Tidgy

Looks like a standard wrx

So is the plan for this to be a generic map or will it be a software for custom mapping for an experianced mapper to use?

nope lol, seen his working methods, his bad tech advice and seen him rip people off, one of the guys on here found out the hard way. He doesnt road test after dyno maps He claims he can map round sensor faults He block books 10 cars in a day If something goes wrong he just goes awol Every tuner/mapper has an issue now and again so if they stand up and put it right then no issue, but he's be told several times by some of the best tuners in the country his methods are bad, but he doesnt listen, Andy forrest labelled him Dung khan by the way.

Try a breakers like MB developments, will have loads in i bet

Hi, the stock ecu can be mapped using software, ecutek is recomended. Custom or tek3 maps as they used to be know as are done specificly to your car either on a rolling road (dyno) or on road, which personaly id stay away from. Decent specialist will be able to do it for you. I use scoobyclinic up atchesterfield for all my work and highly recomend them, but its a bit more a of a trek for you i expect. One word of warning is to stay away from anyone who uses a guy called Duncan Graham, aka racedynamix, proper cowboy.

I'm interested to know what they mean by live mapping? Stock ecu cant be changed without power cycling, aka turning ignition on and off to update the rom. So it's not possible to 'live' map it.

Welcome, if deer can't get them then ebay is prob your best bet

tbh not sure whos out that way other than clinic hahahah. who ever you use make sure you avoid duncan graham aka racedungnamix.

So as above, disks came back after modification and good news for once. Went straight in, no binding etc. One issue that is well known with the KL pads is they are noise, squeaky etc. The mechanic who fitted them had some liqui moly anti squeal paste to use qnd have to say it's night and day, since the new disks were fitted had very little squeal at all, so would highly recommend the stuff. iirc this was the stuff, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Liqui-Moly-3077-Anti-Squeak-Brake/dp/B00295ERQ2/ref=asc_df_B00295ERQ2/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310737079185&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15298736932339091944&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046376&hvtargid=pla-357169835656&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 Ignoring the saga of fitment, even not bedded in I'm really impressed. Bites well even from cold. Yet to use them in anger as havnt done the run in milage yet, but all in all pretty pleased.

Using some oil isnt umcommon, although depends on amount. Loosing water is a bigger concern. Add the two together and as said above doesnt sound good. Best bet get a specialist to check it out including the above mentioned sniff test.

Noice, cracking day for it

Running costs wise i doubt it will be much more than any other compartive car (assuming its not a lemon of course). Reputation of subarus being expensive to run tends to be based on the high power turbo models being tuned to the point of going bang, only real excpetion is the 2.5 turbo which tends to let go if you look at it the wrong way. Typicly they are very reliable without the turbo. Very good in all weather conditions and being AWD are great for winter. Only issue i see you might find is the MPG, which subarus tend to be pretty pants on even in none turbo form.

it rusts from the inside out so need to do the inner arch structure as well.

The secondary air system is pish, put simply. It on;ly works for 30 seconds when the car is cold, so it gets a nice amount of condensation in it, which then builds up and corrodes the insides of it and over time theres your issue. when mine was taken off water litteraly poured out of it. Water + time = issues.

So brake saga continues. Disks were returned to godspeed but no refund arrived. When i rang to chase they said that they were damaged during road test (well not reallyt damaged, more marked)so couldnt be resold so didnt want to refund me. While i could have demanded a refund as they didnt fit they offer to machine the bells to suit and then send them back. which i have no issue with, although a bit cheesed off as its gonna cost me labour to get them swapped again. It's highlighted a couple of things, 1. what initialy caused the issue was the disks are just under 0.9mm less offset than standard disks. Godspeed are actualy gonna change their machining to amend that. 2. the brembo calipers have a pad guide plate on them. Over time rust gets underneath and lifts the plate and pushes it slighty outwards (1mm approx). add the 1mm and the 0.9mm and the 2mm means they bind, personaly i didnt realise 2mm made that much difference. Shall get some pics up next week when the disks are refitted. I'll try and get some pics to show the guide plate issue as well.

bolt obns wise you can fit later classic rear calipers to it, although you wont notice much of a difference if any/ most of the braking is done at the front end

it needs to be turned off in the map, however you want to have the butterflies removed otherwise there is a risk of them getting stuck in the wrong position which afects afr's

So had a rather anoying day on friday. Bought a set of godspeed j hooked floating bell disks and KL rc+ pads and went to have them fitted and after all in (amazingly none of the bolts snapped or anything 😮 ) and once on, they were binding. bit of investigation and found the offset appeared to be 1mm out, which was enough to push the disk far enough back for the pad to not clear the disk when the brakes are off. Few phone calls to Godspeed and they are being returned for a refund (can't fault their customer service so far, not had refund yet as they are on the way back). Ended up with some blueprint disks and the KL, which i was warned squeek like a ******, and they do, so need to decid what to do about the disks now :S

1- what did they say was going on? how did they diagnose it? often the engine becomes noisey/rattly at around 2k rpm when the bottom end starts to go. 2-given the age and reason for failure (assuming accurate) i would budget for at least 5k+ for a proper job. I expect alot of parts will be heavily worn and need replacing which bumps up the price, prob worth looking at internal upgrades as well. I would also expect to need the heads to be workd, valve seats redone, new valves etc etc etc. It will need stripping and assessing before you will truley know what condition its in. 3- Engine go boom, makes the whole engine scrap, takes out the turbo etc

opinions on tuners are like **** holes,,,,,,,,, hahahaha

I use scoobyclinic up at Chesterfield, bit of a trek but worth it imo

Always done my work and ive used them for about 20 years now, have a look at my build thread for a few ideas 😄

not always, but its a reasonable guide. it can refer to different specification, eg ball bearing core or journal bearing core. eg VF30 is journal bearing, so slower spool VF34, roller bearing using VF30 housings, so gives best spool and top, however it is typicly the most expensive of them (and tbh an sc36 will outperform it in both spool and top end and as above be cheaper) VF35, Journal bearing, uses a smaller housing to improve spool, but reduces top end, VF turbo's are gettng a tad long in the tooth nowadays as technology has moved on and alot of tuners have developed thier own turbos. SC series are scoobyclinic spec made by blouch in the US for example.

Tbh it wont have much value unfortunatly, alot of the valuable parts you find on wrx's and sti's wernt on the non turbo versions :(. could try a few local specialists to see if they are interested in having it for parts.

Sounds good, but beware of charges for other parts damaged during the works.