kayzarh

3rd gear gone boom just now!

But yes completely forgot to answer your question, the clutch pushed in the car would stop making a ticking noise.

Yes, could be the clutch too, but the tell tail sign here is the ticking noise, even if the clutch is gone it should still move, even when i nuked my gearbox i could rev the !Removed! out of it and it would hop about. Eitherway you gotta take the gearbox or engine out. A clutch is a progressively wearing item, you will feel the clutch getting worse and worse. I recently done my clutch. When my clutch was dying, i did one hard pull and an upshift and i couldnt get into gear. It smelt of clutch. I then parked up and switched the car off, had a fight with the gearstick and it started going into gear. When you last drive it, did you feel, at any point of the rev range the car losing power and/or the revs climbing but the speed staying the same?

This happened to me before, im afraid afaik the gearbox has nuked itself

Hi guys, have you been annoyed by PHOTOBUCKET P500 error? You can download THIS extension for google chrome, and it will remove the error. REMEMBER to go into extension settings and allow in incognito mode because YOU NEVER KNOW what car you might need to fap over :D:D:D:D:D

if you are planning to do the timing belt, i will give you some proper pictures from the subaru manual which helps alot. Do tell me, then ill take a bunch of pics!

Oil Is the Millers Oil ok? Is Semi-Synthetic the right type? is 10W40 the correct Weight/Rating some use 5-30 some 10-40 and myself 15-40 or something like that. try to go for fully synthetic. I think the top level oils do a 10-40 fully synth, but like shell etc only do it in semi. so thats to watch out. see what other peoples opinions are. personally im sticking to any old semi synth till all my oil leaks are sorted then moving onto rockoil 10w-40 or shell 5w-40 fully synth. Timing Belt/Water Pump Anything I need to look out for or do? water pump, make sure its the genuine type with the impeller u cant really see. apparently i've read and heard they hardly ever go bad. ALWAYS use a genuine seal, and make sure to torque it down in a star pattern and the right torque spec. If you haven't replaced the whole kit before, you mayaswell do the whole thing now. if you plan to reuse; make sure you get the pin back in the tensioner, you can do this by using a c-clamp and slowly turning it over a 5minute period, keeping the tensioner vertical. if you see any oil on the tensioner its best to replace. also if the pulleys are making a bit of noise, and spinning even a bit losely, replace them. they should be nice a tight; like you know what ;) id say, also closely inspect all seals, front crank, rear crank, camshaft seals, rear oil separator seal for any leaks or weeping if there is may aswell change it now. Oil Service I prefill the oil filter with engine oil before attaching it, then you can disconnect the cam sensor (near oil filler cap) this will prevent the engine from starting and get some oil pressure built up. im sure @savage bulldogs can answer all the engine building stuff/priming the oil pump :D

ok MAHOSIVE update guys. pics will soon follow :D So, I got around to putting my ECU setup in, and the car would not turn on. There is an immobilizer or some sort of feature which was not allowing the fuel prime signal to be sent to the fuel pump relay. I solved this by jumping two wires (now soldered together), the downside to this method was the fuel pump is always running with the ignition on and i'm not sure if or how this would affect fuel cut feature of the ECU. I then proceeded to installing and mounting my AEM wideband sensor and hooking this up to the ESL ECU so I could log the AFR directly into the ESL logs. This was done by first disconnecting the stock narrowband O2 sensor at the downpipe, and then soldering the Signal Out wire onto the Signal in (For the stock narrowband) on the ECU. the conversion was then done with formula included with the AEM instructions. I then turned the boost down and ignition timing down and started adding everything on slowly, I was paying close attention to the Knock sensor activity/Knock correction table of the ECU, I had no corrections applied to my fueling and timing via the closed loop knock detection feature of the ECU. I was playing it very safe. Fast forward a bit, my clutch started slipping and I then replaced it on my driveway with an Exedy pink box clutch and an Exedy lightweight flywheel and a Whiteline front d upgrade. I also put on the vf23 turbo and I got my hands on a 6s map which is basically the map for the STI RA v3 :D holy mother, the high end was calling for 12.4s AFR and 30degrees of timing. HELL NO FORGET THAT. I sensibly applied my 7k rev limiter and richened out the top end, I didn't adjust the timing much, just pulled a degree here and there for peace of mind. Still no correction from the CLKD of the ECU. (Thank you V-Power :)) all is well. I then started to stall out on traffic lights. The IVAC was the culprit, hence this was cleaned out by the finest carb cleaner and replaced the gasket! at the same time I allowed the injector reinjection to come in slightly more early (1500rpmvs1300rpms) and like that traffic light stalling was a thing of the past. Fast forward a little and my car is currently taking like 6 cranks to start. I've been out with virus for a few weeks now :(, so the most I've been able to do is replace the alternator. get the starter recondition and lastly get my battery charged and tested. A bit of poking revealed that I was getting roughly 1v of dropage on my battery terminal vs my alternator. Attaching a Jump cable on my negative post and the other on the alternator body brought that disappeared voltage right back. TO DO LIST: Try to source the cause of the error code 12 (Starter switch or ignition fault code) Find the baby oil leak from the VF23 and see if it is fixable. Get the FMIC on. Make some DET cans. Get a fresh service in. Whilst turbo is off, get another wideband sensor (original busted :( ) and mount it further down the downpipe for more longevity. ADD MOAR BOOST AND MOAR TIMING ! Special thanks to @savage bulldogs for the Whatsapp Support on the side and supplying me with the ignition leads/coilpack and whiteline droplinks. and most importantly dropping some mad tips here and there! The VF23 is an absolute monster turbo. i may even consider getting it billeted so i can really run 1.45 bar boost in the midrange and really push the timing in the upper rpms and loads. Im getting full boost at pretty much the same time as a TD04 (3k-3.3k) ive not even tuned WG duty and i have the crappy wrx top mount and NO catch can. Which reminds me I also replaced my PCV breather hoses as it was cracked :D Thanks for reading!!!!

Do you hear a whirring sound from the fuel pump, if put my money on a dead fuel pump. Put the car to ignition on, and listen out for a buzzing and whirring sound.

Yeh mate، like savs said make sure to get them nudes in nice and early 😝 Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk

Rice rice baby rice rice Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk

Cold air = power. If you ask me, you ain't getting a drop of fresh air from that position, but what you are getting is warm air from one of the hottest parts of the engine bay. Warm air is just as bad as lobbing in 87 Ron fuel. Don't worry we sort it when im back 😂 Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk

banter cause ill be mafless anyway hahahaha

So my MAF scale is all set for the ORANGE MAF: New MAF Scale = Old MAF Scale x (74767/65535) 21100 = New MAF Scale (As shown in the ESL base map) Solving for Old MAF Scale: Rearranging to make Old MAF Scale the subject; New MAF Scale / (74767/65535) = Old MAF Scale 21100 / (74767/65535)= 18495 So 18495 x (74767/65535) = 21100 so assuming that the base map had the value for the Orange MAF correct, this should all be set up!

i may get me a run on a dyno with wideband logging. If the dyno costs me more than £100. I will save up a bit, while i read this book : engine management and advance tuning by Greg Banish. As i cover each section in the book ill link that section to ESL Manual and ill watch a video or two of someone live tuning their fuel map. as for creating a base map, ill get some logs from my evoscan as this will have my base ignition map and fuel map for my 8s ecu, i can then match that to my live figures and work out the ignition advance and paste it over :D (Clever i know ) OR ill reach fuckit levels, get a wideband logger, get some 440s and a td05 at like 1.0bar boost map that into my base map. Eitherway i dont think im planning to run it without wideband logging. (Ill also be doing the calculations for the MAF scaling etc) off the esl manual; New MAF Scale = Old MAF Scale x (74767/65535) is to work out MAF scaling; As i have a basemap which is persumeably for the ORANGE maf if i re-arrange the forumla to find old maf scale, i can then verify that this scale is right by punching it back into the forumula:D ill do this for every sensor just to ensure ive bridged the gap between the 8s and 75 ecu, even though ill be running mafless