Jay762

Just picked the car up from the safety recall for airbags brake pipe inspection and relay replacement - no problems with the alarm so they are saying interference.... Think I will be interfering with the siren if it continues to go off a 2 in the morning 😡

Adjusted hand brake Found fog light bulb broken and when removed the unit as well found the little bit of fly eye sticker was hiding a broken lens. Bulb replaced with MTEC items and will try and source a unit from a breaker end of month Also confirmed issue with CV boot which I will get booked in to do - have done them before but it is so much easier with a ramp so will happily pay someone to do this job for me

Want to get a set of these made up, is there a vector file or such like I can send the company?

New battery in - first night of alarm not going off overnight.... monitoring will continue

sounds like a plan

yes it would but from what I remember it is not always clear the code points to that - have you got the battery on charge at the moment to try again? I know mine currently has a duff battery (new one on way) and if it has not kept enough charge it will crank but not fire and then eventually just have the starter motor relay rattling

That does seem low for batt voltage - did you knock teh crank sensor when adjusting the timing?

Booked in for the airbag and brake leak recall checks with local dealer, asked about the alarm going off, they reckon it is the battery - particularly as we have just fitted a tracker. Installed is a DM005 which is slightly smaller than the DL005 recommended by the online sites so have ordered a heavy duty item which also supposed to be good for tuned engines with a slightly higher cranking figure.

There was a set of Rotas on FB but I think they went quite quickly

hmmm it is saying you cannot receive messages?? Is your box full?

From an MOT point of view it may pass as you can read the letters and numbers from the set distance but from a DVLA perspective I believe only on a old landrover

Yes it has the big disc and 6 pot caliper conversion on the front, standard brembos on rear

So after a longer than planned gap away from boosted goodness a turbine compressor flat four configuration now sits on the drive I collected it with 38k on the clock Apparently a Scooby Clinic build it has the following Spec: 2008 STI, 36K miles, 3000 miles since forged engine build 5 years ago, 6 cd dash changer, Iphone connection, 505 bhp & 525 ft lb on 20% meth Syvecs S6 GP ECU with syvecs expander Toucan touch screen display Engine: JDM Hatch Spec C Dual AVCS Heads SMG linered EJ257 block Mahle Forged pistons Manley rods ARP Studs Cosworth Gasket Twinscroll sump New Billet SC46 (high flow turbine) Perrin front mount intercooler Miltek 3' exhaust with quad pipes Catch can Forge dumpvalve SG Motorsports Air / oil separator Drivetrain: New Forged Rays alloy 18x9.5'' Pirreli P0 265/35/18 tyres (6mm tread) AP 6 pot brakes 330mm disc with Pagid RS29 pads Suspension: Ohlins DFV Road & track Coilovers Perrin Parts: Fuel Rail Top Feed kit with lines Inlet Hose 2.4'' Cold Air Intake with filter Front anti roll bar 25mm Rear anti roll bar 25mm Front Endlinks Spherical Bearings Rear Endlinks Spherical Bearings PSRS Offset Kit (castor bushes) Super Steer System (Roll centre extenders) short shifter & shifting bush Radiator hoses Pro 3 port boost solenoid Map sensor Black FMIC radiator shroud with billet mounts pulley cover Initial work done - Noticed rear discs were rusty with fronts shiney - Rear pads were seized solid with crud, calipers threads stripped on removal so new rear brembo discs and pads. (Rusty ones will be up for sale once i have checked for any signs of warping) Noticed a wheel stud had a thread stripped - replaced with new, found the guilty wheel nut! Rear HEL braided hoses to match front ones and remove OEM rubber Flush through with 5.1 Stainless steel bleed nipples for the front calipers - rusted originals took a bit of blow torching to free up but fortunately no threads stripped Perrin front strut brace to match the rest of the engine bay Kenwood double din unit with NAV and reversing camera and retaining steering wheel controls loom - that took a bit of head scratching and initially sent the unit back as screen went blank - combo of settings and wiring sorted it. Also used an ICP sourced smaller stereo unit surround - works better than the black plastic adapter kit I bought as the unit has a dial which is hard to turn against the black plastic - would work ok with switches only so will possibly be putting that up for sale soon as well if teh RX doesnt get a head unit upgrade Rally Armour OEM fit mudflaps - pricey but they do fit really well Engine flush and oil change Front diff and gearbox fluid change Rear diif fluid change - Millars goodness all around Some genuine Subaru WRX STI Mats - expensive but **** - not as good as the first lot I had, or the plain impreza ones I removed - no rubber spike backing no thick pile carpet - thought I had got some ebay knock offs - will be feeding back to Subaru UK The Toucan 2 unit has blank screened can communicate to laptop so tried a version upgrade but load failed with check sum error. JT innovations will 'de brick' it at no charge so need to get that to them. Relocated fog lamp to the two reflector positions on rear bumper and wired in a second reverse light resprayed the front lower grill with matt black plasticote as the paint was flaking off and showing gold metal underneath high beam upgrade with MTEC bulbs PIAA windscreen wipers (Always the first thing I purchase for a new motor) Stuff in pipeline New front fog lamps (MTEC) one of the existing is damaged with connectors exposed Book in for a diagnostic / health check on rolling road as before it locked out antilag and LC could not be activated Oil temp guage (probably a 60mm defi) Actually driving it now it has the once over and working up to turning traction control off - sideways with it all on was a slight surprise, but fun. The front brakes are still wooden (IMO) even with bigger calipers and discs - investigate the master cylinder in comparison to the RX which whilst not as powerful gives more feel and progressive braking over the STI. Sorting the corrosion and body work - There has been some damage repair - apparently a gouge / gash down the drives side, loads of overspray and bad blending, will try and sort with Angelwax products and my mops but we shall see Find out if there is a sump baffle in place Find out if Subaru can reset the alarm so we have a pin code A mirror self closing loom addition New wheel nuts as they are corroded and wont polish up Book a track day - possible brands hatch full circuit or something closer to me 🙂 Generally tidying up as the underside all looks as if it has been parked in a pond for a while possibly the OCD in me will start removing bits to have them powder coated, particularly if I ever park up next to @savage bulldogs, @salsa-king or @majik_thighs Ill know there is a furry undercarriage where theirs are all smooth.....

Received a renewal email today from Hastings. Very politely worded saying "Here is your renewal quote blah blah blah... It is a reduction on last year...." Quote was over £600 Last years payment £430!! A quick chat with Meerkats online and a quote of £280 returned Just goes to show - auto renewal or plain acceptance of a quote should not be done without validation

Wotcha and welcome

75w/90 gives consistency over the biggest temperature range of the recommended types, not sure its going to stop the whine though

As above this is a known issue that mostly affects the legacy models, the coating is an anticorrosion layer but wont seal if the damage has already been done - stick to your guns 👍

wotcha and welcome - sorry to hear about the failure - if you are going to keep teh car do a rebuild - if you are planning on getting rid in 12 months replace

sounds like a dvd has been put in there?

Have you reset it since you have owned it?

someones getting an awesome early xmas pressie 😋

My 2008 with Prodrive kit and map showed 22 - 24 running around urban 24 for was more consistent when using sport mode more often - on a run was better, could get 35 - 40. On a weekend though it often read 18 - 20 🙄

my 2.5 hatch would boost to 1.5 bar (S# mode) which is about 21 psi - is your gauge plumbed in correctly?

Try running sport mode this should give you a couple more mpg - there is a thread on here somewhere (think it was Salsa or magik thighs??) the standard map has 0.5 bar sport runs 1bar and sport # has 1.5 bar boost - he found running in sport gave higher mpg - I found the same but had to remind myself to select sport mode all the time. The bespoke map I was going for would have had the standard map with increased boost to run similar to the sport mode saving me messing about. My RX only indicates 28mpg urban driving so not great - can get 35 - 40 on a run though which was also achievable in my STI

even though engine capacity is the same?? If that is the case then loosing the middle resonator and the prodrive back box will give you the rumble you are looking for