Jay762

Let me know if you need a hand twirling the spanners as Im local to yourself

Good luck with the sale - that is a cracking example

Also what the JGM map will give you are options that can be activated that are not standard as you will have a drive by wire throttle fun things like Flat foot shifting Launch control Downshift throttle blip and anti lag ;)

Putting money into cars always carries the risk of not getting a financial return and when selling something you will always get people starting negotiations at a low amount. What exactly do you consider "a decent amount of cash"? and what number RA is it?

ok so my 2p - you come on a subaru forum breaking a subaru - not just any bog standard but an RA, then you specifically state, dont ask me for a price for the car come and see it and make me an offer sorry but you need to give your head a shake the majority of the members on this site - and I stand to be corrected, would prefer to see a car remain intact so I would suggest a better approach would be to start with a price for the complete car and suggest that breaking may be the next stage if a complete sale is not achieved. If you buy a car with the sole intention of making money off it, why dont you buy an appreciating classic and hold onto it or revert this one to standard and have it also as an appreciating classic - speculate to accumulate. what is the number of this RA - as I understand it only 1000 were made??

Wotcha and welcome

complete the service and see if it goes it could well be the oil is not lubing the valves and cams as it should be given what you have said

Nothing wrong with Castrol oil though

Wotcha and welcome - as Gambit says, a vid may help, and some photos would be great

You should be ok from standard - the ringland failure happened to standard STI's the Type UK version had the prodrive kit dealers mods which included an ECU remap to take it to 330 bhp and included the revised parameters to avoid this situation. The 330 you are looking at will have had this done from the start so should be all fine, as Pete suggested check the history and enjoy

inspect your coil packs as well before buying plugs - I think someone mentioned No.4 coil has been known to break on some Fossies

If I remember the advice was to check the voltage level from your 02 sensor as disconnecting the MAF resulted in your car immediately stalling

We had some issues with data - some of it is now missing, unfortunately a back up didnt work as it was supposed to - hopefully fixed for the future

His is set as regional co-ord

yup there is a lot gone missing - where was the breach from, the hosting company or internal?

looking forward to this one - roll on xmas :D

I would agree with that diagnosis

upgrading the hoover :D

You didnt say how old the car was - when I have come across a Tx and Rx situation like that in the past - ie nothing changed all good connections and the Tx is operating correctly you either have an issue with the specific Rx element of the unit or the processing element in the unit itself is duff. What I dont know with this unit is if the Rx element and the processing unit are all combined. If they are not combined you may find a wire worn through... But bringing the keypad into the equation not working as it should I would be looking at the unit itself... assuming of course the information about not changing the pin code is correct B) as I have never come across customers who have never touched it and it was all working fine before Hopefully Gambits info contains the override code so you could start with the pad then progress as you normally would. You may find a partially cut loom behind the dash??

thats a clean looking motor - good luck with the sale

I put in a cree led reversing light to help on mine - it improves things a bit but bottom line in the dark without sensors I adopt van sty-lee or hang out the door

the 6 speed gives nice close ratios as well :D

yet to be convinced with cvt transmissions yet - I get the concept of max power at all times but an emotive side of me adores the change in engine note and the idea of driving a car is to be actively engaged in stirring the gearbox to keep the engine at is optimum. I would, however, like to see the x mode in operation in the snow against the current 4x4 setup

If I remember correctly the standard boost you would be running is 1 bar (around 14psi) that is enough to give you a nice sound when discharging, my old nissan ran 9 psi as standard and with a DV fitted you could hear it no problem. The aftermarket actuator will only change things if it has a different length rod or a different spring weight to the standard item, if not it will be a shiny version of the original, Forge will supply an actuator and change the spring according to your requirements. If you are going to start playing with boost I would advise getting a decent guage fitted so you have a good idea of what load the engine is under when you are tweaking. Make any changes to boost levels in line with an appropriate fuel map (dont just bolt it on and wind it up) as you dont want it to run lean under higher boost, you may also find your fuel pump or injectors are unable to supply enough fuel under higher boost conditions

Wotcha and welcome - sounds like you have the modification bug already ;)