Tidgy

Sc36, md321 (not sure which version you need for that power). SC36 will pap all over all of those turbos mentioned for spool and peak but wont bea cheap because you will prob have to buy new as second hand ones are rare as hens teeth

So, 1) tidgy- 5792.5 BDP - 393,890 BSP 2) mattie kane - 5337.5 BDP - 362950 BSP 3) stuartie - 4200 BDP - 285,600 BSP 4) fastboy67 - 6230 BDP - 423,640 BSP 5) Jay762 - 2,625 BDP - 178,500 BSP 6) aucky - 5,600 BDP - 380,800 BSP 7) Jamie_uk - 2625 BDP - 178,500 BSP

Welcome. wouldn't a spec c be a better start?

there's alot of ducks here,,,,, lol

hahaha

doh! bad news. Better news for me, parts I have been waiting for for two weeks have finaly landed in the UK and at the supplier, only hicup is he has 15 pallets to go through to find em before he can send them to clinic. Hopefully means week tomorrow i'll get the car back :) Assuming, touch wood (pats head), the weather holds off, dont think mapping a hopefully 400bhp type R is a good idea in snow and Ice, even if it is only a road test after dyno map lol

lmao

Welcome. get some pics up :)

what a 'proper' job that was,,,,, proper bodge it and scarper job hahaha

recommended by specialists/tuners, oils one of those things that has a massive influence on an engine and isn't mega expensive to change. Even subaru UK admit the tuners know more than them lol

So, i have been told that 1BHP = 17.5 BDP 1BDP = 68 BSP So calculate your car and add it onto the list, BDP,,,,,, Brake Duck Power pmsl 1) Tidgy - 5792.5 BDP

As above, varying load and not sat at same revs on motorway etc, also use engine braking to help bed the rings in, find a nice long hill and just let it coast down the hill is good for that. As far as going from nothing at 1000 to all, no problem with it. by that time the rings will be bedded in and seals will be seated fine. Both my engine builds have had the same treatment, scoobyclinic have builds hundreds if not thousands of engines and always used the same method :) Can't map the car properly without taking it to full bost repeatedly

50 seconds sounds a long time, mine lasts about 5-10 seconds in position 2 before turning key to ignition

I'd say leave it another 500 miles nd then oil change at 1000 then let her rip. (advise running in on a fresh rebuilt (so new engine) is 500miles on crap mineral oil and no boost (waste gate pressure), then 500 on semi synthetic (again at waste gate pressure), then at 1000 fully synthetic and full boost.

welcome

no bother, never easy when you don't know how to take written stuff is it, i'm the same from time to time.

It may be the setup is different over there, but if it increase the cooling effectiveness aka larger cooler then it will help.

haha thought you'd like that :D

i think you have totaly missed the point. were not saying change the rad, were saying add an oil cooler.

your learning well young padawank,,,,,,,,, hahahaha

i expected a reply like that from gambit, not from you, tut tut hahahahahaha

Dunno if its just the way the pic looks but looks pretty long lol

Auto/manual doesnt make any difference, besides were talking about a front mounted oil cooler as shown in the pic. Will be far more effective at keep oil temps regulated than changing the rad.

if SRR is near enough then pop down. for dyno runs their ok.

basic process is take car to the right gear, then let it run down to near idle. At that point load is applied via the rollers to the car and then the pull happens.