Tidgy

ECU is struggling to cope with the setup, Aftermarket ecu would be the best way to go (as you say syvecs). My old hawk struggled (forged 2.5 on an sc46+ with ecutek map). Didn't like idling smoothly when coming to a stop either cos of the mass of the turbo. Check out the fueling before 4500 and the way it plummets then spikes before settling, The T is a 450bhp turbo at 1.6 bar, so your bound to get a lower result at 1.3. I'm assuming its still running the MAF? Ecu wasn't designed to run that high boost or that much power, my advice bite the bullet and syvecs it. Different cars with different parts will get different results, but on low boost (as above graph) Basic spec, (Was held back cos of the top mount), but was single AVCS heads, standard headers, full decat and decat up pipe, sti top mount, sti inlet manifold, 400L fuel pump, 800cc (i think) and SC46+ mapped on Ecutek by pat Herborn. My current 2.5 is running less power, but on syvecs, you can see ont he graph how much smoother it is,

Simple answer get your current engine rebuilt by a reputable specialist.

Got a boost AFR graph?

Hoping this link works, chap from poland over for some work has his car stolen overnight. https://www.facebook.com/scoobyclinic.chesterfield/?fref=nf top post on the FB page

Thats the map rather than the hardware. Typically aftermarket ecu's are technicly far more capable than factory units. Why people replace them, even R8 and lambo's have them replaced

Hinteresting, wonder how aftermarket differ

Who told you that?

Personally i wouldn't bother with LPG

its roughly 23% iirc, although its so dependent on lots of things like tyres, gearbox and diff wear, what oil etc etc so once you it 400 your loosing near as damit 100bhp :o I'm not sure why it would only be running 0.5bar, should be around 0.9 standard.

gains vs cost simply put dont bother. subaru NA engines don't tune well cos the power is derived from the turbo. Also you can;t turbo n/a's that well because they use different compression ratio to a turbo car. Save your money and when time comes buy a turbo'd one :)

Gearbox wise alot depends on how you drive it, i killed a 5 speed on the isle of man at 280bhp (cant remember what the torque was at the time) and track work will not be easy on it. PPG, Albins or similar will do the job or a 6 speed as mentioned. Word of warning with the 6 speed is it adds alot of weight, 50-60kg iirc As well as the above mentioned items worth looking at oil cooling as well, after market kit (mocal or similar), make sure its thermostatically controlled though. Also i'd look at sacking off the standard ecu and chucking a syvecs on it. Not cheap, but much more capable ecu, plus when you come to sell it on will hold alot of its value. Will need to sack the MAF as well (syvecs will do that anyway)

as above 285bhp on 1bar seems a tad over optimistic, is it def running the standard turbo? Also 203 at wheels is roughly 250 at the fly, so there's about 35bhp over correction on the headline figure. They are both labeled as .009 so apear to be the same run

Sound wont tell you much i'm afraid, unless its running really crap and spluttering.

Its more about balance across the cylinders rather than how high. Doesn't look great with 1 and 3 being down, 3 looks pretty poor result

My type r was on 100k when bearings went, but it had seen some track and they are turned up considerably higher than a wrx so i wouldn't worry. see them on 150k plus frequently

Depends what you call pricey, they can build to required spec. Do you know whats failed on yours? There are cheaper alternatives, but you tend to get what you pay for. Second hand engines are a risk, no gaurenty with them, plenty of people get bitten by them.

Do you know exacty what has failed? said its not running at all?

Tein super streets or what ever they call them now are pretty good, not too hard yet a good performance upgrade.

haha, few bags of rice should sort it :d lol

Depends how it was stored, if it was damp it's gonna be a mess

theres a short somewhere by the sounds of it. need to trace it through the electric system to find the fault. i had one that turned out to be the cables down near the wheel arch that stopped the dash working which stopped it charging

He's totaly clueless mate, walk away and find a proper specialist. after those change its will need a map, no 'to get the best gains', it will need mapping to stop it from self destructing.

Built properly will be good for another 150k, also a good excuse to have it upgraded ;) Yep, Scoobyclinic have built 2 different engines for 2 different cars, both 2.5's though. I went kinda mad second time and had a full closed deck converted 2.5 built hahaha also had heads rebuilt including new valves and valve guides from this, with a rattly crank shaft to this and that is on low boost and being held back to stop the gearbox from self destructing haha

As above have you got the graphs? also how sure are you it's ppp'd?

scoobyclinic are down at chesterfield so not too far from leeds, They have everything in house from servicing to mapping to engine building and a dyno so can give it a look for you im sure.