Jay762

And the associated electrical string, relays and fuse mounts, wire for the loom extension matches ok the green yellow isnt perfect but hey ho

Well function over form - price you have to pay for increased performance - good enough for RCM gobstoppers - maybe consider a screamer pipe to compensate??

way - hey shiney objects 😍

Try this site for alternative lights - I have used the 20Twenty brand LED alternatives and been very pleased, better than OSRAM Nightbreakers https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/subaru-outback-suv-2010-10.html

hopefully that will throw up an error code that can be used in doagnosis

ON the website it says its fine hoever I would check with OPIE oils or look for the subaru own long life or super coolant dependant what colour you currently have

Yes no need for polybushes in your case - def OEM replacements

sorry - drawing a blank - even the haynes manuals exclude DERV.

IMO - if you are going the aftermarket, superpro brand poly bush etc route then complete the work yourself. If you are happy with OEM standard buy the whole unit. You could then recoup some of the cost by refurbing your own parts - bit of soda / vapour blasting and then selling

Well hopefully it will help - should give them something to go on anyway

This one is from US but may include JDM / EU models also http://www.mediafire.com/file/2msrzh8rx46e8q4/USDM_Legacy_FSM_2010_%2528BM-BR%2529.zip/file

would this help? https://cardiagn.com/2010-legacy-and-outback-wiring-diagram/

Assuming you have not got a JDM import with the 2.0 twin scroll and you have a 2.5 currently you should be on 296 tehn with what you plan that takes you into the PPP / 330s area which gives circa 330bhp. Now I had no issues running 330 bhp in my first STI hatch however you will read many tales of unfortunate ringland failure. A decent map will go a long way to ensuring this does not happen as it will ensure No 4 pot does not run lean at the higher revs. Budget in the future to replace the pistons with forged items, also look at a timing belt kit funds (due at 40K) A cheaper mod is the cylinder cooling pipe discussed on another thread - this, allegedly will help a lot with the heat on No4 pot which will also contribute to ringland failure. I will be completing this work as part of my re installation. https://www.blingstrom.com/modmonday-sti/2019/3/17/getadomtune-cylinder-4-cooling-mod-showing-cylinder-4-that-you-still-care https://www.iagperformance.com/GDT-Cylinder-4-Chamber-Cooling-System-WRX-STI-p/gdt-1005.htm

Does this help?

Dependant on your driving style I would every 5-6k if you like to push it. Failing that 10k or anually They will run on std unleaded but I would use an additive to keep the pipes and injectors clean - not just about the octane level with quality fuel

Wotcha and welcome - feel free to get stuck in, post photos etc all friendly on here 👍

Wotcha and welcome - take one for a test drive, you will get more torque and power through the range than the s2K but it will not have the pot hole tolerance of the Q5. Also fellow scooby drivers will flash lights and wave at you 😊

yup - been there 😊

Agree with a new pump - often overlooked, look at a 2.1 or 2.35 stroker type builds if you are starting with a 2.0 block

Result 👍

you should be able to change the loom from your old engine straight over incl sensors so your ECU should not get upset

Wotcha and welcome 👍

Hi - pictures and a price generally help to market a motor a little better, feel free to post

Having done a search on the model code you provided, the main connector (White Top left on yours) looks exactly the same as mine (White Bottom right). Now whilst I would not want to make an immediate assumption they are exactly the same it may give you a starter for ten working through the pins themselves. Mine Clarion PF2945 Yours Clarion pf- 3492 Pin out for the pf 2945 highlighted in red refers to the white connector in question - ignore the other connectors as that is for cd players etc

No turbo on this one its NA same as my RX