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Need guidance on this project please!


kayzarh
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Bin there ,done that and I've decided I'm now a fair weather modder [emoji23]

i did tell the mrs over Xmas that we're moving house so I can build a workshop

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

:D plan !

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Yeah I'm even asking her for diy jobs atm [emoji15] [emoji40]

But only to get em done before scooby season starts [emoji12]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Scooooooooooobyyyyyyyyyyyyyy seasooooooooooooooooooon

On a random note my car had a Scooby Doo sticker on the side !

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So quick update did my 12-2am shift and managed to do this

10ccc93b4d1ae6647eb41f8b44d718b0.jpg5fe46836bb4654ba8a54fd52e9238ad3.jpg

(Gonna bolt that down tomorrow)

But the biggest :( today was this

2e4e423dae4bf65983249f4fdf39dca2.jpg

I cross threaded that one stud while I was tightening the bolt on (don't know how it happened :( )

Sav what do I do? I'm not too worried for Tomorrow because headers won't heat cause we ain't driving it:/

I flipped the bolt around and it tightened in the head so I went and tightened the bolt on it (not so tight this time)

Shall I helicoil it or threadlock it?

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Helicoil would be the best option as I don't know how well threadlock would hold up with the heat .

You might be lucky enough that if you run a tap through the thread it might sort it .

It does look like you've used a old gasket on the upipe [emoji16] both ends of the upipe are prone to being a pain to seal on assembly . You'd also be better off wrapping the headers and upipe to lessen the heatsoak .So if you do fire it up then decide to remove and refit the headers bear that in mind [emoji6]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Ran into a few issues;

She was running fine and then suddenly stopped;

Noticed the engine temp wasn't moving!

Then the car stalled and ate the Battery !

Also the central locking laser light fob doesn't work.

And if we connected the Battery with the horns all hooked up the horns would go off.

What do I do now?

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Did the fan cut in ?

Have you definitely plugged both the the ecu temp and gauge temp in on the water crossover pipe (silver pipe at the back of the alternator )

Did it eat the Battery by jut cranking it over but it wouldn't start ?

If so can you hear the fuel pump prime when the ignition is on ?

Are the cam and crank sensors making a good connection with the loom plugs ?

Have you done a ecu self code check ?

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Yes the fan cut in, in the sense, just spinning for no reason.

Yes I'm pretty sure I pushed them in nicely.

Yes; that's what happened.

I did hear the fuel pump go ting when we changed over to my friends Battery (which is now dead)

I'm not sure but I assume they are? What shall I clean them with ?

No idea how to do a ecu self code test.

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Edited this as I was out when I replied.

Well done on getting it fired up [emoji41] hopefully it's something simple to getting it running again.

There's a how too sticky thread on here

It works on a sort of morse code flashing of the eml light.

It shows you how to do a ecu reset as well

Air locks can be a pain on these too ,was there any heat inside the car ie could they're a air lock in the heater matrix ?

As for the sensor and loom plug pins , fine wet n dry sand paper to remove any corrosion that might be causing a lack in contact .Then a spray of electrical contact cleaner and a wipe over .

Do the code check first to see if it might pin point something as intermittent electrical faults area isn't my forte (I'm just a spanner monkey lol)

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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There's a how too sticky thread on here

It works on a sort of morse code flashing of the eml light.

It shows you how to do a ecu reset as well

Air locks can be a pain on these too ,was there any heat inside the car ie could they're a air lock in the heater matrix ?

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yes savs I checked it and the ecu shows no error and air lock that's probably the reason and it keeps drinking water so I'm getting a new Battery Tommorow and trying again

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As you fill scoobs up (from dry) you have to make sure the heater controls are on hot ,squeeze all the pipework and make sure the expansion tank on the inlet "never" gets sucked dry hmmm mm. ....... sucked dry .

Sorry where was I [emoji23]

before you try again give all the hoses a squeeze and make sure the header tank is full and the overflow bottle (near the Battery ) is on the min mark.

listen for the pump priming the system before you start cranking it over ,if it doesn't prime check both fuse boxes (one under the bonnet /one in the drivers kick panel )

best of luck bud 👍

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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3 hours ago, savage bulldogs said:

As you fill scoobs up (from dry) you have to make sure the heater controls are on hot ,squeeze all the pipework and make sure the expansion tank on the inlet "never" gets sucked dry hmmm mm. ....... sucked dry .

Sorry where was I emoji23.png

before you try again give all the hoses a squeeze and make sure the header tank is full and the overflow bottle (near the battery ) is on the min mark.

listen for the pump priming the system before you start cranking it over ,if it doesn't prime check both fuse boxes (one under the bonnet /one in the drivers kick panel )

best of luck bud 👍

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

savs i ordered this battery:

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Subaru_Impreza_2.0_1998/p/car-parts/electrical/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/car-battery/?444770273&1&b81c41d5217bada47f5d13502e734236565918c2&000020

going to take the alternator off tomorrow and get the pulley tightened with a impact wrench by a mechanic!

Any idea why the horn keeps going off when i connect the negative terminal to the Battery?

why doesnt my laserline remote central locking work (i replaced the Battery in the remote)?

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It could be a imobilizer /alarm issue i think uk ecus have the imobilizer built inside .

Is the horn constant or beeping ? (maybe alarm if its not constant ) have you checked the horn isn't going to earth (wired up right)

Is there any paperwork for a alarm "back up code " ?

Have you connected all the engine earths, especially the main one on the top starter bolt and the engine loom to inlet earth

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Yes I got those all wired up, how do I check the horn for earth;

I noticed a few issues;

Filled in 5 liters of vpower just now.

Didn't even try to crank it cause I noticed an error:

Fuel pump switches on and I hear it pumping fuel that's all good! Then I turn it on and off a few times times (not cranking)

Then it suddenly stops switching on and the dash changes;

The abs light switches off and the check engine light switches off!

Tried connecting the black nipples and the cel won't flash!

(Gonna drop another 5 liters in her)

e8e7215d55992fc7596e05d76b88ee08.jpg

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Yes I got those all wired up, how do I check the horn for earth;

I noticed a few issues;

Filled in 5 liters of vpower just now.

Didn't even try to crank it cause I noticed an error:

Fuel pump switches on and I hear it pumping fuel that's all good! Then I turn it on and off a few times times (not cranking)

Then it suddenly stops switching on and the dash changes;

The abs light switches off and the check engine light switches off!

Tried connecting the black nipples and the cel won't flash!

(Gonna drop another 5 liters in her)

e8e7215d55992fc7596e05d76b88ee08.jpg

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It could be a imobilizer /alarm issue i think uk ecus have the imobilizer built inside .

Is the horn constant or beeping ? (maybe alarm if its not constant ) have you checked the horn isn't going to earth (wired up right)

Is there any paperwork for a alarm "back up code " ?

Have you connected all the engine earths, especially the main one on the top starter bolt and the engine loom to inlet earth

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Gone up a few mm since I filled it up a little more!

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I'm not sure if the pump will keep priming as it might stop if it's reached the correct pressure for the fpr and the engine isn't running (using fuel )

The ecu codes might help diagnose a fault but I'm unsure what could be mechanically wrong seeing as it did run for a while (assumably without any smoke or noise) .

If the pump primes I'd say it's a spark / electrical issue (sounds like it's getting fuel)

But you could check if the spark plugs are wet after cranking .

If it cranks over and you can't suss how to code check the is a old school way to check it's firing[emoji6]

unplug a ht lead and put a old spark plug in it .

Use a pair of insulated pliers and earth the end of the plug and get someone to crank it over while you visually check for a spark .

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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OK everything was good added some more fuel and now it pretty much fires straight away!

BUT

The speedo+rev meter isn't working and no lights other than the dash clock and door open light work!

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still fires up but no lights, no rev meter and the windows are not opening! gotta work on soon and get it connected properly, but first :D:D 

NEW PARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRTSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

timing belt kit

silicone induction pipe

new gaskets

heat wrap for headers, upipe and downpipe!

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1 minute ago, Scoobyghost said:

I admire your persistence. For the dash is it possible that there's a dodgy connection behind the dials?

highly possible as ive been reading that there is some dodgy grounding on the speedo which could possibly be cutting everything out.

really my only worries now are;

cluster/permenant horn/faulty remote for laserline system!

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Just a guess, the v3 has preface clocks (non digital readout with black faces) if the ecu you've got is for a v3 it would have the same plug type but not necessarily the same pinorder.

Have you cross referenced the ecu code and the model code of the car as this might explain the posible difference in pins and the electrical symptoms.

Otherwise check for breaks in the insulation in the car and engine loom.

Especially around the grey plugs at the ends of the engine loom .

I haven't seen a v4 key fob before and my v3 uk had the standard sigma alarm .

What's the "laze line " if it's a aftermarket alarm have you got any paperwork for it

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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