Jay762

Might have to retract my statement there.... been doing a bit more digging ( http://www.knfilters.co.uk/search/product.aspx?prod=33-2304) and they look like they are pre oiled - when I first bought K&N's they came with a little oil bottle which I never used now they dont. The filter itself certainly did not have the feel of any oil so I believe I was mistaken I ran a K&N on my STI and am now running one on my RX - no issues with oiled up MAF on either but obviously to avoid any risk at all go for one of the other suggested.

Im running K&N - comes oil free and did not oil it prior to fitting (only ever oiled my MX bike filters) but either K&N or Cosworth will see you right

With Defi I thought it depended on the gauge some are ordered colour specific some you can change, have a link somewhere....

great looking motor - some quality upgrades

Only dealt with them a couple of times - had no issues, mate of mine deals with them regularly, has one of them posh Datsun R35 thingies and rates them. Given your location I dont see why a call would be out of the question.

not familiar with your model but steering columns I have played with in past could only go in one way or had a pin / knuckle joint at the base which would mean 180˚ out could be possible. When fitting aftermarket steering wheel bosses they were bolt mount so could be rotated Have you had the wheel off? Could you post some pics?

Yup as mentioned previously go for a bespoke map rather than a flash - particularly if the car has been modified

nightmare - you are well within legal rights and should have it all sorted by garage, it just may be a frustrating process

wotcha and welcome!!

ahh just seen you have purchased some beefy arb's

the manual gives the following: Toe Fr 0mm Rr 0mm Camber Fr -0˚10' Rr -1˚15' feedback from a mate who previously owned a classic said the setup on my STI was too soft as a whole in comparison Consider a suspension package that will lower the front about 20mm and stiffen everything up but one of the things that will change the feel a lot for fast road is the steering rack ratio not being high enough. The rack from the new STI has a better ratio for quicker steering. Litchfield do handling packs which also include an uprated rear arb - something to consider also? http://www.litchfieldimports.co.uk/SUBARU/Subaru-Performance-Upgrades/subaru_08_handling

That looks awesome, having the black matching the trim and wheels really sets it off

Yup if you can hold on to it for the right buyer do so as it looks like a tidy motor, is it a manual or auto?

Great idea - pinned

those are some nice smooth lines for sure

Wotcha and welcome - love a hatch me

Wotcha and welcome - shame she wasn't happy - coming into their own at this time of year

It might be he rents the dyno from RCM on a per day basis? Bob Rawle is someone to consider but he is busy so you may have to wait for / travel to a dyno session he is holding

I have not heard anything negative about Bob Rawle over the last few years, as I understand it though he is busy so you may have to wait for a map although I know he did attend specific Dyno days set up purely so he could map a group of cars

useful tip that ^^^^

you flash people you if it was me and the engine was out of Subaru warranty I would consider an upgrade similar to the 330s models - freer flowing backbox / exhaust, panel filter and a map from someone like ECUTEK giving a few more ponies plus flat foot shifting, launch control and antilag. The reamp will sort any potential fuelling issues on the standard map also as it will be tailored to your motor specifically

Try fitting unequal length headers first that should give you the lumpy idle etc, failing that try a prodrive back box, had one on my hatch as a dealer PPP upgrade (pre 330s) quad pipe but not too much increase in volume

dusted me with a christmas tree in the back - legend

Wotcha and welcome!!

If you specify the boost limits the fuel will be regulated accordingly as the amount of air being forced into the chambers will be increasing. You will have the sensor in the exhaust as one input the MAF monitoring air flow in the MAP measuring your manifold pressure which inputting to the ECU map will result in the fuel being metered accordingly - as you dont want it running lean under higher boost situations extra fuel will be pumped in. If (cant remember the member who measured the boost, possibly Sccoby Pete / Salsa or Sandals) the i mode only runs 0.5bar and if no fuel compensation is made against a 1.5bar possible the car would run very rich. So at 0.5bar the air fuel ratio will still be driven to 15.1 (Lambda 1) by the 3 sensors but will not be as dense going into the chambers giving power release of X. At 1.5bar (S#) the air fuel ratio will still be maintained by the ECU adding more fuel as it senses a drop but due to the pressure in the manifold the mixture is denser giving a bigger bang of Z. So whilst your throttle position does not change whilst switching modes the revs will increase because you are forcing a denser mixture into each chamber causing revs to rise and a subsequent greater increase in power generated for smaller throttle movement - hence the throttle response feels 'crisper' or 'sharper'. Why not get a turbo boost gauge fitted and see? I know my Hatch STI was a few years older but you could definitely tell all 329 horses were in play during S# mode. Have you tried minimising of taking off the traction control as well as that can interfere?