Tidgy

yeah, exac tly what they are aimed to stop

nee probs, thats basicly what i did to my old classic and transformed how it drove

oops missed the sniff test was done, start eliminating pipes and also check the side of the rad for any cracks/leaks, looks for staining caused by the coolant leaving residue on it when it boils off

totaly different components. Anti roll bars stop the body rolling left to right, anti lift kit stops it pitching when you accelerate and decelerate. arb anti lift kit, its the gold bit at the end of the lower arm hes holding

First steps get it sniff tested, could be the headgasket thats gone and a sniff test will give the yes or no to that. If its only when your driving it and on boost i suspect you'll find the gasket may have gone turbo side and when it comes on boost its push the water out. Get the sniff test done and report back

KYB AGX shocks, eibache lowering springs, anti roll bars, anti lift kit and throw a whole load of poly bush's at it :)

Is it gonna be mainly used on road?

eventually prob yeah, unless i get a straight cut ppg kit again, hmmmmmmm get you thinking that lol

Not much happening as of yet, but have got a few pics of things ready and waiting :D Bad news is engine builder broke his wrist so may delay things a bit more :( but be so worth the wait when its done.

haha, love it :D

power/torque is great for pub talk, but boost/afr is the important one

the slow spooler matey

TD04 will always drop off at the top end due to its size. Did they give you a boost AFR graph?

Its a common fault, the plastic guides in the shocks perish, shrink and then they rattle and nock. You could try uprated kyb's, AGX's to be exact or coilovers. My dads got tein super street coilovers on and they are very good for the road, not too hard and not too soft. summit like this, http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_163&product_id=553 assuming correct fitment of course

Yeah, easy peasey now. Law cganged so you dont need an officia model report any more whoch was always the problem.

Get it sorted. police arn't stupid and when you get caught, not if, you'll get hit for driving without insurance, car will be towd, insurance price will skyrocket and you will get a criminal record.

yeah same here

No mate, 2.5 suffer the issue as opposed to 2.0. headgaskets go when they go, overheating is a sign but on a 2.0 i wouldn't worry about it. compared to the 2.5, 2.0 are pretty solid even in uk and wrx form

bottom end isn't normaly an issue on even 2.5, it's ring land and headgasket. Bottom end can go after headgasket because the water causes pressure in the cylinder which pushes the rod back pinching the bearing and deforming it. Bottom end refresh is always advised by those in the know following headgasket failure due to that

haha :D

hahaha, yeah, must be another grey type r around somewhere officer,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, lol

yeah possibly. just a simple and cheap to check costing about 20-50p at local garage lol

it's more a case of whats gonna give me the best road car. 2.1 cdb is a couple quid more so in the grand scheme sod all cost difference, is been a choice to go 2.5. Cost would jump up for a cdb 2.5 but for a road car do you really need 500 or is it just pub talk? I had 390 in my hawk and how fast it built speed was amazing, take off 200kg add and extra 50-80bhp and it will go like an absolute rocket.

so, after some contemplation and ongoing discussions decided to change engine options. Origional plan was 2.1 closed deck block, but decided to go down the 2.5 route. Being a road car the low down grunt of the 2.5 will make it alot more responsive and at 450bhp 450+ftlb its gonna make an epic road engine :-)

Check your tyre pressures as a start. Friends was under inflated and found steering heavy.