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Jay762

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Everything posted by Jay762

  1. Wotcha and welcome - Nice to see a classic being cherished
  2. Wlotcha and welcome - mpg will depend on the engine spec and driving style, hopefully some owners will be along with some more specific examples 🙂
  3. Thanks - starting to get some traction now 🙂
  4. Wotcha and welcome - love a hatch me, breakers not too far from you see if they have anything Nippon Auto Spares Ltd 346-356 Osmaston Road DERBY DE24 8AG Phone:01332293399 Email:matt@nipponautospares.com
  5. I cannot speak for the Garanville but I have had no issues with the ferroslip against the rubber surrounding the pistons when used on the back of the brake pads
  6. Like the idea of supporting British manufacturer when possible and it is also cheaper than the ferroslip 🙂
  7. There is also Pole Position in Wolverhampton - They have mixed reviews, some good some bad - I know someone who has visited their new premises recently and gave positive reviews. Cost was £600 but that included VAT and addition of a 3 port boost valve which I would recommend getting fitted for a tune
  8. Hi - With the flap stuck you will have a signal being sent to the motor that controls the flap - if the flap is stuck the motor may overheat, a minor risk but may be worth unplugging just in case. Not sure about northwest mapping - I know Area52 in Notts will be able to sort it and a bit further south is TDR in Warwick. A map with TDR is around 350 plus vat - Not sure they can do just the delete you require as a standalone thing but I would recommend a specific map against standard anyway as the engine runs a lot better, particularly in the midrange and better mpg results have been seen
  9. As mentioned already a coil is a really simple device with an input and an output plus a small amount of resistance in the middle. teh only coil failures I have experienced over the years has been down to corrosion of the connections normally at the spark plug end and have been fixed by either a trim and recrimp or a clean with electrode cleaner. Do you have a multimeter as you could check the coils themselves to see if they have indeed failed although it means 12v with a higher than normal current would have had to pass through to physically overheat and melt the coil wire
  10. Not seen this before - just purchased a can so I can do a comparison
  11. If you bought it as an investment and occasional enjoyment steer clear of the lower Ron high Ethanol content fuels, you dont want those sat in your tank. Go for higher ron and consider adding a fuel stabiliser
  12. Many opinions on this one - like oil use. I have always used 99ron particularly vPower. I use it in NA bikes, cars and turbo cars. I found it gave slightly better MPG and the engines ran smoother. I also (and this may be placebo / marketing BS) like the idea of the cleaners they put in to keep the system clean. Given the recent uplift in ethanol content I would suggest you run a higher Ron with a lower E content.
  13. It makes no difference - A key indicator is if you increase speed slightly and the cyclic clunking increases, reduce speed and the clunking slows down as well
  14. As mentioned - sounds like a cv joint to me - go into a car park and put your car on full lock, drive slowly forwards and or backwards and if you get a cyclic clunk, clunk, clunk it is the cv joint
  15. Aaah yes I remember that as well - apologies, branding over product... Product is ferroslip by Molyslip. Comes in x2 flavours food safe and carcenogenic This is the food safe one and has a consistency of a light grease
  16. A small item - The breather pipe connection was damaged so I replaced with an AN fitting which will connect securely to the AOS setup
  17. Jay762

    Subaru

    No apology needed - My Macedonian is zero 🙂 You may have an issue with it running very rich and loosing power at high revs but that would be more likely a sensor than the catalyst, unless the catalyst is completely blocked and not letting the exhaust out of the pipe
  18. I agree with the need to put some in there but use molyslip as it has a higher temp tolerance than coppaslip - I used coppaslip on my van brakes and it ended up running onto my wheels and staining the alloy. Not had the issue with molyslip
  19. Jay762

    Subaru

    Are there any engine codes generated - Is it something simple like clutch slip?
  20. A quick cross reference based upon a pdf sent to me (thanks @savage bulldogs) if it is indeed a 4.111 ratio look at early Imprezas and and legacies - but not all models again across the years and models there were different ones used - A quick check on evil bay searching using 4.111 has generated some results so you will just need to confirm which ratio yours has
  21. Many of them will fit but you need to ensure you maintain your ratio (unless you deliberately want to change). You have probably got an R160 rear diff but I wouldn't know the final ratio. Have you tried ebay and breakers to source a replacement? Also when was the last time you replaced the oil in the diff itself? A quick look and it appears you may have the 4.111 ratio. This was specced for Euro vehicles and had a matching 1.081 ratio transfer drive reduction gear. Other countries had a 4.444 diff but that was matched to a 1.000 transfer reduction gear (in gearbox) I would confirm the diff you have and then use that to search, then it becomes model independent
  22. I believe it is an M20 x 1.5, just ordered HEL mag plugs for my diff and pretty sure they are the same plug
  23. Wotcha and welcome - swap for another subaru??
  24. Great post - thanks for sharing and proof that the systems are unfortunately not quite as intelligent as they need to be with all the complexity
  25. I would consider two things, your driving style and the roads you spend most of your time on. Bagged will give you a more forgiving ride day to day and will be fine for occasional track use, it will also give you the easy ride height adjustment if the roads you are on tend more towards the rural and you don't want to lose your front bumper but have a lowered car for smoother surfaces. Coilovers do give a firmer ride and todays offerings are not as harsh and crashy as older ones - however buy cheap and you will suffer with build and ride quality. So less money than bags, less flexibility but better to get the car dialled in for handling
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