Scoobyghost

Are the turbo and decat mapped in? Bin that manual boost controller off. You are likely hitting a fuel cut off. When the ecu reads boost has gone too high it'll cut boost to avoid damaging itself.

Agree with that but for modified id always go for PFR7B. You're more than welcome to bring it over and we can do the plugs for a test.

These are the ones I pulled after 10k

Are they quite old? I have some 10k mile old PFR7B plugs of you'd like to test them. Kept them for this exact reason.

Anyone up for an Xbox session tonight?

With the extra torque the casing flexes allowing the gears to slightly separate.

Stick some bracing on the outside of the box. It'll stop it flexing so much and may make it last longer.

You on Xbox? Ive been using the free trial. Didn't fancy spending an extra 13 quid for 3 days early

Removing the air box is two 10mm bolts. You'll still need to move the filter. I'll try to video my whistle tomorrow.

A lot of fun online 😄

Ive had it done on a different car. Despite figures showing improvement I didn't notice anything better for the car.

Faulty actuator?

1) Can't help with a link I'm afraid 2) Standard boost is 0.9bar or 12psi 3) Recommended interval for classics were 3 years or 40k. They increased it to 5 years and 50k on newage. If you have no history be safe and get it done. Belts aren't known for snapping. If there's a failure there's more chance it's a tensioners or pulley. 4) No violent jolt for me. Are you high in the rev range giving it some beans or just plodding along? 5) Chances are that's the turbo you can hear. Enjoy it 😉

Even second hand long engines are 800ish. If you find a short engine you'll still need to pay out for machine work and head gasket labour. Ive never known an oil change to cause so much of an issue. Must've had a huge amount of movement on the rod to blow a hole in the block at idle too. Quick eBay search returns this: Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191978483389 Buying second hand is such a huge risk. Most classics are now on high miles and even then there's no way to prove what mileage is on that engine. If it's a breakers yard there may be a car sat there with 60k on the clock that somehow has spawned 3 different engines all with those magic words "low mileage". You could end up back in the same position in 2 months time only £800 more out of pocket.

With my panel and decat i get a nice whistle at -0.2 up to 0 bar

Welcome to the club. What's the dismantling for?

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=9596&cat=0&sub=0&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=Short%20block&searchPart= Quick and easy option. Out of curiosity, how did you manage that?

Air filters don't -always- need to be mapped in. It's not unheard of for a cone filter to cause issues for the car. Panel filters are much cheaper than induction kits. A filter on its own will give minimal power gains. Might get lucky and have 5 extra horses. Decat downpipe will give a moderate gain in power but 100% has to be mapped in to avoid fueling issues and overboost. Air filter, decat and a map could get you 20-40hp depending on other supporting mods. I have a Cosworth panel filter, decat 3" turbo back and a remap. I went from 211hp to 276hp. I also had a RCM fuel pump and three port boost solenoid fitted for help and safety. Each car is unique in how it will take to different mods. It's never clear cut as this mod gives X amount of gain. Age, condition and type of fuel can also effect possible gains. Even the temperature 😂😅 Gotta make sure to close up all these loopholes.

I know some tasty b roads over in Essex. We have the monthly meet first Saturday of each month so you're more than welcome to pop down for a chat. Details can usually be found in the south east regional meet section.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=What+is+heat+soak Save your money on the remap. Handling and weight reduction are the way forward for N/A.

The pill is tiny and sits inside a boost pipe near the turbo. Borrowed these pictures from Google. If you still.have the UK 2 port solenoid set up it will look like this.

UK turbos boost at 0.9bar/12psi. Also look for the restrictor pill in the boost lines. Some newer owners are unaware of them and bin the whole pipe when changing for silicon lines.

First port of call is to remove that boost controller. Stock boost is 0.9bar or 12.6psi. Id have a strange inkling that boost controller isn't doing anything at all. 8psi would be giving you actuated boost pressure. Try to chase all boost pipes and reset everything to factory setting to rule out "modified" parts. If you're using a boost gauge it may also be worth checking the wiring for earthing issues or poor power supply.

Had my alignment readjusted by original company. Wasn't happy. Went to another place and it was still out. Spent 4 hours of my morning getting it sorted.

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=5781&cat=96&sub=97&sec=143&var=38&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= On the front suspension you need two camber bolts and two standard bolts. The camber bolts sit in the top slot.