Tidgy

Given the common ringland failure seems to be a good idea to sack them off and get a decent set while its apart

First off RIP volvo :( Service issues are a myth, parts arn't hard to come by and cost wise depends if you go to a dealer or not.

If there standard pistons (even sti ones) i wouldn't bother.

any dyno graphs? before and after the mods would also be good

ej20 engine with ej25 liners? eh

go a speak to engine tuner mate, they can advise on best course of action inc turbo, fuel system etc

There is zero point in going water injection at that level of tune. Sack off the TMIC and get a FMIC fitted.

http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_139&product_id=131 Can't find a direct link to a 321, most seem to just say call for price

Old tech. Much better options out there like SC42 or MD321 etc given better responce and better peak power

at 400 front mount is the way to go.

Then you have to worry about getting it all plumbed in, carrying the water around refilling it, heat soak at low speed etc etc

Yes there is, as said its been tested to death and proven FMIC is the best option other than in the case of a tiny turbo (TD04). It simply comes down to physics don't lie. Heat rises and top mounts only get limited airflow from the scoop

If you get down to calculating it to that extent then yes there is a difference, however the difference isn't enough to be noticeable when driving. I remember there was a calculation branded around ages ago, but it was flawed because it took 3k rpm as a constant, not a varilable and also assumed the same constant flow rates. It's like reverse inlet manifolds, they do make some difference, but alot of work for not that much of a gain.

No point in replacing the top mount on yours. You;d be paying alot of money to upgrade from the STI one. Engine tuner down in plymouth are the closest place i'd use to you.

Testing showed from 300bhp they allow mappers more head room, 300bhp became 320bhp due to to extra timing and such. Lag is a misconception as well, poor setup is the general cause. Only time when a front mount is pointless is on a TD04 turbo. After that its a much better solution. It was tested back to back by jap performance mag (standard top mount, uprated top mount and front mount), plus the late great harvey smith did alot of testing and experimenting on the very subject. Problem comes down to poor airflow being cause by the scoop. Wind tunnel showed you loose a chuck of airflow into the scoop due to air ballooning. I can't find the impreza image, but while the pic below is an svx, the areo is considerably better than an impreza and you can see you loose a section of air directly above the bonnet. Remove that from the area of the scoop and your reducign the airflow to the top mount considerably. I get your point about trimming the bumpers though. personally i'd want the performance gain ;)

My hawk had heat issues at 400, by the time you have fannied around with heat blankets and thermal barriers etc etc you may as well just got a front mount. It's a subject thats been done to death for many years and simply put front mount is by far the best option for performance.

Aye, to be fair mine wasnt exactly built to run standard power haha

welcome to the world of properly built engines. to give it some context mine was well into 5 figures.

cheers :D

Hard to tell, depends who mapped it, if they were any good and also whats changed since it was mapped.

10:1 is pretty rich. 11:1 is more like where i'd expect it to be on full chat. idle/off boost 13:1 ignore the initial wabble, was the ecu struggling to cope

not gonna be a cheap fix by the looks of it.

Ah fair enough, will be alot easier to sell as a running car then non runner with no mot.

welcome, does look tidy