Scoobyghost

http://www.scoobyparts.com/oil-pressure-oil-temp-gauge-fitting-kit-pink Link for parts you need if using the depo 4-1. Also grab yourself some wire, soldering iron and connector blocks if necessary. The wires from the gauge are rather short but you will need to wire into a supply anyway.

Would advise against using sandwich plates. Cheap versions leak and hard to monitor. You can buy a T piece that will fit into the oem oil pressure hole and it allows you to keep the oem pressure switch. For temp it's best to go for the bung that's located over #3 piston. That's the usual hot-spot due to being so close to the turbo and uppipe. You'll also need an adapter for the temp sensor as the sensor uses a different thread pattern to the engine. I'll find the link for the parts.

Would be nice to get the chassis number and do some digging. Never know it might turn up on here or the rb5 forum.

When I tried them they fobbed me off a lot. I ordered mine from a German seller on eBay. I'll see if he still has them A bit pricier than some others but here it is. Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.de/itm/112122929717 He also has water temp versions but you lose oil pressure. Not a worthy trade.

It was only a cat d! What a mess of it. Be gutted as the new owner to find out it was in such a horrific accident.

We seem to have taken a little detour from the original topic. Let's get back on subject for op please rather than quibble about the cost of work.

We could always start using inHg to really break the mold 😂

Nevermind the points on your licence. Real punishment is when you mow down pedestrians on a zebra crossing. Happened to me a while back. One side had already stopped so began to cross as a clown on the other side rounded a corner clearly looking down.

I'm the same but opposite. Can't be trying to maths the psi to bar each time. I thinks it's all personal preference. Much like Fahrenheit and Celsius. They both tell you what it is just different scaling. You could argue psi is more accurate because it uses a broader scale.

Bar all the way.

Try to contact a few Subaru breakers. I got mine from down here, a place called East Kent Subaru. He will post but I expect it to be pricey considering the weight.

I had the same issue when needing a replacement bearing. I was worried about pulling the old bearing and finding the hub scored or damaged. That on top of wanting to do the work myself to save labour cost. Always a risk buying second hand parts especially bearings and hubs. There's no way of checking what mileage car they came from. I've been lucky so far as the hub I swapped has been on over a year now.

Agree with the three options mentioned. I have a 4-1. Nice little gauge.

Welcome to the club. I'd have loved a WR1 originally. Not many of them left in a decent condition now.

Can't get over that. I told parcelmonkey but no reply about it.

I also went for an RCM pump. I've had it for roughly 18 months and 0 issues. As savage says any new pump won't need to be mapped. http://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/24-rcm-uprated-fuel-pump-1992-2008

Good to hear it was that exhuast leak rather than the dodgy pump. You've got a spare now though 😁😂

Ally is the way forward for droplinks. One of the simplest upgrades to handling. I think I paid £80ish for front and rear.

Possibly damaged the exhaust and 3rd video shows the sound.

Just pray he didn't take down your address or you'll have foam fingers arriving in the post [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

Exactly. I'd think it's rather neglible. 1l fuel weighs roughly 1kg. Full tank is 60l or 60kg. Half being 30kg is going to make less difference than carrying one passenger 🙄🤔

Full tank is more weight to carry so uses more fuel. I doubt it's a lot but there lies the logic.

Welcome to the club.

Won't pass with the decat on so I hope you have a friendly tester 😜

If it's a classic you can perform a ecu diagnostic check for any fault codes if they've popped up. I'll add the link to the guide soon