Tidgy

Engine tuner is prob the closest to you

getting there, bet you cant wait 😄

Unless im mistaken the dyno is in the wrong mode, Should be in shoot_44, also looks like the gear ratio is set different to my old wrx. 'Shoot_44 Four cylinder 4WD passenger cars eg Subaru WRX' '3.536' Im not sure what 'shoot_AF' actually is. Do you know what gear it was in when they ran it?

Sounds like you have a boost leak that only opens up under load. Should just be a case of running through the system to find it.

haha, fingers crossed it turns out to be somethign minor

check its not blown the oil feed off the trubo or somethign daft, but i suspect the damage might be done 😞

could be a whole load of issues from overgeating the oil, to oil starvation when going round bends with high force, oil pump failure. if the oil has been dumped out you may have a hole in the block which coudl be cuased by the oil thinning out and metal on metal. Sounds like the oil temp may be the issue, asssuming you dont have a oil temp gauge?

As savage says, but what i can tell you is when the engines are stripped, experiance of dealing with dozens if not hundreds of 2.5 failures, finds the bearings are often found to be pinched and deformed, hence the rapid failure after.

has the engine been stripped and inspected or just diagnosed assemebled/running?

Short version is the crank bearings are often found to have been damaged. I know a few folks who have been told that is bad advice and not needed only to have had bottom end failures within 1000 miles of having just the headgasket done. One of which ended up becoming very nasty and going to court, which they won i should add, but the costs were pretty big for that As far as 2.0, they seem to be less suseptable to crank bearing damage when headgasket fails, how ever given the milage most of them are at now its pretty much a no brainer to refresh the bottom end while the heads are off

Just as a slight side note, FFS, LC and AL is prop not a great idea on the stock 2.5 as they are pretty fragile at best.

First off is it a 2.5 or a 2.0? also what mileage is it at? Full cost of rebuild wont be know till its stripped an assessed to see what damage has been done. 2.5 will be a full crank up rebuild when the headgasket goes and i would question the knowledge of anyone who says different. 2.0 will be very dependant on mileage and whats found, however given the 2.0 finished in 2005 engine will be at least 14 years old so i would expect a refresh of the crank bearings will be a good idea while it's apart. Build spec depends on what your plans are and how far you want to go.

Get it mapped properly, Cobb stuff is just flash maps and experience in the uk shows that is very bad.

Just a 2002 wrx with a body kit by the looks of it. As above depends if its your cup of tea or not.

Welcome

I'm amazed no one has snapped this up as a fun toy given the price 😮

Welcome

its pure pot luck tbh, some take a beating and keep on ticking, some get babied and fail if you look at them wrong, Does mean you can pick them up cheap with a failed engine and then have engine built to your spec so no issues later.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Forester got a list of engines on thats, only seems to be the 2.5NA thats chain driven in the forester, (FB engine)

Sell it and buy a manual, prob be cheaper and easier in the long run

i had kyb agx and eibach lowering springs on my old classic, wasa great combo

looks great, cant beat a bit of shiney shiney

road and track are very very different chap, after being around people and cars up at clinic that do track days and full blown races, road stuff just isn't up to it. takes a very small time to over heat road level brakes for example.

Yeah it is unfortunately 😞 2.5 especialy isnt great, suffers failures just from road use and struggles with heat on standard form. Shame your not nearer the midlands or I could show you round some if the track and race cars they run up at scoobyclinic, give you some idea of the issues.

If your running it in track then I wouldn't even contemplate just doing pads and disks, full AP6 pot setup is a much better option even given the cost. Also I would look at a few upgrades like oil cooler kit, baffled sump and fuel system upgrade to prevent fuel surge. Additional given the well known flaws of the 2.5 I would expect it to not last that long before it needs a full rebuild.