it's almost screaming out for a blown h6 [emoji39]
  5. If you need to have the scoob on the road asap ,then buying a built engine would mean that it would be off the road for less time. You could then sell your cdb (assuming your current engine is a cdb) to recoup some funds afterwards . Otherwise I'd expect it to be off the road for at least a fortnight, even if the engine builder you use does the machine work "in house" . Cos if they rebuild your current block , they've gotta remove ,strip ,clean ,machine ,build and refit . If your fairly good with a spanner you could save a bit by removing the current engine and fitting a built engine . You'd probably save another grand + if you build it yourself but (as aucky said) if it does go bang you've got no warranty to fall back on .Although I did enjoy building mine and will probably be doing another one at some point [emoji4] You probably already know that You'll need box and clutch and brake upgrades , as well as bigger turbo and injectors too (extra £4k in parts) but just thought I'd mention it [emoji6] Have you thought of what budget and route you'll set just for the engine ? Best of luck whichever route you take [emoji106]
  6. I'd imagine they'd be standard wrx / uk turbo cams ,which are lowest lift /duration cams they put in turbo imprezas. Afaik the v1sti cams are better and a straight swap. I'm unsure if all the v2 sti cams are the same as the v1sti ,as some of the v2sti ra's have been known to have the under bucket shims (which might use a different profile on the cam journal). Think piper ,Kent or Brian crower do uprated cams for most ej heads . Maybe you can cross check the part numbers to see if v2,v3/v4 cams fit ? . As the v3/v4 sti cams are the most agressive cams subaru fitted to the pre phase 2 heads [emoji6]
  7. I would say welcome back but this post is a bit useless imo [emoji16] Well seeing as you haven't included a pic of a subaru you can at least tell us your budget. ... So we can hurry the process up a bit and find 1 for ya, Rick [emoji6]
  8. Got the p.m but can't add pics on those [emoji6] If your's is definitely a v1 jdm I'd imagine that it would be the same as my v1 sti's loom . I just happen to have a pic on my phone of the speed sensor output pin that I used for the avcr I had a fault with the speed sensor output on both the apexi avcr and the f.c ecu . So I did have a good route around the speed sensor output wiring diagram and the correct ecu pinout coloured wire (in my 1st pic) doesn't appear at the back of the clocks on the dash harness. So you'll have to connect near the ecu or trace that wire back from that pin . Let me know if you have the same colour wires in the same order on your loom plug and if you can find the correct pin from my crappy pics . Here's another random pic of the loom plug too see if it's the same . If not I'll dig the manual out tomorrow [emoji6]
  9. Not that sparks is my forte but I spliced my avcr "speed pick up " wire from a ecu pinout diagram that was included in the fitting manual . What year/ model and country is your scoob? If it's covered in the avcr multi fitting diagrams, I'll let you know the ecu speed sensor pin but I've only got early classic wiring diagrams on the p.c .
  10. I think wrc 3 was the last one of that series I played ,so can't compare , but dirt rally is definitely 1 of the best rally sims I've played . It is a sim though , very rewarding when you're "in the zone " [emoji41] but it's equally unforgiving if you take you're eye off the ball [emoji36] [emoji23]
  11. Yeah I played this and project cars with the ps4 controller, will admit I had to turn the sensitivity down though . Otherwise I ended up giving the preface v2sti v limited a bit of a "face lift "
  12. At least I'm not the only one with a optimus prime themed bay [emoji41]
  13. Both front n rear doors are the same on classic saloon and wagons . The door glass does have different colour tints (usually) jdm is black tint uk is green Afaik. If your fitting the whole door bear in mind, the wiring harnesses for the leccy windows /central locking, do have different connectors on early jdm to uk versions.
  14. Will admit subaru do seem to be really good with any recall issues . Couple of years ago they were recalling due to rusty wishbones on newages too . So anyone who investigates if they're part of the new issue should probably ask about the older wishbone issue while asking . Well either that or buy a v1 sti as mine has no airbags and un rust'able ally wishbones as standard [emoji39] Now Toyota on the other hand are shocking with their recalls , after being told my mum's 7yr old car didn't need a steering column recall ....... 4 days later the column fell off [emoji36] [emoji35] [emoji33] . Luckily enough it was as she pulled on her drive and not going down the carriage way. I was proppa miffed as I had taken the car to them 4 days previous for them to check . No help to get the car to them and they couldn't get a "technician " to us . I fixed it drove it to the local dealers , parked it across the entrance to their showroom/workshop , unfixed it ,gave them the keys and walked off . Got a apologetic phone call and a free minor service 2 hrs later . Not that I'd ever take her car to them again to use the voucher or ever buy a Toyota.
  15. Alyn at Asperformance does some form of 114 to 100 hub conversion ( to upgrade to the stronger R180 bearings ). So he might be worth a call ,as a worst case scenario he'd know what's compatible and what's not .
  16. Hopefully stants isn't right and your just using the wrong socket and extension combo . As they're a pita to get to and if the thread is fubar it's probably a "remove the cylinder head job " to helicoil the thread .
  17. How much fuel was in the tank and did it cut out just after a right hand turn ? As scoobs are notorious for fuel sloshing in the tank and causing boost cut ,when you have under half a tank [emoji6] Search on here for "classic self ecu code check" to see if you've got any codes stored .
  18. V1 and v2 don't have ht leads bud . They have individual coil packs on top of each spark plug. They're prone to cracking and causing the spark to jump from coilpack to cam cover. Which in damp conditions can get worse and cause a misfire. I'd visually check for signs of wear or arc'ing out on the coilpacks themselves, when fitting the spark plugs . If the problem is still there after fitting the spark plugs and the coilpacks look iffy , I wouldn't bother fitting second hand ones (as they'll be 20 yrs old) Either new classic ones or a newage coilpack conversion would be the best route .
  19. My "newage" spec isn't too sharp tbh but you could find out what turbo and gearbox ratio yours has . Then cross reference those with uk and jdm spec to see which model it's based on maybe ? . I started off with a cheap 4 in 1 gauge just to keep a eye on oil ,pressure /temp and boost ,as I wasn't keen on to many distractions while driving. Now (somehow ) My interior looks like a airplane cockpit ffs [emoji55] So I'm probably not the best one to give you any pointers [emoji23]
  20. The avcr will make it easier to "map" the boost curve and once set up , the gear judge function will help keep the boost the same in every gear [emoji41] . It's not capable of adjusting fueling and timing though , which is a shame for us but think they'd be a lot of mappers out of a job if it could [emoji6] As for extra power and torque most standard turbos will make a extra 50 hp ish than what they left the factory with. So a decent remap is about the best bhp for buck mod imo . Obviously it depends on the model of scoob as to what max power a standard turbo will make but generally a sti will make 330hp and a wrx will make 260 hp with supporting mods and a remap on the standard turbos. As for my position for the avcr it's just under the head unit in my classic .
  21. Glad it was something simple . I wouldn't suggest you increase the boost without having a way of monitoring afr / knock and be able to listen for det (Ie on a dyno ). Probably me being over cautious but engine builds ain't cheap . Saying that , I've had a bit of a play with mine and set up the gear judge function and raised the boost above stock a bit . But my fueling and timing were set for 1.5 bar before I fitted the avcr . Then once fitted i set it at 1 bar and tweeked the solinoid duty untill it was stable . The set the gear judge function and then raised it to 1.2 . I knew the fueling was set for higher boost so I knew it wouldn't lean off and go bang [emoji6] The mapper then upped the boost to 1.55 bar and tweeked the fueling /timing to suit on his dyno .
  22. Tbh I haven't decided if I want to keep the v1 and mod a ally tank ,fit a v3/v4 or switch to newage. A friend is breaking his 93 wrx and it only cost me £20 , and the old 1 whines more than the Mrs when I hit boost . Did you just fit the end of the v1 steering rack to pump hard pipe into the 02 pump , like you do with the v3/v4 pump conversion ? There's a few shiny and preface bits left on that 93 wrx let me know if you need anything fellas [emoji6]
  23. Not yet but I guess I'll be nipping into halfrauds to make the most of the club discount and pick up a can of hammerite at the weekend [emoji12]
  24. Don't worry about that James [emoji6] I've only owned it for a hr and it looks like this already [emoji5]
  25. Powersteering pump is getting noisier by the day, so I picked up a new one. Well it was new 24yrs ago [emoji23]
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