Gambit

They do make me laugh these guys :) Did your Mx5 come with a hair dryer ? ;) Now wheres my black paint :)

Just slammed this up mate http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7546-ecu-light-fix-decat/

ECU light fixes are described below to address the P0546 ECU codes. 2.2K ohm from Maplins best place less than a £1 Or you could get one of these http://www.haywardandscott.com/cell-fix.html This is a great way as a temporary fix. But to get the full benefits for it a Remap is the only true way. Some modern newages also seem to know when it's trying to be tricked and will still sling the ECU light on. There shouldn't be a need to reset the ECU it might take upto 8 starts to go out when the ECU has learned. If you're more technical minded read on. The Newage Subaru Impreza WRX ECU has a table of all DTCs (fault codes) by their numeric value. If you replace one of these with a different numeric value, the code is effectively turned off. This article assumes you are familiar with reading and reflashing ECUs and have already downloaded your ECU image. Perhaps you are looking to defeat the annoying CEL codes after installing an Up-Pipe or Downpipe. If so these are the typical CEL codes you’ll be interested in disabling: P0037 - Rear O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low P0038 - Rear O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit High P0137 - Rear O2 Sensor Low Voltage P0138 - Rear O2 Sensor High Voltage P0139 - Rear O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold P0545 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low P0546 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High P1301 - Misfire Detected (High Temperature Exhaust Gas) P1312 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Malfunction P1544 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Too High The recommended way to disable your CEL codes is to use the OpenSource tool called RomRaider. This is described below. Additionally, if your ECU is not yet supported by RomRaider (if not please let them know!) there are also notes on how to do this manually using the HEX Editor function within the Shareware program called EcuEdit ROMRaider ECUEdit ECUEdit is a tool which can take a ECU image and visualise the maps graphically and allow user edits (remaps). Maps are described via one or more configuration files. ROMRAIDER Disabling CEL codes in RomRaider is easy. Open your ROM in RomRaider. With reference to the illustration below, select Diagnostic Trouble Codes from the tree view on left. Within that you’ll find a (large) list of CEL codes. To disable a CEL code, simply click on a CEL code from the tree e.g. P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold and you’ll be presented with an editor. The guys at RomRaider have made this real easy, so all you need to do is uncheck the box to disable it. CEL fix made easy using RomRaider Save your ROM from within RomRaider and now you’re ready to upload your ROM back to your ECU. CEL fix using EcuEdit If your ECU ROM is not supported by RomRaider (described above) then the following, more advanced, procedure may be used to disable CEL codes. Identifying CEL codes within ROM Figure 1 below, illustrates a section of the fault code table from an ECU image dump of a MY03 Impreza 2.0 WRX In the above figure we are only interested in rows with either 03, 04 or 05 in column zero. Starting from the highlighted row 24D0D, column zero indicates if this is a generic OBDII or a Subaru specific fault code (03 or 04 respectively). Column 1 and 2 is the fault code in Binary Coded Decimal (BCD) format. In this example we are looking at fault code P0420 – Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. The next row 24D11 is fault code P0442 – EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak). Disable a fault code In the above figure you will see a number of rows with the values ’05 00 00’. This appears to be Subaru’s way of allowing fault codes to be ignored. To disable a fault code simply replace it with ’05 00 00’ e.g. for P0420 replace ’03 04 20’ with ’05 00 00’. This change has been applied in Figure 2 below. Now the ECU won’t raise a CEL for that. Information Source: OpenECU.org, thanks to Colby and the OpenECU community for making this possible. Disabling other fault codes If you want to disable other DTCs follow Steps 1–2 with one minor change. When you search in Hex Viewer, leave the max count at ‘4′. Put the DTC value you want to disable in the 01 and 02 spot but try two searches. One which has ‘03′ as the value for 00, and one which has ‘04′. If you try this it's at your own risk, if you don't know how to use it you will need to research more on Google. You must remember you are playing around with the ECU. Myself I would use a qualified mapper.

Still time but sooner the better :D

Id have a guess at an 02 sensor code the resistor maybe came out. But is a pure guess I'd take Stanton up on the offer myself. Just because he has sexy legs :D

The TMIC WRX should be good for 340BHP STI for near 400BHP Both could maybe go more BHP in the TMIC but will affect the type of map you have on it.

Not really mate only thing you can do is keep driving it see how she goes if it's on it's way it will get noticeably worse :( Did it sound like a belt slipping sort of noise ?

It's basically a new clutch as well, as they have to pull it all out :(

Throw out bearing I think they call it by the sounds of it. If it is it will get worse :( have you tried to pull off with the hand brake o slowly until it grabs see if it squeals again ?

Yep they look like the ones mate :) Person who sold it might have removed it which is a bit naughty. Might be worth having a look :(

Sorry mate should have just said you get used to just using abbreviations of the names just automaticly think people know what you mean :) I'm not too sure on the size sorry and cleaning doesn't always help. Well I've had it before the MAF ( <I will use it now :) ) problem tried to clean the 1st one didn't help at all their very sensitive. If someone has used a filter like a K&N oiled reusable filter thats enough to kill one so if it is that check the air filter too. Anyway so I got a 2nd hand one of ebay same problem bought another dead MAF :( This was all without any ECU light on so was guessed. Bought another one not cheap :( and like magic it worked :) Other things that can course it though is any split or broken lose pipes would need a water spray and carefully go around the rubber hoses. Spark Plugs and coil packs or the leads if they have gone will be rough idle too.

I'm not sure what that wire is for but hope it solves the problem :D

Oh right didn't know that thanks for the heads up mate. I thought they all came from the same one, so the chances are low of both going at the same time then you think :) . I changed the fluid yesterday hoping it would sort the rough gear change out but since doing it the clutch is really low changes gear better than it did but clutch is only about an inch from the floor before it disengages again then sticks then flicks up. I've bled the crap out of it nearly half a tub of fluid I've pushed through yesterday trying to sort it thinking it was air locked. I've even bought a proper brake and clutch bleeding kit today. But I'm sure it's the slave cylinder only explanation I have :(

I would still read them just incase the bulbs had it. But I would pull the plug off the MAF see if it stalls. I'd say most of the bad idle problems will be MAF related :(

It's very possible with the car running pull the plug off the MAF to see if it stalls out There is a few things that can be linked to poor idling but if it's had an oiled filter in I would put money that is where the problem is :(

Hi mate welcome to S.O.C Sites I would use are Opie Oils and Import Parts Should be able to get everything from there. both very helpful with Questions Opie Oils give us Discount too on oils so thats a bonus. Tim who works for them on here and has a thread if you need to find what's the best oils to use. Unfortunately I have spoke to Import Parts but turned down the offer of them being on here to advertise, which was a shame as we have about 8 sister club forums so could have covered across a massive board of car makes :( But for a service be looking at - 1 X 5 Litres Oil - 1 X Brake Fluid - 1 X Oil Filter - 1 X Fuel Filter - 4 X Spark Plugs - 1 X Panel Air Filter If cambelts due I would recommend doing it all get a full kit with water pump costs more but in the long run could and more likely save you money and give you peace of mind :D Cambelt / timing belt Cambelt Tensioner Idlers Water Pump

How much do you want for it ? And is it better you think to change the slave and the master cylinders at the same time ? I'm feeling it might be wise move as it's all done then. Still not sure if to get new or 2nd hand though.

Nice I will get one looks like a clutch slave cylinder has now beat the turbo blanket to being bought 1st :( And I can see what you had a hard time getting it on that plumbing couldn't have sat more in the way if you wanted it too :)

Was it cold like starting it in the morning it's normal for it to be a bit higher But gives the ECU a read see if it has any codes best bet to start with :) http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/

Yep I'm feeling this pain at the minute too every and anything seems to be going wrong with the Bugeye :(

Cool will be a midweek evening think looking maybe a 1800 till 2100 but its a great pub and the food looks amazing so I'm hoping we can make it a monthly thing get to know the owners better and I will try have my dinner there too :D take the missus to the 1st one take her for dinner I think I best let her out the cage from time to time :D

Good excuse ;) And well today was a bit uneventful after yesterday with the blobeye went so well. I think either the clutch master or slave cylinder has gone on my bugeye :( drained down and refilled the clutch fluid and now the pressure only seem halfway down I've not even started work on the other repairs the old girls starting to go down quicker than Rolf Harris on a minor :(

No worries mate. And if you're interested I'm looking at getting a local meet sorted but holding it near Market Rasen if I can get the nod would you be interested ? Won't be till next month now but would love to get as many people north Lincolnshire going as possible in every type :D And I was told that place in louth was cheap. But they will match or beat any like for like quote

In no particular order ;)

Yep much better now with the clearance does look more off road ready now :)