savage bulldogs

Could always wait until we've got a better trade deal with America and buy a blouch (re branded sc ) or fp turbo from the states [emoji6] . Second hand md based or genuine tdo5 18g would hit the target power for about half the price of a new sc36 . Or get someone like Owen developments or turbo dynamics to refurb a fubar'd turbo to your needs . Which is the route I thought I'd take with my £200 aps sr40 (gt28 based stock location turbo ) well when I eventually blow it up [emoji23]

Drivers side front door decided it didn't want to lock with the key or fob , so fearing something "sparky" to be at fault I pulled the door card off to investigate. This little clamp had a crack in it allowing the door mechanism rods to slip so the lock couldn't be operated. Bit of redneck engineering and a Few cable ties later ... it's working fine and does the job untill I can find a replacement "rod clamp" [emoji6] Also noticed that the instructions for the actuator (that I hadn't read b4 ) said to add a certain amount of "preload" on the actuator spring [emoji55] . Wound the rod in a bit and it's boosting better now [emoji12]

440's will run 340hp on a classic so 555cc sti injectors will reach the 350hp target easily but you get bigger injectors you'd always have headroom for a power increase when "project creep" sneaks up on you [emoji23] I'm not sure what the limit is for a standard 2.5 ltr block tbh . Afaik you'd be fine @ 350hp with standard rods with just uprated pistons to rid the Ringland curse . But yet again if your gonna spend the time building it and the money on gaskets for the rebuild you might as well go for a bit more headroom .... Cossie/rcm headgaskets. Uprated headstuds and pistons. H or I beam rods . Most use rcm or g goode oil pumps and acl race shells. I think "pinning " might be a bit cheaper than cdb inserts but I'd go the whole hog and get it cdb converted if I was gonna build a 2.5 .

Subaru did a "sort of" recall on the front wishbones for some newage models. Think it just consisted of someone hitting a dot punch against the rusty wishbones . If it made a hole you got shiny new ones if it didn't punch a hole in them you were stuck with the standard twiglets on the front

Wish I was away in the sun instead of plastering in the cold . [emoji19] Definitely missing the view from the balcony Morning view . 11am view

Cheers Richie, it's been a slippery slope but I've enjoyed building it and it makes me smile driving it. Only real downside to doing most of the work yourself is having no one else to blame when things don't go as planned. Just a bit gutted I don't have the space and equipment to spray it myself to get rid of the paint fade .

Yeah I get scooby withdrawal after 2 days away , so end up hanging around on forum's to get my kicks when abroad lol . This was earlier in the summer when we had wifi by the pool in majorca [emoji41] I can remember posting a few pics of some rather random seeds on my build thread at the time too [emoji23]

It's probably not doing the duel ball bearing turbo core much good ...... but I like it so the flutter is staying [emoji4]

I took a sound recording of it on the road, it's poor quality and mainly me showing my brv how the turbo flutters but at least it's not got attowes fans drowning it out . https://vimeo.com/192937312

My kids still don't like it as I have to text em when I'm outside to pick them up from their friends houses ..... Rather than them getting their coats on when they used to hear me coming from half a mile away [emoji23] I'm chuffed with it as it gives a nice deep thud on tick over that just gets quicker with the Rev increase , instead of louder and raspy'ier [emoji6]

Now the pfc pads have bedded in they're much better than the previous red stuff [emoji41] I decided to buy a "kinugawa " forged actuator, yeah I know most people will probably think I'm mad buying stuff made in taiwan [emoji55] But I wasn't willing to pay over £200 for a better branded actuator, only to hack it to bits to try and make it fit my clocked coldside and custom reversed inlet manifold [emoji6] The actuator seems well made and only took 5 days to arrive. It came with a few different length/shape rods and a couple of different "ends" I stripped of the old actuator and offered up the new one I had to cut down one of the ends / fit the bent rod and straighten the original actuator bracket in my vice to make it fit . Once fitted it now pulls 1 bar of boost about 500 rpm sooner but it's not all smiles. ..... as it doesn't want to make the full 1.5 bar of boost anymore [emoji15] . So I stripped the new actuator down to find out why although everything seems well made unfortunately my Taiwanese ain't too sharp and we seem to have got something lost in translation lol . As I asked for a spring the opened at 0.8 bar but they've fitted it with a actuator spring that's set to open at 0.3 and reaches fully open at 0.8 bar [emoji57] Quick email to kinugawa and within a hr I had a tracking number for 3 new springs at varied strengths winging their way to me . So their customer service definitely gets the thumbs up and I'll update with how the product is once I've fitted the correct rate spring [emoji5]

A friend of mine had a 3" unbranded exhaust on his 98 wrx and kept getting low 200flb torque figures once mapped . Went back to 2.5 h&s cat back.... 240 flbs but did drop 7 hp to end up with 265hp instead of 272 hp with the 3" . From what I've researched a good branded 2.5" exhaust isn't restrictive on spool untill 350hp ish and some . I think it was "engine tuner" or "Harvey (rip) did a dyno test and found that 2.5" didn't restrict hp @ just over the 400 mark .

I used to have a set of stainless steel and pink newage sti ones which were easy to fit . (I gave them to stants). The silver and black ones in that pic were off a spec c but I think newage wrx's use the same , i bought them cos they match my scoobs colour better . But in that pic I still had the sti newage ss and pink throttle peddle [emoji55] Currently it has the silver and black spec c foot rest ,clutch and brake peddle with the original throttle peddle As although its tweeking my ocd [emoji33] ,you have to remove the complete throttle peddle assembly to fit the matching throttle peddle. ..... so I keep putting it off [emoji23]

I started with a cheap depo 4 in 1 gauge. Boost /oil pressure /oil temp /volts as it was only £100 and I thought I'd upgrade it at a later date. 2 scoobs , 2 engines ,2 gearboxes and 5 yrs later the depo is still working fine lol . But I do now run a apexi fc ecu which monitors everything except afr on the hand controller . A apexi avcr which monitors throttle position, revs ,boost and injector induity. 3 lamco v1 sti gauges Depo 4 in 1 And a road angel . So I've gone from 1 discreet compact gauge to looking like a airplane cockpit [emoji23]

Had a few goes at hardcore but tbh I stilll prefer "normal " conquest

Oil pressure (so if you get a leak you know early enough) Oil temp (so you know it's warm enough to use boost ) Egt or afr (so you know it's not leaning off due to a intake leak) Boost can help diagnose leaks and overboost but otherwise it just looks pretty And I prefer bar but that's only a personal preference

I saw a 94 sti up for £8.5k but it was a fresh import and did look completely standard with 60km [emoji7] It will probably have a cdb block and a tdo5 16g so good for 330hp with intercooler and a set of yellows with that ecu . If it's got clean rear arches I wouldn't let it go for under £2.5 k ,especially being nearly 23yrs old [emoji6]

If it's misfiring, it could cause that code , the 02 sensor reading would be rich due to the unburnt fuel . When was the last time the spark plugs were changed ? As it could be a weak spark on 1 of the cylinders.

Tdo5 front entry Vf35 Vf34 Vf22 Vf23 Basically any single scroll turbo will fit but the ones above ,should be sub £400 and hit your hp goal with supporting mods + remap. If you chose a later turbo off a 2.5 ltr engine just bear in mind it might have a bigger hotside that might make it a bit laggier on a 2ltr .

I've downloaded and uninstalled 4 apps and most are saying it's not a valid reg but it's been sitting at least 5 yrs so might not be on a recent database. I have had 1 site say it is a green mini but I want a bit more info , due to him saying he's lost the keys and logbook [emoji15] I'll pm you the reg just in case your app works [emoji6]

Cheers chap appreciate that, I'll have a squint on Google play for it

My father in law is looking at buying a old school mini , we've found 1 but would like to check a few things b4 handing over any hard earnt. Can anyone recommend a free or cheap car checker site ?

Now gonna brave the cold too see if I can make this universal actuator fit my custom inlet / turbo . Never had a actuator apart until this morning, so I've learned something already today [emoji41]

Vac leaks can normally be spotted visually by looking for cracks or loose fitting ends . You could just buy some new vac line (about £10) and replace each bit in turn to try to find the faulty bit . Just make sure you fit it in the right route and take note of t pieces and the direction of 1 way valves in the purge system . Unfortunately the only way I know you can check the injector spray pattern is correct . Is to remove them and get them flow matched and ultrasonically cleaned.

I personally went with the rcm pump but any standard or aftermarket factory fit ones will be fine fella. (Even if they're uprated ). As the fuelling will be the same as when running your existing pump . Cos the fuel pressure regulator will keep the fuel pressure same as before.