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a few pics of my project so far


savage bulldogs
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Cheers chap 👍

Admittedly I'd be much happier if it just ran right atm tbh 🙄

 

Had a little bit of time to try n suss it but I've still got a high 1.3k hot idle atm 😏

Sure I'll find out why at some point but for the moment it's still just a pretty garden ornament 😂

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4 hours ago, mattiekane said:

Doesn't think it's running cold does it?

Loud pipes save lives
 

Almost seems to be reading the idle backwards 🤔

ticking over sweetly with normal vacuum readings at 700rpm  when cold .

Then after occasionally bringing the revs up  (using the throttle) while warming it up ,the hot idle gradually increases until it hits 1.3k at normal temperature (fans cut in) 

Afr is a bit Rich but that coupled with good steady vacuum, the fact it drives fine and idles smooth  , makes me think it's not a boost or air leak . 

I did think ECU temp readings but On the "apexi f.c sensor check function" the ECU temp sensor and icv are showing the correct figures . Plus the temp readings on the stock gauge,dash ,apexi and defis are all fairly similar.

gonna check o2 , throttle position , icv few other things with a multimeter next .

I'll suss it eventually, just hope the weather's still good next weekend. 

Just I'm Getting a bit used to driving the bug lately ,too and wannabe reminded why I love the v1sti  more 😊

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After cleaning maf ,icv and tps , then tracing and checking all voltages to sensors and harnesses..... I learnt a lot about how all these sensors work together but wasn't any closer to finding the high idle issue 🤔🙄

Vacuum or intake leaks normally cause a high idle but accompanied with lean afrs , hunting and rough running. I'd carefully sprayed brake n clutch cleaner around the inlet ports and most of the air intake/vacuum system,  so pretty much ruled out a leak .

But I found a small hole in the silicone elbow, I cut to make the turbo to maf pipework (from a jubilee clip nipping it )

I also cleaned some of the powder coat from where the engine loom earths on the inlet , so not 100% sure which one fixed it but ... I fixed it 😊

Also had the 3x 60mm custom preface center pod turn up and "south coast flocking " have made a lovely job of that.👍

So no more pics of the inlet , well until I've polished the alley  😋

So here's a few of the offending elbow and defi pod fitted 😊

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Taxed it , then took her for a birthday drink . On the way back I was tailgated by a mountune badged st focus all the way through town wtf . Once we hit the slip lane on the carriageway......

3rd gear pull put a good 4 or 5 car lengths between us and I dumped it in 6th at 60mph .Then watched the disbelief and disappointment on his face as he flew past at 80mph +shortly afterwards 😂

Old scoobies never die ..... they just get faster 😉

Managed to give the ally pipework a polish and give the defis a test run (well happy with them ) , so here's another pic of the finished bay, one of the scooby (to prove it does move lol) and one of the defis lit up .

 

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I have still got the anti lift kit , super pro wishbone bushes and cusco H brace to fit 😊 But I'll probably fit those towards the end of the year as I want to drive it during the summer 😉

The old fpr didn't have a gauge , so I've just set the pressure at standard pressure . It seems to be running a bit rich , so I'll definitely get it checked over on attowe dyno at some point .

But I will admit I'm starting to run out of things to do , might have to start working on the bug instead lol .

Do fancy a building a 2.35 at some point and I doubt the race spec Mahle pistons will do many more miles .As they're ment to be thrashed around on track, not poodling round town , so they don't get hot enough 🙄

So if all else fails , I'll turn the boost up to 2 bar and see how long it lasts 🤪😂

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still got a rich hot idle of 13.6 and I've been running it a lot at idle /cruise ,trying to locate the previous high idle issue . 

Although I had set the pressure at standard rate I had no idea what the original adjustable fpr was running at , as it doesn't have a gauge (had no idea what pressure its been mapped on) . So I decided to wind open the fuel lab regulator and fit the old one next to it . That way the gauge on the fuel lab regulator would read the pressure on the old regulator. Then I set the fuel lab regulator to match 😉

This has improved the afr a bit and the rest could just be due to a increased flow from the bigger rails, new parallel lines and cleaned injectors.

 

it's not excessively rich now and shes due a oil change in 1k , so I decided to change it earlier to lessen the chance of bore wash or the oil thinning. 

Still  not 100% happy its running right but for now ,a repeat order from Opie Oils it is 😉

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Well I'm not 100% happy but it's definitely running better , although it could well just be the extra fuel flow , it could also be there's something not quite right with the tps wiring. 

It's difficult to tell seeing as I'm running a 3 plug phase 1.5 tps and newage coilpacks on a phase 1 custom loom . So I can't always rely on phase 1 or phase 1.5 Subaru electrical diagrams , as it's a bit of a Frankenstein scooby 😊

Jt innovations that built the loom has been very helpful but unfortunately they're away for a fortnight atm . I don't want to waste attowes time by going up there , if there's a slight chance there's a mechanical or electrical fault instead of just a injector tweek .

Did you get a PM about the turbos ?

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I know the injector duty hasn't changed but Pressure and flow are different things....

ie a tdo4 at 1.2 bar would make , say 260 hp but a bigger td05 at 1.2 bar would make more like 320hp .

Basically The bigger insides of the tdo5 would mean there's more volume,  so more air is moved at the same pressure. The same principle could apply to the billet rails and parallel lines, I'm just not 100% convinced that's the only thing that's wrong . 

As a few of the voltage checks I've done to ECU pins for icv and tps are fractionally out (0.7v ish) .

Either way I seem to have a 14.2 afr hot idle and 14.7 hot idle under load (with fans,heater windscreen ,wipers on )  now 😊

Which is spot on for v power 99ron 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had adjusted tps and fuel pressure and it was running bang on yesterday 😎

Took it out today and the afr is all over the place again 😒

I've got quite a few ECU pin voltage differences between the car and oe v1 schematics but it's a phase 1 car running  a phase 1.5 tps . So it might have always had different voltages and was mapped that way in the first place .

So after numerous chats with Tim at jtinnovations and Clive attowe the only thing we all think it could be , is that the old loom was giving wrong voltages and was mapped with them .

Now the looms not faulty the ECU is receiving different voltages 🤔

It was running fine for 2yrs and Tbh I've only changed the rails and regulator. It's' starting to do my Swede in now ,as I've tried n tested everything I can think of and I'm almost ready to flick a match at it .

So I'm going to run it up to attowes Monday week ,so he can check sensors,  vac/intake leaks and see if a tweek can resolve it .

In the meantime I'll have to show the bug some love and ......

 

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So still got fingers crossed for Monday,  that attowe finds a simple air leak or it's a fuel adjustment issue and finally finds the fault 🤞

I the meantime I've polished the bug sti to within a inch of its life and started to get bored ....

Started tidying up the scooby scraps shed and found a hel red braided clutch line 🤔 been a while since I refreshed the 6 speed clutch slave fluid , so looks like I found something scooby to do 😎

The clutch slave reservoir is located above the turbo hotside and although it has a heat shield,  it does degrade with the heat rising from the turbo .

So I took a couple of pics I'll post at the end to show my method of changing the fluid , using a Turkey baster to remove the main of the old fluid then flushing and bleeding the system into a glass jar (sat on the chassis leg) with a vac line .

Rain stopped play so I've still got to fit the new line and bleed it but you should get the jist,  just don't get brake fluid on your paintwork as it will strip the paint down to bare metal 😉

Also While sitting in the garden looking at the v1sti and not being able to drive it , its been difficult .So I've been searching the net looking at scooby stuff to cheer me up 😥

 

and somehow ,just in case I do decide to do a rebuild soon.... I might have accidentally bought a set of v4sti heads at a reasonable price that need a bit of work 🙄😊

But I'll leave the 500hp capable heads explanation for another day 😉

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1 hour ago, savage bulldogs said:

So still got fingers crossed for Monday,  that attowe finds a simple air leak or it's a fuel adjustment issue and finally finds the fault 🤞

I the meantime I've polished the bug sti to within a inch of its life and started to get bored ....

Started tidying up the scooby scraps shed and found a hel red braided clutch line 🤔 been a while since I refreshed the 6 speed clutch slave fluid , so looks like I found something scooby to do 😎

The clutch slave reservoir is located above the turbo hotside and although it has a heat shield,  it does degrade with the heat rising from the turbo .

So I took a couple of pics I'll post at the end to show my method of changing the fluid , using a Turkey baster to remove the main of the old fluid then flushing and bleeding the system into a glass jar (sat on the chassis leg) with a vac line .

Rain stopped play so I've still got to fit the new line and bleed it but you should get the jist,  just don't get brake fluid on your paintwork as it will strip the paint down to bare metal 😉

Also While sitting in the garden looking at the v1sti and not being able to drive it , its been difficult .So I've been searching the net looking at scooby stuff to cheer me up 😥

 

and somehow ,just in case I do decide to do a rebuild soon.... I might have accidentally bought a set of v4sti heads at a reasonable price that need a bit of work 🙄😊

But I'll leave the 500hp capable heads explanation for another day 😉

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That is a seriously good looking car :drool:.

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Cheers , its my labour of love n blood sweat n tears . Doesn't look factory fresh in the flesh but hey she's been my daily up till when I got the bug on the road and cars are ment for driving (hopefully lol)

Meister r's and whiteline stuff keep it planted and although 360hp ain't high hp from my over engineered engine, at 1230kg it's plenty fast enough for me .

It still drives fine atm , no misfire or rough running and on boost the afr is fine but when idling at the lights the afr can drop to 12.6 . So I've been driving the bug and trying to suss it for over a month now .

Rich idle can strip the bore walls of oil, which can cause excessive wear to rings and thin the oil with fuel ( bore wash) .I changed the oil recently and don't want to risk driving it too much until its 100% sorted .

So hopefully I'll be able to drive it again soon , rather than just look at it lol .

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After the last few test drives I was getting a bit of white with a slight hint of blue smoke and feared the worst . That the Rings ,valves ,heads or head gasket were fubar 🥺

But compression was fine ,plugs were clean , no fluid loss or smell coming from the exhaust 🤔

I'd ruled out turbo seals , as there was no smoke on boost and in fact , the only time it did smoke was when pulling away from the lights . Didn't do it at cruise , idle or if the car hadn't been driven . So if it sat stationary I could rev ,idle for as long as i liked and it wouldn't smoke or have erratic afr 🤔🤔.

After resigning myself to letting Clive attowe look at it , cos hes not just a mapper , he does  diagnostic , maintenance, engine builds ect too .

I had some time to think and cast my searching further on the net .... never heard of it before but ..... apparently if the rear turbo seals go ,it can drip oil into the exhaust.  This means the oil is not burnt in the engine combustion, so you don't get blue oil smelling smoke .

You get white smoke with a tinge of blue  that doesn't smell oily ,as the oil evaporates from heat rather than burns 🤞

So .....

Out with the new'ish aps sr40 and in with the spare trusty 25 yr old tdo5.....

No smoke and a stable but slightly rich afr 😊😊😊

 fairly sure the oil "mist" was clouding the exhaust gasses in the down pipe and giving a erratic afr reading,  due to the wideband being positioned after the turbo . Confident that a map fuelling tweek is needed since fitting the better flowing rails and that will sort the afr now .

I'd already booked in a dyno at attowes Monday but wont get the v1sti tweeked yet , I'll wait until the bigger turbos fixed and refitted . So Monday  I'll take the bug sti to attowes for a health check and drop the aps sr40 off to Essex turbos for a rebuild instead .

Few pics of the weeping turbo , my box of bits needed to refit a standard turbo and the tdo5 , albeit a bit botched but back in the bay 😋

 

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Took the bug sti for a dyno at Attowes in Norwich and on the way back took a bit of a detour and Dropped the turbo off to Essex turbos for a rebuild . I used Essex turbos about 20yrs ago when my Brodie Britain tuned Renault 5 gt turbo popped its standard turbo seals 😏

Strangely enough the turbo came back with a few upgrades ceramic shaft ,bigger comp wheel ect . The chap that deals with the upgrades isn't in till next week and I need to discuss costing and availablity of upgrades first  .So we'll see if it comes back better or just fixed 😉

Since parking it up for the winter I seemed to have gained a alternator squeal on start up which lasts about a minute. I've tried , brake cleaner ,electrical contact cleaner and even wd40..... its still squealing 🤬

Trouble is ,that I had to hack my alternator about to get it to work with alternator relocation kit that come with my 2nd hand reversed inlet. Tbh  I don't fancy having to "convert " another alternator to fit again 🙄

 Don't get me wrong its working and has been for the past 4yrs or so but it's tweaking my ocd lol .

Alternator relocation kits used to be over £200 and the 2nd hand inlet kit ,throttle body and icv cost almost half that when I bought it 😋 . I have had my eye on a proppa relocation kit for a while and now they're more sensibly priced ,I decided to get one from Chris at cdf in anodized black to match the rails 😊

Got a few local meets next week and the week after , so doubt I'll find a alternator and clean it up or get the turbo back in time , so for now here's a pic of the kit.

 

 

 

 

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