Tidgy

great, i had pedders ezi fit before, and they are alot better than those, firm but not back breaking hard or crashy. cant fault them tbh. You can also fit edc controler on it which adjusts them to the road if you wanna go full out 😄

short version, there aint any, they are cheap for a reason. i run tein flex z on mine and they are about £850 + fitting, for that sort of budget im not aware of any better, alot seem to be to hard and make the ride crashy

i dont think check engine light comes on for afr's, how do you know its a fueling issue?

don;t know anywhere down in londaon im afraid, if you dont mnd traveling scoobyclinic up at chesterfield have done hundreds, if not thousands of them. just a warning, although you may know, you wont know the full extent of the damage till its stripped and outer wing removed, may find its got at the suspension tops in the worst case.

looking at the leak figures alone you can see the engine is otaly goosed, sorry to her 😞 hope you get somewhere with the seller

have to confess not sure whos down that way, sure other folks will know

The short version is the ecu is looking for the bits you've removed, you need to get it mapped out. My advice is stay well clear of racedungnamics, wouldn't trust the muppet to map my toaster.

Previous owner could have moded it and then returned it to stock when sold on, happens alot. if your getting it mapped then doesnt really matter either way

The stock oil filter is fine, mines setup as a 500bhp daily and runs stock, i also know full blown race cars still running them 🙂 A good way to check all ok is chuck it on a dyno, can check AFR's, det etc etc that wont be shown up by the ecu alot of the time.

Best way to get 350bhp, sell the car and buy an sti, vf35, exhaust and map. There are alot of below the surface difference between a n/a and even a wrx which makes it not cost viable to do. Prob not what you want to hear, but buying the turbo'd car is a better starting point than a sport and modding it.

1st thing is are you sure its a wrx-s? i know it sounds daft to ask but people rebadge/modify and sell cars as something they arnt to bumpt he price up (wrx sold as sti is a very common one although alot easier to spot) Second, which is my guess as to whats happened, has it ever been modified? If its been moded and then returned to stock it may have a stock wrx map applied to it instead of a wrx-s

The non turbo engines seem pretty bullet proof. removing the turbo removes alot of the strain on the engine and rest of the components.

welcome

Proh rocker cover gasket, pretty common but get it done asap

if thats the case then you unlikley to see anythign with an endoscope. WIll need a strip and inspect

hmm, tbh does sound very dodgy, but if he has opffered to fix it then that might be your cheapest option

hard to tell, it will need a leak down test at least. But i suspect so https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-general-1/1060804-has-ra-motorsport-in-perth-closed.html

Looks like Ra motorsport who went bust.

just be aware you may need the map looking at if returning it to stock. Cobra do track friendly quieter systems, also sports cat systems which may be more to your taste, so might be worth looking at that as an option if you have no luck finding one

yeah can always be removed if needs be. May be worth seeing what your banks policy is on faulty goods.

how did you pay for the car by the way?

hmm, not sure what options you ahve them if im honest. I suspect its gonna be a case of get it up to him to get fixed. What garage is it?

Was it a trade deal or a personal deal? engine ol grade sounds ok, varys depending who you ask but 10/60 isnt uncommon

Welcome, 1, as above 2, picture looks standard to me, what do you think is missing? 3, as above, anti corrosion stuff, nerwer cars seem the get dipped in them they chuck that much on them haha 4, mpg depends how you drive it, but 12 seems low, Are you running it on vpower/99? does it have any mods bar the dumpvalve? can you get it on a rolling road to find out whats going on? 5, rusty bits are pretty normal 6, Regular oil changes, 3k or 5k depending on how you drive it, if hard more regular changes. Always keep on top of maintenance, running it on decent fuel 99 ron. If theres an issue (eg stutters on power, check engine light etc etc) dont try to drive through it, get it checked out.

I would always make sure you balance out changes you make if upgrading, so if you put uprated on the front then do the same on the rear as it will change the balance of the car. Unless of course your planning to change the balance like with roll bars. Whiteline are pretty good as a brand.