Jay762

That sounds like a plan - then if you do kerb them accidentally you wont be upset

Wotcha and welcome - not just carbon build up but having oil being blown into your system which changes the mixture and therefore doesn't run as efficiently

Wotcha and welcome - given where you are located I would go for a set of steels with winter tyres then look for some used larger alloys to have the lower profile tyres for the summer

Go for fabricating some brackets and you could knock up a cardboard tunnel then go for fibreglass or alloy fabrication 👍

my 2p go for the 350z and tweak it, one of teh mgs has had a long term project and there are gains to be made for not a lot of dosh or the 330i and keep it standard

I seem to recall a previous thread where it was the rubber seal surrounding the boot at fault - can you post some pictures?

Hi all - thought I would post this as a reference for any other auto drivers. The auto gearbox was jolting on starts (particularly hills) and during slow moving traffic with a real lurch when just pressing lightly on the throttle. I got to the point of thinking about a refurb as we are not the first owners and how it has previously been driven is unknown. I did an ecu reset recently due to new wider bore exhaust Driving now it would appear all the jolting and harsh engagement has now gone 🙂

Very clean - good luck with the sale 👍

WRT the tyres - whilst the motor is only worth financially 1k to you that actual physical capability value is beyond that plus given you have quite a bit if poke under the bonnet I would not be afraid to spend on tyres and brakes. I would look at a good dual purpose like the michelin cross climate particularly as the winter is coming up - another thread has mentioned a deal on at cost co online at the moment for these tyres.

lovely motor - good luck with the sale

Reset the ECU on my RX now exhaust is on coupled with K&N panel - idle revs are immediately steadier but needs a few more miles done as it is a bit unresponsive at the moment

Wotcha and welcome - what a bargain!!

I think you are correct in associating the flap location and movement with the squeal. Dependant on how much they would discount the model I would consider it and then pull the lot apart. I disassembled my 08 STI to remove a load of leaves from the fan as someone previously had removed the filter. It all comes apart quite easily

Car looks mint - surprised it has not gone already??

Dont own one myself but would use the plastic under tray as a guide or mock one up in cardboard first

Just to make it easier... https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/subaru/impreza-wrx/subaru-impreza-type-r-v4-lightweight/9174839

Sounds good fingers crossed - the picture doesn't show the small rodent in place to turn the blower wheel - maybe when you are selecting aircon it is too cold for the little fella 😀

Wotcha and welcome - There is a pollen filter in the glovebox but that wouldn't give a squeak as you describe - dont know about a secondary blower this shows the pollen filter and blower https://parts.northendsubaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_STI-S-SEDAN-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD/_54104_6025965/HEATER-SYSTEM-HEATER-SYSTEM-BLOWER--COOLING-UNIT/G12-720-03.html

Mine isnt too sporty unfortunately

As above - take a test drive as completely different experiences. pound for pound you can get bigger power from an STI but it is a bigger motor with AWD not a lightweight more focussed RWD

Any models in particular?

yup most suppliers are not too keen giving information about rival kit - however given the information from @Mr B just factor that into your gasket size as you will need to purchase those anyway??

I looked into the cartridge options in preparation and would have an issue using one of the roller bearing types which were up for between 150 - 260 quid. I used the 270 and 360 non roller bearing kits years ago on my nissan 200sx and whilst prices have reduced somewhat today they seem a bargain at 25 - 50 quid I didn't get as long out of them as I wanted - getting the turbo off the nissan on my drive with the engine in situ was a proper ballache, really hard to get to the 3 downpipe bolts so was not best pleased when they failed but the main thing before you start a turbo rebuild is make sure you understand why it failed in the first place, normally oil starvation or bad heat up / cool down cycles boiling the oil off and address that first otherwise your investment will be short lived consider budgeting for new oil supply / return pipes at the same time (lesson learnt the expensive way)

great vid - awesome performance

legacy and outback are the same platforms but different springs giving more lift on the outback. After doing some more digging I think your wheel set up is 5x100 with an et of 55 so whilst a quick check on those wheels advertised just to confirm that I would wonder if they would clear your brakes so 15" may not be big enough as you are driving a spec b which is a bit more potent these are what I was considering for my Impreza with Michelin cross climate tyres https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steel-Spare-Wheel-Winter-SUBARU-Impreza-16-inch-16-5-stud-x-100-PCD-ET-55-9565/292063784098?epid=1523601817&hash=item44005baca2:m:mfQ-wwDekWK4nsL216u5Puw:rk:1:pf:0&var=591043118897