stants

Looks like my maf is dead

Is it an auto or manual ?

I came across this tge other day, may be worth looking into of your after an all singing jobbie http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pumpkin-Capacitive-Multi-touch-Navigation-Multimedia-y/dp/B00OB90SOY

Sound which is the one near your neck of the woods ? I'll prob go to one of japshow too, will try and get to 3 different ones this year, have a couple of weddings to go to in the summer which may clash [emoji20]

The metal tank is the header tank, i'm not exactly sure on new age with the rad cap, but as the metal tank is the highest point I'd fill from there it will drain to the rad down, as you would on a classic, Hopefully a newage owner will be able to point out about the rad cap

I'll be up for Silverstone, if it doesn't clash with owt

Have you refilled it yet ? If not i'd take take the top hose off and slowly fill the system that way until it"s at the top of the hose then pop on to rad, fill the rest from the header tank till just above the collar Easiest way is to jack front of car up slightly, or park up hill, Start engine with expansion cap off turn heaters to hot, then massage the top & bottom rad hose to get the trapped air out, Keep an eye on the header tank it should drop a little so just top up if required, keep burping the hoses till no more air comes out, pop the rad cap on, let idle for 5 mins keep an eye on temp gauge and go for a little drive, so it's up to temp and the fans go on, park up check the top & bottom hose make sure they are hot, Leave overnight and check coolant levels in header & expansion bottle, if required top up and keep an eye on it for couple of days

Fuel pump new air filter and a map should take you close to 270, Of course depends on how hard a life the engine has had. I know of people with 130k-160k mapped with no problems

I'm assuming the battery tie down is the same as all other models ? Can you put a pic up ? And I'll take it if the same, will pm you

If n/a then you wouldn't be able to bolt the turbo up as the compression ratio would be all wrong for a start so you'd either need to pull the engine apart and build from the bottom up,

That's about standard dealer pricing, Thwaites is a good garage although I don't know anyone personally who's used them all the stuff on the net I've come across has been positive

Have a look at ht autos they do loads of stuff no idea what the quality is like though

Been out in 75mph winds nice drive over buttertubs pass for dinner

4 hours labour from a dealer plus parts, the kits can be bought from the likes of import car parts are a lot cheaper than oem, you've got to remember it's a quad cam flat engine so there's more pulleys to replace for a start, it can be done with the engine in situ I think the dealer would pull the rad for access which increases the cost etc etc. I paid 400 for mine doing least yours are a longer interval these days

Think yours is belts, one of the leggy owners will be able to confirm this, probably due a change soon if it is belts, Are you sitting down with a stiff drink ? Main dealer will charge between 800-1000 [emoji22] Independent garages will do it for half that,

Hello, you can but it's easier and more cost effective if you just went and bought a new car, In short you'd need Engine Exhaust Ecu Wiring loom Clutch Remap Possibly gearbox as I'm not sure if the newer gx's have the same ones as turbos. The brakes would need looking at too as again not sure what set up is on there,

Yes mate I'm up in the Yorkshire dales at the no so won't get to look at it till Tuesday at least, Had tge same with the washer hose was a right pain to change, does the wiring run up the near side from the lights over the roof then into boot or does it come along the headliner ?

Rear wipers playing up, It stopped last week for a bit but sorted it's self out, until this morning, parked outside again overnight and wouldn't wipe, however it works when you open the boot ?? Presume it's a loose connection or bad earth, in the wiring that runs through the tail Gate

If I can I'll dig out a thread, but basically for the water you'll need 38mm adaptor so you can cut the top rad hose in two add adapter put the hose back on at either end and screw in the sender to the adaptor, run the two wires up round the engine bay and trough the grommet near the master cylinder that pops out into to the footewell, As for oil you need an extender kit, then remove the alternator and you'll see the original oil pressure sender, unscrew that, pop the extender in with a t peice adaptor,then one side of adaptor accepts the original sender and the other the new sender, then run the wires back as you did with water,

Optomistic with the snow there Chris [emoji23] There were a couple sets floating round the bay recently for cheap

this should give you an idea http://www.subtle-solutions.com/index.php?cPath=21_23_33_84 There's a big thread on another site, can't for the lift of me find it now, when i do I'll post up

Top mount spacers would be your best bet, there's loads of companies in the us that do them basically a piece of polyurethane that fits between the top of the shock assembly and the body, I'll dig out a link for you.

Try these http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/ if you give them a call they'll point you in the right direction as to what you need

If your not going to be pushing over 350bhp I would just go for a drop in panel filter, the standard box is pretty good, a

Google is your friend ! However Www.scoobyparts.com Www.scoobyworld.co.uk Www.viperperformance.co.uk Should set you in right direction