Jay762

Wotcha and welcome -- there is a chap on facebook that can repair the keys and you can sync them yourself, ill see if I can find the details

A quick search and your model comes up with a 068 sizing - 266mm x 175mm x 220mm. Will this fit in your space as there are plenty of options for this sizing cranking amps from 68AH to 75AH

That is a lovely clean example - good luck with the sale

Good luck with the sale - I am assuming these are 5 x100 pcd with a 56.1 centre and offset et48? might help with other Subaru model fitment?

Welcome - What condition is your down pipe in as you can get a weld in cat however. I have a car that has been decatted and passes emissions no problem but it has had a map on it that matches the components on the car, hi flow filter straight through pipe etc. and burns efficiently. It is possible to pass emissions with an engine in good health without a cat in place. That doesnt make it legal but it does indicate that your cat was probably masking for a long time another issue with your engine and can no longer cope. A weld in replacement cat may do the trick for a bit but I would investigate a bit further as I believe this is a symptom not the problem

Not sure about the engine layout as not familiar with the XV but given the Subaru diesel plant is not the best I think the idea of a petrol conversion is a good one. Not sure how a turbo failure means crank and bearing wear? I could understand if the blades disintegrated and went through the engine there would be damage though - How bad was the failure? Before you give it to a garage for investigation why not get some of the oil and send it off for analysis - That will then tell you if you have any ring, crank / bearing wear. Its a relatively small cost before a garage starts pulling things apart.

Check the diameter of the axle stub that goes into the diff

I dont know that - I saw a couple of used ones on ebay but I dont know if that is just running the risk of leaks still???

here is a replacement https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=10622&cat=96&sub=97&sec=142&var=85&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart=

Not sure on your model but I saw a fix to a similar problem using rubber tubing that was fed down the inside of the door rubber seal to give it more resistance - can you do that?

Wotcha and welcome Matt - Six stars is six stars, you would still get a wave from me 🙂

A good workhorse for someone - good luck with the sale

We have a couple of P1 owners on the forum not sure about location in relation to the shoot though - Does it have to be a P1 or will a Type R also fit the criteria?

What wont help is I found some of the cables change colour when they go through connectors - For example the cable actually going to the light in the hatch is a different colour to what goes along the length of the car. There is a connector mounted under the rear a pillar and the different wires meet there. I would start at the fuse panel and see what is there for the rear fog light. That might give you a colour lead to trace to the rear of the vehicle, you can also check for 12v when the stalk switch is triggered?

The bit I have joined to is the 12v supply from the front of the car, I dont know if it comes directly from the stalk switch or if it is relay activated. The rest of it goes to the light cluster in the hatch (now redundant on mine)

Wotcha and welcome Tom - Great story, feel free to get stuck in, all friendly on here. I also had an RX inbetween turbos and it never let me down - is still going strong now as the inlaws daily so not gone far - it does have a spoiler though 🙂

keep us posted

WOW 😬

Hi - can you take some shots of your engine bay, I cannot fond any of my RX at the moment. The MAF should be on your air box next to the connecting tube to the manifold and the MAP connected to a tube but bracket mounted to your manifold MAF is item 3 on the diagram https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/v-2010-subaru-impreza--2-5i--2-5l-h4-gas/engine--air-cleaner

Yes this is on the RIGHT hand side (Off / Driver side in UK) Yes you will be taking quite a few panels off unfortunately 😬

Not sure how oil near the turbo indicates bottom end issue? I would be looking at oil breather, turbo seal, turbo oil supply hose, turbo oil return...... The new turbo cost sounds like they are sourcing a unit from Subaru. It can be a pain to replace dependent on how seized the nuts and bolts are. I sourced a refurb unit (with upgraded core) from fastline in Northampton for about £650 so then it is just labour and gaskets. For a short block rebuild I would have said more like 3k but that relates to what you find once the engine is in bits and the type of items / quality / spec used in the reassembly - any engineering work done to bores, head skim etc (Subarus can go oval over time)

It is a straight forward fix if you have some tools and a jack to take the gearbox load you could do it yourself, just need to take your time putting the new seal in, not to push too far. My concern would also be clutch contamination, maybe factor in cost of a replacement just in case.

Wotcha and welcome. Feel free to share photos, get stuck in - all friendly on here 🙂

Finally found what I was looking for. This is the positive wire going to the rear fog light in my hatch RED/Silver

Ok - my circuit diagram check so far is twin reversing lights....Ill check my other manuals