Jay762

To effect a repair wont be impossible but it will be a big job broken out that is for sure

thats what it is all about - learn something pass it on :)

great post Miggs - take your time and the pipe replacement will be no problem ;)

running an SCDB with decent liners plus all the associated uprated studs, gaskets etc should be fine and will have the benefits associated with cooling flow around the head These chaps offer stuff off the shelf http://www.ra-motorsport.co.uk/Product/Category/EK20101130021332

a replacement top mount possibly with a guard as well sounds ideal for your requirements ;)

That is an issue - wrt the dash its a time vs money vs space issue, it is a pita but would be cost effective in the long run would give you something pretty special but will mean taking up room. Do you have space to store the bits once removed including the dash and getting rid of the shell in the short term?

liking the fishing line idea

If it was me and I had the room to have both around whilst I worked on them I would strip it and scrap the shell If you found that amount of rust in one place chances are it is in a few more places beside so to fix properly you are looking at a majority strip anyway we'll be here as a place to vent your frustrations along the way ;) with a bit of patience you could recover the caliper if you had to

wow whitehaven there is a blast from the past - ended up there on a really random weekend once....

It came up when discussing / researching engine transplants as the mounts are all the same the initial assumption was plug and play or mix and match but that is not the case ;)

That is a great colour - hope you track it down

Nice one Gaz!!

I don't know the full details yet as I am still looking into the differences but what I do know so far is you would be looking at a later model ecu and loom + sensors which may need mounting on your existing block and merging into your existing loom. The mechanics of it are pretty straight forward though in comparison

That is a nice original car - good luck

pics and an idea of price do tend to generate more interest

Wow - well surprised, hope you get a good price for it

looking forward to it :)

doh of course you did - I did read your initial post honest just had brain fade in between :P

Yup that does sound like a make and break, make one good from two rough and sell the rest

great use of child labour :D

that does look like it will need welding - don't know if it is an MOT failure but that is a big hole to fill

:lol: :lol: :lol: funny typo (at least I'm assuming it was a typo) :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

you might have a noisy bearing, thin screw driver on pump and against ear will help with that but otherwise it will mean taking it off to check pump wheel etc

easiest way is some clear tubing on the return line to the radiator that way when the engine is up to temp and the thermostat opens you can see the liquid flowing into the rad. you can pull the covers off and check the pump itself is being operated by the belt, this doesn't rule out an internal failure though

it sounds like the coolant isn't flowing around the system - if you have already changed the thermostat I would now investigate the pump itself