Mr B

Hard be accurate on basic symptoms given but a good hunch would be sigma alarm module immobiliser relays, relays are soldered in but can be swapped out, If is this the alarm module can also be easily swapped out for a good used one (supplied with a working fob or code so can be programmed)

yes looks to be, could wire light on dash same as oem subaru tow pack but buzzer is less work .

follow loom into boot side trim low level drivers side .

That a shame, generally drivers side easier find as passenger side one that generally gets damaged more often. Is a case of keep looking, also look for listings of whole car as a salvage listing and message the seller . Is a few specialist subaru breakers so could contact them as well . Just be pleased it a easy bolt on panel thus cost can be fairly low and once replaced it can be perfect fix .

eBay is a good option, Search wing and search Forester SG breaking, should be able get a used one already silver factory paint and it fairly easy bolt on job . Garage charge be about 1hr for that . New wing and painting work out expensive .

What I think is it a 1hr garage charge ... Do realise you likely have no usable warranty as expect the warranty terms will require fitting by qualified mechanic . Look at MOOG, should find it around £80 mark You can get genuine for around £150 We have enough issues with warranty at times so don't rely on any warranty too much . Being not too old good chance you find it easy remove, chisels be useful as will so good punches . Plenty penetrating oil applied daily over few days in advance may help . We use an air hammer/riveter which makes quick work of them, one user on here replicated that to some extent with a SDS hammer drill .

I would suggest looking at youtube for xv rear wheel bearing change covering you year model . Video give you far better basic guide . Technically it simple nut and bolt job swap out a complete hub bearing assembly but corrosion can make them difficult slow process without good air tools . Buy a quality bearing assembly preferably japanese, not the lower priced stuff and none of the german sounding brands that actually chinese garbage .

If it 2.0 it won't be an outback it will be a Legacy Estate . On the Outback best engine is the 3.0 without doubt , preferably earlier the better . The 6 cylinders are subarus best . Plenty good examples around and now winter mostly over the prices go low and market for 3 litre auto estates not great, you do find lot of very clean examples about if look hard and can travel couple hundred miles (potentially troublesome times go buying due to covid restrictions)

Buying not very old and from crash salvage it should be fine, I do this for a living and would trust genuine low use oem over new aftermarket. If you see how many faulty aftermarket parts (even top brands) we have had in a month you would faint. For starters, alternators, power steering pumps and aircon pumps used genuine best way go especially when talking about parts only 3 to 5 years old. Pump fitting is quick and easy on these but re-gassing is the cost, shop around for that.

number seems correct. I assume it 4.44, you look for tags on rear diff ?

Pick up genuine pump used pulled from crash damage salvage, same pump used on few models such as xv and likely get newer pump such as 2016 or 2018 and half the cost of cheap brands that likely not fit . Just put the subaru part number in eBay .

As above, any modern diesel is not a great product . emission control can be expensive problem and the subaru crank issue is very real and expensive . I've had 3 in my yard his year already and none got repaired, simply owners don't want spend what required and overall condition not good emough and used market got little interest in the diesel thus they next to worthless . Really is no benefit in diesel unless really doing high miles or buy pre dpf vehicles ...

yes, have a look at the vehicle build tags in your engine bay ...

EZ30 EZ36 engine series . EZ30 is great engine, should of been used more especially in north american market instead of the 2.5 and should of been put in a Forester model ...

Water pump best done unless it very low miles (use oem pump only, they about £95), they do tend last 200K with ease but I be changing it unless ultra low mileage where it silly throwing totally serviceable quality parts away . Your problem is if does turn into bigger job the price at dealer get stupid fast and they might not be as flexible at solution paths . At point of engine build you be better off sourcing used engine or donor vehicle for simple swap . (get a lot cheap thanks to subframe corrosion) Hopefully they done some due diligence already such as leak-down test so know what head/cylinders at fault and exactly what leaking and bore scoped effected cylinder/cylinders along with oil and oil pressure checks and engine running audio checks to get some idea it likely easy viable repair . If it low mileage engine and you been good with oil changes and overheating been minimal it good chance be fairly straight forward top end work. For sure you never know 100% until get into it but you don't want end up with a 5K bill . You might be wise pondering options such as looking at used 3.0 outbacks in your area for prices on very clean ones or a mot failure for donor engine, and getting a couple quotes elsewhere just to gauge price variations you got locally. I do agree with you on spending little extra somewhere you got some history and confidence is worthwhile but you also never find the really good independents & specialists unless look .

Is a shame that as EZ is the unstated crown jewel of subaru engines . If the car good example it worth doing as you won't buy better even with 10K in your pocket . I would say you could get better price on work than that, my guideline estimate without seeing it be around 2200+vat which include all parts/fluids and head machine shop costs . LPG can be harsh on valves so they need good inspection and heads need proper checks for straightness and cracks . They not hard to do but quality parts and good working practise are key and preferably mechanics with fair bit of subaru experience as experience saves time and makes better choices on parts and process of the task .

Kits for the sumitomo calipers are quite pricey, hard chrome piston kits under half cost of stainless and stainless kits good 35% more expensive than lot of other caliper stainless piston kits unfortunately . Price for doing it yourself will mount up if need refinish/paint caliper by times include cleaning/prep and refinishing products . If finish still good then general diy strip and rebuild with decent kit is viable and may save money, as soon as needs total finishing you generally always better off using professional services unless want the project and even more so when got recommended services from other owners . Not very often we rebuild calipers as professional refurb route tends be cheaper and includes some warranty/liability advantages. only time we tend do them is if customer very specific on what wants or fast turnaround means we need do it get it out on time and do keep some piston kits on the shelf for fast turnaound and also holding some stock enables some control on better part pricing .

power the motor with a 14v tool battery or a spare car battery with couple spare bits of cable and clips . I use a 14v tool battery in salvage yard all time for testing things like fans, pumps and wiper/window motors. On window motor you simply reverse polarity for up/down (motor drive direction)

Dexron lll or subaru oem spec .

lot of newer cars do fluctuate around 40 to 60mA, seem have lot of pointless module wakeups and users across lot of car manufacturers are suffering from poor battery life, constant no starts and general buggy module software along with silly short lifespan faults from general penny pinching component quality. In my opinion anything over 40mA is not good even if it engineered to be that level, Newer cars are killing batteries real fast from combination of higher drain pulling batteries down further and causing more deterioration in the cells and from fact most modern car battery durability is about half of what it was a decade or 2 ago . Older models was about 40mA max and we didn't like seeing it that high really, well under 30 preferred and good out the factory range was seen around 15 to 25mA . A lot of poor engineering exists today unfortunately in poor choice of way too much unneeded electronics along with sloppy software and general poor quality from engineering to a minimal quality level which is putting most of the new stuff in the crusher while the older generation vehicles still going almost faultlessly . Really is good environmental logic is newer cars ! (far from it if do lifespan equations and include amount of parts and consumables they used)

Well you certainly got a parasitic draw, fairly large, likely close to 1 amp. You would expect under 20mA draw on these once locked and modules all sleeping . Don't overlook possibility of alternator being culprit, bad diode will cause it pull current when stationary . You could check that easily with you multimeter in amp mode in series or just leave alternator harness and cable to battery disconnected overnight . Your best way beyond this is leaving bonnet and drivers door open with bonnet alarm and door latch moved to lock/closed positions and allow car modules to go fully sleep and measure voltage drops across fuses and use a voltage drop to amp draw chart find circuit that active then pull up some wiring diagrams of that circuit to search and test further to narrow it down . You will find a huge amount of information and videos on doing voltage drop parasitic draw testing online that be far more fast education training that what I can put in this reply. Fast way we do it on what likely large current draw like yours seems to be is infrared thermometer (preferably imager), can pinpoint the hot fuse/relay/module/motor/solenoid in literary seconds . Basically as you got a multimeter, you got good chance narrow this down with bit more work and mastering a technique . good luck ... * Would be good putting your multimeter in series with battery + to actually measure the current draw so you know figures you looking for (some good videos can be found on how easily do this ) An amp clamp meter useful for this sort of auto test work that cheap is UT210E, pretty good and under £30 mark and can be made a really nice cheap tool if modify the firmware a little, I got a couple of these meters and they useful and disposable to me at that cost .

change it is the sensible route . You could probably do a repair plastic welding it if really had to but simply not worth messing with and cooling system issues can end badly and your wife giving you a black eye & kick in the crown jewels . Those plastic end cap rads are garbage long term as the hot coolant and heat cycles leaches chemicals from plastic and they become as fragile as an egg shell . Generally we add a rad to a quote on few jobs when know they likely best replaced and likely be a problem . Have had pay for a radiator for a customer myself as they moaned I broke it and to be fair I hadn't highlighted the risk and it wasn't directly linked to work being done, they can get really bad, good old pressed metal was far better, alloy is great and do find some pretty good options at sensible money .

the C frame available (ICP may have it stocked) but as prices for like new used been far cheaper we never went new route as most customers wouldn't pay it . The sump doesn't come with gasket as uses sealant from factory and that how you redo it, subaru do sealant but it crazy priced and plenty good sealants available from motor factors or online. Most people who not done professional work or made effort learn sensible application of sealant make a right mess, even to point excess sealant that come out of joint on inside ends up in oil galleries or blocks sump oil pickup killing the engine. I've seen so many awful applications of sealant I like highlight the issue in hope people learn a bit more on usage technique and take a little more care doing it . I do believe SSM has some instructions on sealant application, I will upload it if can tomorrow .

the bolts are all available as subaru parts ... I assume you referring to the C frame rather than the subframe that the engine mounts on ? either can be sourced used, C frame is most common for corrosion . Sump can be fairly common too, we done an engine swap late last year as owner had avoided getting a sump at a heavy final cost ...

We get genuine sumps from ICP, they about 40 to £50, you should get some club discount with them. https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=6403&cat=96&sub=494&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= You need lift engine slightly fit in car, will need quality sealant and applied properly to avoid leaks or problems from excess sealant . Front frame assembly can be sourced A1 condition used and pretty easy fit if don't break any mounting bolts or captive nut plates (plenty penetrant in advance big help) . eBay a good source or good breaker .