Siluro

How badly was it overfilled and how long did you drive it like that? Overfilling is bad news as oil gets pushed through the seals? I overfilled my gearbox once ended up pushing oil past seal and contaminated the clutch, I learnt that lesson over 30 years ago. Took me ages to clear out the bellhousing. You live and learn, hopefully not the hard way. Youth knows best lol

@MR B you keep having to say the same thing again and again it is very sad. Does anyone do a proper job these days. Good luck James. MR B always talks sense. I would take his advise.

Take your time. You could probably do more damage changing the spark plugs TBH.

Can drain coolant by either removing bottom rad hose and thermostat or on Hawkeye there is a drain tap on bottom left of rad. Plastic tap. Careful as this tap can easily break its wings as plastic goes brittle.

Not sure from that link. http://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=184&products_id=2706 These are but bit more expensive.

Yep pilot 4s have a good rep. Not tried them myself but may do when I need. My mates 5 litre mustang has them on and he reckons there great.

Changing the coolant is simple but very easy to get an airlock. Fill from the back hose connected to the filler tank not the Radiator like my local Subaru dealership did. F**king fools, as a plumber you should know you bleed a system from the highest point (they paid for it as it was all caught on dashcam). Fill very slowly until filler tank is nearly full then bleed. Be careful cause it is very easy to get an airlock and then the engine may overheat. The temp gauge is very slow so if the fans do not turn off when expected during bleed process kill the motor and let it cool. Mine got up to 97 degree before the needle even moved. I use a OBD dongle to get real time temp readings. If you get an airlock sometimes the only way to remove it is to start all over again. Might be wise to park with the front higher than the back to help the air to rise. Take your time when filling and bleeding.

Does this link help. Not a guide but an exploded view http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g11/type_39/body_equipment_interior/instrument_panel/

Plenty of vids on YouTube to guide you. Not that bad a job really.

If it is a high mileage car and no history of water pump change I would do it with the cambelt. It just makes sense to me to do both. The impeller gets corroded by the water and can cause cavitation which can cause vapor to form. This will make the cooling system less efficient. My last cambelt change was <£400, i did not change the waterpump as the car only had 30K, I wish I had now though.

I used HEL and they are not an issue to fit.

Last time i tried Goodyear EAGLE F1 ASYMMETRIC 3. Good tyre better than the Bridgestone RE0?? whatever they were standard tyre. Cost about £100 a corner.

Seat will feel night and day quicker than NA Subaru. I had a fiat punto 1.9 Grande punto and that pulled like a train compared to my old classis 2.0 sport. If you after speed keep the seat all day long. The Subaru will also be far less economical. Traded Punto in for a 2007 WRX now I have the speed and now I have to pay for it at pumps, but it is worth it for me.

Jay did as for piccys. He may help if you do that.

Water in the boot can come from the boot seal, the rear lights or the petrol cap door (not sure on this one for a classic but can be on newage).

https://www.hardwarexpress.co.uk/ Yuasa battery from these guys. Good price too. Edit: Just noticed that they do not deliver these anymore shame.

You could always try a reset by disconnecting battery for a bit. Then the ecu will re learn and maybe the code will stop. It may run funny for a few miles while it learns. If 2005 get a cheap code reader and find the code.

I remember that episode. Cool. Fuzz does a proper job so she should be nice. I guess that adds some value to her?

Do you think we put OP off buying one? Lol. If we have, the smile per mile is well worth it. You don't by a scooby to save fuel, you buy it for the pleasure it gives you. It is also a car that is worth investing time and money in to keep in good condition. If your worried about fuel then there is also the maintenance costs of the regular oil changes etc. Always OEM parts if not a good aftermarket. If you cannot afford it you will not enjoy it. They are easy to work on I find which is a bonus. As Jesse says 10K @ £60 a week sounds about right. I do around half that and I estimate about £30 a week. I gave up caring about MPG and just drive it now and enjoy. How much is your road tax on the JDM?

Wow 48mpg. Must of had just socks on to feather the throttle for that result. I cannot see my Hawkeye ever going above 30.

That's why the 1st map is pricey cause you buying a licence as well I believe.

Just to add the car has covered 15k since being mapped and is fine no issues what so ever except the speeding ticket I got. I had to do a speed aware course so dodged the points.

Your biggest issue is finding the right mapper. I asked after being mapped (did research) and I got answers I did not want to hear about this person. One thing I would recommend is that the mapper does both rolling road and normal public road mapping. This is good advice from Tidgy which I did not know till too late.

Standard airbox is more than enough for 350 bhp unless you plan on going higher. Panel filter unless your after the noise of the induction kit. You be better spending money on new set of tyres to gain some speed.

Not sure about 09 but 07s do suffer seized calipers especially on the back. For this year rebuild kits are available. Godspeed as an example.