savage bulldogs

Today I be mostly ripping it to bits (again) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome . Budget and what you want to do with it are probably the first things you need to decide . If you just want to buy a standard car and remap it too just under 300hp on a tighter budget wrx is probably the way to go . You can always add the extra bits to increase it's performance afterwards . If you've got a bit more cash to buy the base car and want to chase ponies straight away ,newage sti is probably a better choice . Due to bigger standard turbos and stronger 6 speed box . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Does it go away if you brake gently? Or set the diff to full front or full back and see if it still does it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had a hard day at work ,as I'm still recovering from a easter/birthday weekend hangover. Decided to try and locate my v1sti speed sensor wiring on a pdf diagram. Fell asleep on the laptop ..... Woke up 5 mins later with qwerty backwards embossed on my face and a ebay wish list tab open for about £1,700 worth of scooby bits [emoji33] . On the plus side i Narrowly avoided a divorce (only cos qwerty backwards isn't my pay pal password ) and think I've now found the plug that leads to the ecu from the speed sensor [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome to s.o.c. Some hell'va sticky tyres you've got on that wagon [emoji39] Phase 1 yellow 440 cc injectors will be a straight swap but they're getting rare now . Phase 2 yellow 440's will fit with "phase adapters " which cost about £ 40 including new O rings. Either set of yellows will max @ about 350hp but you can't just fit the injectors or fuel pressure reg . As the ecu won't be able to adjust the fuelling enough itself and will have to be remapped. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The "laser" brand clutch alignment tool available from halfrauds works with the 5 & 6 speed pull type clutch [emoji6] If you're in Suffolk your welcome to borrow mine If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Are you comparing oil temps to before and after Duncan mapped it ? As the jdm ecu had probably tweeked the fuelling and pulled timing out. Creating a safer colder map for our uk fuel to stop it leaning off . Since mapping your probably running more boost and a tighter afr . If you've been using the same grade oil for a while and it's only done it recently, I'd look at what else might have changed . Have you taken off any heat shields ,doing longer journeys since you moved or Changed a air filter maybe ? I don't know for sure cos I'm no oil expert like tim . I think a 5 w will be thinner when cold than the 10w ,so 5w will flow better when cold but it will be thinner creating more piston slap until up to temp . The 50w will be thicker at 100% (once up to temp) and might cause more wear if the engine is quiet when up to temp with the 10w 40 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Main thing is to decide what you want from the car once it's done (daily driver ,track toy or oe spec) As @ 330hp + it gets expensive, forged build, bigger turbo and drive train upgrades won't leave you much change from £4k ,even if you do all the work yourself . Do you know what version impreza you have ? As this will help us know what version engine will be a straight swap. If the coil pack is in the centre of the inlet it's a v4. if the coil pack is to one side it's a v5 . The main reason I reshelled mine was because of the rear arch and suspension turrets had rotten away . Is it a clean shell ? As the last thing you want is to spend time n money on a cars mechanicals to only find out it will fail a mot due to rot .then end up spending another £1k getting it back roadworthy and looking good . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I can understand where the mot tester is coming from, as if it's badly corroded in one place it's probably not as strong as needed elsewhere. A clean second hand subframe off a jdm of the same year would probably cost under £100 but I'm not sure how much it would cost to fit . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Most of us run ngk 7's with a slightly smaller 0.65 mm gap in higher boost aplications (remapped ) As Jay said the air and fuelling could also cause flat spots . When was the last time the air filter was changed and do you use the same octane fuel everytime ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Does sound like you've replaced most of what I would have suggested tbh . I personally have never taken apart or bled a power steering system on a scoob . Seeing as it's affected by temperature was the new fluid the right grade ? Maybe bleed the system again ? Were all the above parts new genuine subaru bits ? Hope you get it sorted soon If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've had 2 classic flywheels skimmed and both exedy pink box clutches handled 350hp fine with no problems or judder .spigot bearings are well worth doing imo .As they only cost £12 and they just "tap" into the centre of the fly to steady the idle shaft . the 3rd scoob I fitted a new clutch too had a paddle clutch originally . It had eaten into the flywheel and left deep ridges and visual cracks . So that was swapped for a lightweight flywheel as it looked well beyond a "skim" . Where's the leak coming from and have you got any other issues with the box ? As there's 3 main oil seals on the gearbox (prop and drive shafts x2) which normally leak gearbox oil . If its leaking engine oil the crank seal directly behind the flywheel or the back of the sump are the usual culprits. These are easy to change when the box is out and only cost about £15 each from icp If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome. Nice selection of scoobs [emoji106] I do like em in white ,nice choice [emoji41] Rather fond of upsetting audi's n beemers too [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

What year / model is it ?, as only certain heads will fit the pre v4 scoobs (without loom mods and adapters) Oe gaskets , acl shells ,timing belt kit and machining costs will cost the best part of £1k . find a good local engineer to check the block and head faces for trueness .also get him to check the crank over and I'd advise not to get it reground if it's over oe tolerances. Best of luck and don't forget those pics n updates [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Ghost have you tried stiffening them up with the damper setting? Nick , nice choice bud [emoji41]. unfortunately the ally and silicone pipework I needed didn't turn up so I couldn't fit the turbo and parallel rails [emoji53]. So I changed the oil and filter , fitted the new brembo bleed nipples and re bled the brakes . The Elizabeth wasn't much help ,as per normal she just kicks my spanners n sockets everywhere and sleeps in my way [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Check out my shiney nipples [emoji15] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

alyn @ Asperformance might be worth a call for baffle plates . Cosworth also do them but I'd imagine that they would be a similar price to rcm If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

hi n welcome ,nice clean looking classic [emoji41] I was into my Gm stuff before I saw the light [emoji4] Do you have any plans for it or just maintain and enjoy ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

V1 and v2 (up to early 96) are preface V3 (late 96 to 97) has facelift grill ,lights bonnet but preface interior, dash and bumper . V4 (late 97 to 98) have facelift grill ,lights,bonnet ,interior, dash but preface front bumper . V5 / v6 are a full facelift ,bonnet, lights,interior, dash .plus a different (3d) grill and facelift front bumper (with smaller indicators in it )[emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bought a few bits of ally and silicone pipework so I can hopefully fit the bigger turbo (with the clocked coldside mod ) ,parallel fuel rails and inlet manifold thermal spacers next weekend [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome to s.o.c . Much planned for the scoob or are you happy with it as is ? Im just across the border in Suffolk Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I've never tried myself ,so not a definite answer but I've heard that it will fit if it's a complete turbo back . As classic downpipes are a different length and use a different length cat back . They also use a extra rear hanger on the back box compared to newage but I've read somewhere that the turbo back exhausts are the same length overall . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Could be a blockage or faulty thermostat but seeing as it only does it on boost you could well be right. Sniffer test would give you a definite answer but unfortunately it does sound like typical early headgasket symptoms to me [emoji53] . under boost the failing headgaskets allow the heads to lift which in turn pushes combustion gasses into the coolant , creating excess pressure in the cooling system. Has it been mapped for the lower octane uk fuel ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Could it be a exhaust blow from the manifold ,upipe or turbo flange ? Have you checked the gearbox oil levels ? Could try changing the tyres from front to rule out wheel noise and while the front wheels are off check cv's for wear If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As above would be my first port of call. It does say "jap stage 2 chip" which makes me think it's more likely to be a generic "chip" (like a mines ecu) which just raises the boost and has more advanced timing ,Rather than being re mappable which lets a mapper adjust the map live . If the car seems to be running ok get it on a dyno to make sure it's fuelling is correct ,as it's only about £50 for a power run and could save you a lot money in the long run . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊