Mark D

Oh well incase anyone gets into the position I was in: The ignition lock on the car was one where the dowels had to be drilled out to get the barrel out and the one I was given had a pin you could push to slide the barrel out.. Need to remove the old one anyway to drill both sides so ended up sliding the barrel out, reusing that white plug and slid the old plastic ring over the new lock. Bit loose on the steering lock as the metal was shaped different but just got new bolts to be able to put the whole thing on tighter so it doesn't jiggle around, all works as it should :) (Apart from at the moment chip is in the old key, so just need that against the circle bit of plastic when starting, but after starting it can be removed :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmmm never mind, the one that was given looked different with different plastics on the outside etc but was only interested in changing the insides... found out the one on the car is a type that needs the 'pins' drilled at either side to slide it out :/ boohoo Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi, trying to slide out the tumblers on the car, on the second hand one I got the pin pushes in easily whereas the one on the car the pin doesn't move at all! Is this the right pin or what am I doing wrong? The key and or tumblers are worn, jiggles in the slot etc. Tried key in all positions, starting to annoy me now! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where abouts are you? I'm in Norwich, I have a scan tool that allows me to read sensors and reset codes etc. Perhaps you are near someone else on here with the same gadgets that can help you out and show you how to use them, then if you got your own you'd be comfortable with using them and keep it in your car. Always good knowing what the codes are if one pops up and you're 100 miles from home! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just fill up to the top, reset miles, fill up to the top again, see how many litres it is compared to your miles. Started doing this after the exhaust on my escort hit one of those folding poles/bollards which pushed it back and hit my petrol tank making the gauge always read full. When your light turns on you have 9-10 litres of fuel Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

... And I guess he changed rear o2 already because for some reason my sensor connector has to be upside down to correctly match the cars wires :s Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Previous owner to my 2001 2.5 legacy had that code, I got the car at 90,000 miles with that code coming on/off then it didn't come on for awhile. Went to a petrol station I hadn't used in awhile and it came on. Now at 180,000 miles and hasn't come on. Some companies blend their fuel to make it more environmentally friendly or cheaper etc, so just avoid them and should be ok. Now currently at 180,000 miles Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The garage that read your code might have been able to read what the rear o2 is reading, i think if the cat is dead it should read as if it was on the front (rich/lean/rich/lean etc) if the cat is working it should read a steady rich condition as the oxygen is used up to make a cleaner burn. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it's the p0420 code, it will go away on its own after a certain amount of drives when everything's alright. (has to be from cold start to warm up, min miles etc) other codes you may need to clear, some people do this on their own by disconnecting battery but your mpg can go up as you delete learnt values in the computer. If it's the rear o2, that can have a separate code, saying the voltage appears too low or too high etc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you try the tankful after clearing the code? That could possibly make your ecu relearn its values. The light should go away on its own after two or so drives when it passes it's little test and think the cat is working better Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think bp regular was one of the ones that gave me problems, but the ultimate was alright. Both Esso fuels I think gave me problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I kept getting p0420, changed fuel company and haven't had it in awhile. Read online that the added ethanol some companies use can have an effect, but after clearing it you'll notice it takes 2 trips to come on and after the same time/miles. Read up again that the rear o2 detects the cat isn't working like it should, the car then does 'checks' by pumping in more fuel for a second to see changes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had one right up my back on Sunday going from Lowestoft toward Norwich.. Was that you? :@ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Go down into the drivers footwell and look up, as if looking up a woman's skirt. May help to get a torch if it's quite dark, but you may see 2 big green and 2 small black connectors that aren't connected. I believe it's just the black ones that need connecting to read codes, connect them (with engine off, key out etc). After connected, turn the key so dash lights come on, the engine light should flash codes at you sort of like morse code with long and short flashes (if there is a code stored). If no code stored, it just flashes steadily like turn indicators. I found it helps to take a video of it, then look at the video later. To delete the code I think the green one needs plugging in aswell as the black, then going for a drive but think the engine has to be warm etc but better to look up the code (or codes) first before deleting. Don't forget to unplug afterwards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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If you found an Impreza one just follow that. My friends 2000 has that system but my 2001 legacy doesn't so if you can't find it you may not have it. If the car drives fine and sometimes it's off, doesn't come on in one drive then comes on during the next drive after 2 or so minutes, it 'could' be P0420 which I used to get when using some fuels which I believe has added ethanol. There are many codes and it 'could' be that.. But iirc if it says 'check engine' then there's the wires, if it's an engine symbol then you need an OBD2 scanner (can get a cheap one off eBay) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These regular bulbs or led again? Did a quick read up and people who have changed to LEDs were doing things like comparing voltages with bulbs vs led and adding a resistor to the led to be able to detect there is something there, then it switches from 4V to 12V (don't know if that's how it works on all cars) Just checking, the BRIGHT switch is on? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it's easy to get to the bulbs does it work again when they are out? Not good on electrics but maybe some of the bulbs drawing too much electric away from the clock Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Ooo just saw the post before, looks like you're going to be very busy! Hope the heaters work alright :)

Price on the window was £2000 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah the blue seems to light up the outer plastic cover whereas the white ones make it look like a digital display looking at the picture. Fitting for that kit wasn't bad, worth getting a round hole cutter (25mm I believe) and when the headlight is pulled out, there is a flat bit of metal I cleaned off then stuck the ballast box to with double sided tape Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Trying it out on the sand ey :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh and if you get that kit, after plugging it up to old headlight connectors they didn't work. (Did red wire to red wire assuming both are positive and black to blue). Read online on some cars the polarity is reversed (guess it doesn't really matter with halogen lights which end is + or -) so swapped the wires round and they started working Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391000701362 It is H7 bulbs for my legacy which are low beams only, if you have H4 lights which are high and low beams then I would think it would cost more, so far everything is working alright, a lot nicer driving with these I think even reflective signs/cats eyes seem to be brighter Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't get LED headlight bulbs, the ones I got had 20 leds going round the bulb etc they are really just for foglights as they don't focus on the horizon by the headlights, a little bit goes everywhere and you end up with the tiniest bit of light on the road. For £16 got a white hid kit (mine are H7) , just needed a round hole saw bit for a drill (or you could be messy and cut a hole in the headlight cover) for the wires to go through, then everything just plugs up. Really is an upgrade compared to my old halogens.