savage bulldogs

Na I switched to the dark side for next gen on ps4. I did enjoy the beta and the Mrs managed to book a long weekend away on the release date [emoji57] So took the plunge and paid up for the early download [emoji6]

@Chrisg1989 looks like you've made your mark on it , nice work [emoji106] As for me I'm off for a long weekend with the family . was quite surprised how easily my classic boot swollowed up the cases and had no complaints from the 3 teenagers in the back seats [emoji41] Will admit 14 miles and the first slip lane into the journey. ... sudden loss of power , engine stalled [emoji15] Mrs said my face looked like "someone had sucked the jam outta my doughnut "[emoji22] [emoji51] Turns out the Extra load , 5 th gear pull and 1.68 bar of boost was too much and I popped a boost hose off [emoji23] 5 mins with a spanner and we were back on the road [emoji6]

I bought the early enlister digital edition and have Been giving this a dam good thrashing for the past few days. Well impressed so far [emoji41]

I dont know much about the spec of a vf48 but If the 48 has a roller bearing core, Think you might need the coolant / oil lines and the oil feed banjo bolts of the 48 . As the tdo4 has journal based core and requires more oil than a roller bearing cored turbo . If that's the case you stand a good chance of blowing the turbo seals without a more restrictive oil banjo bolt than the original tdo4's one . Afaik all single scroll oe subaru turbos use the same gaskets . You'd need a new up pipe to turbo inlet and turbo outlet gasket when fitting anyways. Make sure you buy genuine subaru ones and most buy them from import car parts, so just double check when ordering them [emoji6]

Do you have a good local machine shop that preferably has experience with the boxer layout? As it's definitely worth getting them to check the bores for ovality and taper, to see if you'll just get away with a hone and standard sized pistons. If the bores are outside oe tolerances you might have to go with some oversized pistons and a 0.5mm over bore . Has the ring broken and is there any visual signs of damage/pitting to the bores ,piston crown,head chamber or valves?

Pics [emoji39]

There can be a few more complications than just fitting mounting brackets to make rear brembos fit on a wrx newage or classic . As the newage sti's run R180 hubs which use a different size handbrake "drum" and shoes in the center of the disc . So make sure you double check the rear disc type Is compatible for yours before buying the rears bud . I think some say the longevity of k sports ain't that good so most go with the ap set up when going "aftermarket " their supposed to be good but not cheap . I run brembos with godspeed discs and pfc pads on the front . Blobeye wrx 2 pot calipers with conversion brackets ,to fit their larger dia (godspeed) discs and pagid pads on the rear with Goodrich braided lines all round . My v1 originally had 2 pot fronts and single pot rears which were kinda kamakzi @ 330 hp . So I haven't got much to compare my current set up too but with no abs it smokes all 4 if you stamp on the stop peddle in the dry .

Yeah I've tried kay he's a bit cack with anything tech and his p.c is slower than a Honda . I'll have to take a memory stick round his a upload them for him . Had no idea that you liked d n b too stants . Shame that as I could've given you both a mp3 cd at japshow to see what you think .

I like a bit of old school d n b /jungle I've got stacks of tidy mix's in the scoob . my brv in law used to dj at a club I ran in Clacton back in the day . He's still got his 12 10's and a massive collection of original vinyl from 92 to early 2000 (my favourite years of scoobies and tunes ) . If he eventually gets some mixes uploaded somewhere I'll post a link on here but for now the closest he's got to the digital age is the mp3's I made him burn for me lol .

Once I'm happy with the bodywork on my classic ,I want to get the interior back to standard . So you could be a handy fella to know . As I'd like to get the aclantra on my door cards redone and a set of front classic bucket seats retrimmed to oe v1/v2 sti spec and colour .

I used some old school axle stands (I've owned them for ages ) along with a halfrauds "pro" yellow jack. The jack has seen plenty of abuse during my use and is still going strong

No probs, I think I got mine from Mark at lateral performance for about £40 including new O rings and longer cap bolts /spacers . Just don't fit them until just before you're ready to have a remap ,cos it will over fuel, need to be kept at low revs and off boost untill it's rescaled. I know where you're coming from with the Mrs. Only time I successfully multi task is when I buy something for the car and pi55 her off at the same time [emoji23]

The v5/v6 phase 2 rails and lines won't fit your inlet ,bud . Your v1 will have a phase 1 fuel rail set up but if you just buy some v5/v6 phase 2 yellow 440cc injectors , you can use "phase adapters" to make them fit directly into your rails .

Clutch peddle and bite had been feeling a bit unusual lately, so I thought id check the fluid . I recon that I'd probably cooked it as it was proppa black but it's back to normal peddle feel after a fluid refresh [emoji6] So chucked a sponge at the old girl .... Then washed the scoob and give it a coat of colinite [emoji39]

I think the hatch ones do fit as when I was speaking to Alyn at "Asperformance" about pads for my classic he asked if they were bug/blob or hatch brembos that I'm running. Give him a bell as he'll know if they're a straight fit and if not he'll probably sell the bit's needed to make them fit.

I used the ones on ken gilbert for my early classic, think there's a link on the first or second page of my build thread . Could it be a pop up of firewall setting on your p.c ? Most of the front end rust pics look like it's just the manifold heat shields . Not too sure if you can get replacements but you could always remove the headers take the oe heatsheilds off and wrap the headers in heat wrap . I'd say that the arb to chassis brackets look quite corroded but I just removed mine ground them back to bear metal .Then give them a coat of hammeright rust killing primer and smooth black paint . Seems to have held up ok for 2 winters so far . Most get a uprated Whiteline arb ,which solves the look of twiglet looking standard arb for a while .As imo Whiteline stuff seems to do the job well but it rusts fairly easy and doesn't look mint for long .

Ooh stronger gearbox and mansized boost is it tidgy [emoji4]

Dunno if that's aimed at my last comment Mr b ,as I wasn't very clear with my "aftermarket " discription. I ment the bigger bore and better flowing intake pipe would only help if mapped in [emoji6] I do agree about about the recirc ,I'd personally refit 1 if my custom pipework wasn't so frankenstien [emoji23]

Most of the money I've spent on my 94 sti has been through choice . Don't think I've ever had to spend money on mine cos something broke ....well unless you count me pushing to much power through my 5 speed and turning it into a 4 speed .[emoji23]

Hi n welcome, Denise. Enjoy the forum and keep us updated on any shows you have planned for next year [emoji6] Oh and don't forget the pics we like pics [emoji5]

Did you check the fuse box behind the plastic trim next to the accelerator peddle?

A good aftermarket one would probably give slight performance gains but like most engine breathing mods , you'd only get the benefit and saftey if it's mapped in. Glad to here it got a clean bill of health on the dyno .. . Now you can spend all you spare time and cash on v power to keep you grinning [emoji39]

I've had a few gm's in the past too just don't mention Honda some of the boys on here love to kick in a vtec [emoji55] feel free to jump in on any of the threads . start a build thread to track your progress with pics if you like [emoji6]

Have you got any codes on the ecu ? checked all relays and fuses both under the bonnet and under the drivers side kick panel . If you've been running it low on fuel did you take the fuel line off after the fuel filter or before (could the filter be blocked)

When you start it then it stalls, will it start up straight away if you prime the pump again by turning the key back to 0 and turn the key to start it again ? Have you checked the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator ? As it might just be starting on the initial pump prime and surge in pressure. If the fpr is ok it does sound like something is cutting the "constant " power to the pump that it should have when running .