savage bulldogs

You'd have to check but I don't think the jdms have a imoblizer? , if so you could try swapping the uk ecu for a jdm one of the same year that runs the same turbo and injectors. Is there any spark plugs that seem "wetter" ie could a injector be dirty and " blobbing" fuel in rather than spraying fuel ,causing a misfire and popping? I still think it's probably a wiring fault rather than mechanical but you could try removing 1 spark plug lead at a time and starting it up . If it doesn't run worse when removing a particular plug it could help diagnose which cylinder is not firing

@david1972 got home early enough for it to be light so took a couple of pics. I used the wax last Saturday and it seems to be holding up well ,seeing as it's been raining every day since [emoji53]

Only just seen this , I'll have to take 1 next time I use it . As it's dark by the time I get home from work and the Mrs has been driving it in the rain this week ,so it's filthy already [emoji57]

Wouldn't surprise me if it was the poor woman who went all the way through my mod list last night ..... Only to have me say I'd ring em back before renewing my insurance with them . She was really nice but must have been miffed with me and my list of mods, which might have made her grumpy today lol .

Hi n welcome , quite like the early leggy but unfortunately I don't know much about em though . Keep us updated with any changes [emoji6]

Did you mention that your a club member , as you get a club discount (think it's about 10%)

Glad to hear it's running again . What's the morning error code for ? It could still be a pump wiring issue if you have to prime it twice to get it started . If you run it low on fuel it could be a part blocked fuel filter or injector (although the filter should stop dirt getting to the injectors ) Check the fpr vac line /purge system too .

Bought some different wax as the colinite 845 I've been using for years is almost gone . The "Harley wax " was probably the easiest stuff to buff off that I've ever used [emoji41] I coated the whole scoob before starting to buff it off too , mind you it is made in california so was probably designed to be used in hotter conditions than a English winter lol . Also had the adjustable billet actuator turn up too [emoji39] Hopefully it will fit without hacking it to bits [emoji4]

Yeah, it's only the v1 /v2 phase 1 that has a different air intake route due to the top entry turbo set up . V3 onwards classics run a similar under wing resonator box to the newage [emoji6]

Apexi do a phase 1 v1/v2 resonator delete [emoji6] I've got a unbranded one but I might need it if I switch turbo's again , so unfortunately it's not for sale atm

No problem fella [emoji106] link I followed is on this page of my build thread with a few pics . The only thing I did different was use 1 earth for each side rather than 1 earth per coilpack , so I could move the earth's so they attached to the inlet higher up away from road grime/moisture. http:// uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/3094-a-few-pics-of-my-project-so-far/?page=8

I paid £80 for the pigtails and newage coilpacks, then had to cut my classic pigtail plugs off and solder them onto the newage pigtail wires myself . You do need by pass the classic igniter by soldering some wires together , so bear that in mind if you're not too handy with a soldering iron or expect them to be just "plug n play" I didn't have a issue with either of my tank gaskets but you'd probably have to not drive it untill you got a replacement (if your's was fubar) . If you give it a google it would probably come up with a how 2 for removing the fuel pump . But as long as you disconnect the battery earth and release the fuel pressure carefully you'll be fine. Couple of pics n pointers . Start with a cold engine and a disconnected batery earth , then from under the bonnet release the fuel pressure at the fuel filter. Pic of the bodywork hatch removed taken from the boot The sun glasses were to stop fuel squirting in my eyes and the rags to clean around the tank hatch before opening the hatch to stop any debris dropping in the tank . Here's a pic of the fuel pump and gauge sender assembly removed .

Yeah I normally stock pile a few scooby scraps over winter to kick start the spring modding season too [emoji5] You get into the fuel pump assembly via a oval hatch in the boot . Once the boot hatch is off, you can get to the top of the tank . Then Remove the fuel gauge sender and pump cradle to withdraw the pump from the tank [emoji6] . If your's is a v1 or v2 (4 coil packs on top of the spark plugs ) I'd recommend looking at a newage coil pack conversion to help with higher boost ignition strength.

Nice choice [emoji41] Side feed Phase 2 440's , I got 347hp outta my old ones at standard pressure, admittedly they were at 92% induity though [emoji51]

There's gonna be hell tupp'e but at least it will take the limelight off us and overshadow the Brexit malarkey. Hopefully scooby bits from across the pond will be cheaper and oil prices will continue to fall

I bought 0.5 mm over sized Mahle pistons which came with rings ,so unfortunately can't help . If you give luke @import car parts, mark @lateralperformance or advanced automotive a call they might be able to help [emoji6]

Better get yourself on the rum and ebay again at the weekend . Cos you're a couple of pieces of the chav puzzle missing .... You need to order a "argos" £30 sovereign and a burbery 'at innit bruv [emoji23]

Today I be mostly.... buying a billet adjustable actuator [emoji39] Just hope I don't have to "savage" it too much to make it fit [emoji16]

Yeah easy to install ,if you get a classic oe subaru one they just plug in ,run new vac lines and map . Took attowe 5 mins tops and 2.5 mtr of new vac line

I've definitely got 1 of those in my boxes of scooby scraps £30 delivered [emoji6] Was it you I was supposed to be looking for a maf for ? If so what colour label was it ?

3 port gives the mapper better control over the boost targets, so yes it's a upgrade. But it has to be mapped in /calibrated straight away for it to work ,so is best fitted just before mapping or by the mapper

I don't know much about the na versions but the throttle body looks like it's cable operated in the pics ? If thats the case ,there's not much to go wrong with that type of throttle body .double check what the codes were, as It might be the t.p.s that's faulty. (Throttle position sensor ) instead . Have you changed the air filter recently or could it be something restricting/changing air flow into the engine? If he's sure it's the throttle body, best bet would be to find a second hand one of the same year and model .

Yeah the 04 is the smallest turbo fitted to imprezas, so it spools quick and hits max boost earlier. Down side of that is it does run outta puff though . You can get aftermarket tdo4 hybrids which will break the 300 hp barrier retaining faster spool . Most just use a second hand vf34 , vf35 or older tdo5 16g For sub 350hp targets with sub £400 budgets. It's difficult to say when you'll hit 1 bar of boost as set ups vary but I'd imagine it would be 750 rpm ish later than the tdo4 and pull till 6k ish . If your fitting the turbo /up pipe yourself make sure you use new subaru oe gaskets , as the cheaper ones don't last [emoji6]

I've had some pfc carbon metallic pads in my brembos for about 1k mls now . They well out perform the previous red stuff pads for cold bite and fast road use . I got the front pads and a full set of Goodrich phantom braided lines for about £175 delivered from Alyn @Asperformance [emoji6]

I'd imagine that you'd see 320 to 340hp with your current mods ,mods you've listed and a remap . Vf35 is the newer equivalent of a tdo5 16g, so you'd probably hit full boost a bit later than a vf34 (3.5k ish ) but it would pull harder and hold boost higher in the Rev range.