Tidgy

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Multi-Display/69551805/85263VA020.html looks like it may be US only as i cant find it on any UK parts list. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265348224568?epid=15022749410&hash=item3dc7fc9638:g:6-wAAOSwLyRhXnWo need to check fit though as it says 2018 onwards.

any pics of what it looks like?

welcome

yeah prices are daft and only getting dafter, you are unlikley to find a decent one with only 4 figures in its price, sti 15-20k now

free wiper blades are prob worth, assuming they fit them right,,,,,,,,, hahahaha

Doubt they would know what to look for anyway, my experiences with the dealer network hasn't been great as far as mechanical stuff goes

Changing arb's affects the balance of the car, in stock form they are pretty understeery, stiffen the rear arm and you dial some of that out so def worth doing that, but your only transferring the flex to the drop links, so I'd advise uprating the drop links. It's then a case of how far or more to the point how much do you want to spend? Anti lift kit, arbs, drop links, other bushes, coilovets etc is pretty much the full shebang. Personally I don't rate bc coilovers at all, seen to many people moaning about them. Last car I went in with them they were pretty harsh ride, however different spring rates will affect that and products do decline over time so the newest ones could be a much better setup. Whiteline stuff is good, but I find it starts looking a bit tatty pretty quickly, although it doesn't affect how they perform and other than the looks isn't anything to worry about. I've got tein flex z coilovers, perrin rear roll bar, perrin drop links and have to say I've been mega impressed with the setup. It's firm but not crashy or too harsh a ride for normal road use.

are you talking about trubo lag? aka a delay between putting your foot down and it accelerating? oil light is pretty much engine shagged light, if the pressure is low enough to turn it on, your engines already done for. that said, if it does go out then it is building pressure. it is 100% worth getting it checked out to see if the oil pump is on the way out. 2.5's are known for being some what unreliable in standard form, so milage is a tad irrelevant im afraid. Clutch wise if its still on the origional clutch then 70k isn;t bad, mine was pretty much dead at about 62k miles on the car, although i dont know if it was the origional one or not. Is there much travel between initial bite and full engagement?

welcome

according to subaru you can change oil at 20k miles and the 2.5 is perfectly fine and doesnt have any faults,,,,

had a sports cat system on mine, was actualy the backbox that failed before the centre sports cat. i'd guess it as on the car for about 8 years or so.

run it on 99, tesco or shell only.

What sort of price is he looking for? prob want to add it to the advert

tbh i wouldnt trust a dealer to do anything, even an oil change. experiances i;ve had with them have been pretty bad, to point of having to get work done a second time to put right what they !Removed! up. Bear in mind its only a limited numbers i;ve had dealings with ad some will prob be better than others.

if you go indy there are a fair few around the area. just stay clear of a guy called tony hough based over in rotherham (not sure what he's currently trading under)

try europa at sheffield, dads used them for many years for his XV

depends if you go for a second hand full replacement box (have a nosey on ebay should give you an idea) or if you want to get your rebuilt.

millage, service history?

Don't really know anyone down your way im afraid, its worth traveling for a decent job though. Scoobyclinic up at chesterfield do all my work including building and mapping my engine.

welcome 🙂

welcome 🙂

welcome 😄

welcome 🙂

sounds like its hitting fuel cut, check for leaks in the pipes. if youd change the pipework i;d sugest restrictor pill, but if thats not changed then must be somethign else

at 110k then i'd def recomend a full refresh, the berings wiull be pretty worn i expect