Tidgy

if they are the same age they will have the same underlying chassis, however there are wing, crash protection, and even material differences between them. that said, classic use same chassis bug-hawk use same chassis but with more structual differences hatch is individual and im not 100% on the ones following that

hawk wrx box is designed for 2.5 so longer ratios. i ran one at 390bhp 420 ftlb for about 14k miles no issue on a forged 2.5 hawk. options are, A - hawk 5 speed, at that power at the top of its limit (assuming 450) and no telling how long it will last B - Have your box rebuilt with a gear kit, but need to be carefull what gear kit you use as they have different ratings, also allows ratio changes and can be custom set for what youw ant (short ratio 1-4, lonnger motorway gear 5th), wont get much if any change from £2.5-3k. I have straight cut ppg gearkit in my old car and sounded epic haha C - 6 speed from an sti, which is by far best option simialr price to rebuild with gear kit, downside is its 90kg heavier setup had to decided on this option several times and tried em all haha, One thing i did note was you say your engine isnt forged, if not forget anythign about 350 unless your planning on rebuilding again.

came out to mine back end of last week and i've seen more life in a dodo. as flat6 says i chucked my ctek on it and its now always charged. i bought a cable extension for it so it now runs under my garage door and to the car without leving any connectors exposed.

I dont think there are that many on the road tbh so you wont get many owners joining forums, i only know one person ever who had one.

plenty of options rather than paddle clutch, some fo the single plate clutches are rated to well above 500, or you can look at twin plate. tbh i think the clutch is the least of your concerns of your going to track it.

just a slight note, i saw gearbox reinforcement plates mentioned, dont bother with them, waste of money

personaly i;d never buy a second hand engine, unless the person selling has done every single mile on the engine and you trust them completly, you have no idea what condition its actualy in. If your planning to keep the car then i'd look at getting the existing engine stripped and assessed and go from there.

i would never not do the bottom end on a 2.5 once the headgasket fails, risk of bearing damage is too high

dont bother with the 20g, will be laggy as. sedcond hand vf35 will do the job and wont break the bank, anything beyond that will push beyond the limit

welcome 🙂

im still amazed how much emphasis people put on dealer service history, i've found most decent independent specialists know considerably more than the dealers.

aye 🙂

no no i know you weren't dude 🙂 just from experiance i know how it adds up when you chuick in labour, and then vat is a killer as well, it's so easy to underestimate the costs, always worth shoipping round, but ive seen plenty of prices for 500 builds from different tuners and they all end up there or there abouts.

yeh, not that hard mail order

Going from stock to 500, 20k isn't far off when you brake down the costs. Bear in mind your not doing it in your garage, so you have to take into account labour and such. Engine build, clutch, turbo, ecu, front mount, exhaust, headers, intake, injectors, fuel pump etc etc plus a hole load of supporting mods you;d wanna run like oil cooler etc

thats the US and they are well known for pushing them to destruction and just replacing the engine as they are cheap as chips. Also WHP is calculated differently and is roughly BHP flywheel figure, so 500 at the wheels is around 625 ish at the fly, not a hope in hell of a stock 2.5 doing that, maybe for a couple of dyno pulls, but thats it. Be very very wary of any information you get on Facebook as its a well known for dodgy info and cowboy tuners/mappers

at 500bhp your looking at rebuild so will be pricey.

yep, very much so

cs400 was a forged engine from factory

Welcome, 400bhp without a rebuild? good luck that it manages to survive to that and i would expect a rebuild in less than 5k miles

In that case i'd wait and bide your time, instead of dumping a load of wasted money save it and buy a decent wrx in a couple of years,

welcome

you do realise the insurance will prob cost less on a wrx than modding it and then insuring it?

Don't bother, by the time you've done what you need to do to do it properly it will cost more than selling it and buying a wrx that has alot more upgrades like brakes, suspension etc etc

pop back to the dealer and get them to sort it as car will still be under warranty