Tidgy

I'd say leave it another 500 miles nd then oil change at 1000 then let her rip. (advise running in on a fresh rebuilt (so new engine) is 500miles on crap mineral oil and no boost (waste gate pressure), then 500 on semi synthetic (again at waste gate pressure), then at 1000 fully synthetic and full boost.

welcome

no bother, never easy when you don't know how to take written stuff is it, i'm the same from time to time.

It may be the setup is different over there, but if it increase the cooling effectiveness aka larger cooler then it will help.

haha thought you'd like that :D

i think you have totaly missed the point. were not saying change the rad, were saying add an oil cooler.

your learning well young padawank,,,,,,,,, hahahaha

i expected a reply like that from gambit, not from you, tut tut hahahahahaha

Dunno if its just the way the pic looks but looks pretty long lol

Auto/manual doesnt make any difference, besides were talking about a front mounted oil cooler as shown in the pic. Will be far more effective at keep oil temps regulated than changing the rad.

if SRR is near enough then pop down. for dyno runs their ok.

basic process is take car to the right gear, then let it run down to near idle. At that point load is applied via the rollers to the car and then the pull happens.

Run will start at prob 1700rpm on all dyno's, just never shown on the graph cos its pointless on a turbo car.

barometric pressure. affects the conversion factor of the dyno. Dyno measures power at the wheels then calculates back to give a fly wheel figure.

I'm not even gonna say who my guess is lol

Not sure whos down that way tbh. Do you know who mapped it? Shouldn't look like a roller coaster and while fueling is ok the boost is doing strange things as well, typically it will peak then drop off up the rev range as it runs out of pull, not rise up the rev range. Although ignore the fueling and spool (was when my engine was fooked), see how the turbo peaks then slowly drops off, thats what i would expect to see

One figure is at the fly 294, one at the wheels 248. However looks like whoever ran it doesn't have a clue what they are doing so could be way out. First off it should be in shoot_44 mode on the dyno, not 4f, also its been run in gear 4 where as a wrx 5 speed should be 3rd. (unless they put the info in wrong). My advice, take it somewhere that knows how to operate a dyno properly and get it rerun.

welcome

welcome

Check the MOT history of a vehicle Registration number: Y705VOJ Vehicle makeSUBARU Vehicle modelIMPREZA Date first used1 July 2001 Fuel typePetrol ColourSilver MOT history of this vehicle Test date3 August 2016 Expiry date2 August 2017 Test ResultPass Odometer reading117,909 miles MOT test number5169 5764 2449 Advisory notice item(s) front brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (3.5.1i) front Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g) offside front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1) nearside front Steering rack gaiter deteriorated (2.2.D.2d) Test date10 June 2015 Expiry date11 June 2016 Test ResultPass Odometer reading104,351 miles MOT test number8963 3166 5144 Advisory notice item(s) both front coil springs corroded exhaust has minor leak of exhaust gases nail in offside rear tyre

As above, have to get it mapped for crap fuel :( still not ideal :(

No no no. Stay with v power or tesco 99. Don't risk your engine.

lol, have to say i love dump valves, although not very keen on chirpy blow off valves

good choice :D

looking good