Sandals Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Everyone has their preference when it comes to oil! I personally use Millers 10w40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Yeh any top brand ester based full synthetic would be good, 5w40 10w40 10w50 .. Give it run in and flush at least twice on mineral, don't be to soft on it or rings don't bed in before bores glazing . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Just make sure the oil is warm first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 ^ yep up to temp & monitor oil pressure & leaks before road bedding in . want get it on RR ideally to see all healthy, at minimum want a good wideband and see afr's are good . Hope goes sweet . if lucky won't of cost too much (& you got rid of the clay pistons :-P ) & to be honest most people with a used 2,5 going have serious engine wrench work of some level :-D we probably done more 2.5 engine builds/part builds in last 8yrs or so than all 2.0 2.2 & 3.0 in 16 years ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 14, 2016 Author Share Posted September 14, 2016 O no mr b[emoji85] i hope its bomb proof after all this. Yes luckly we have spanner skills otherwise would have been a fortune of a job. Will do a run up ect thanks for info [emoji108]once againnn. Jay762 waterpump going on tonight ( many thanks for that) and heads if they turn up today[emoji106][emoji100] Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Dunno if it's common practice but I was advised to leave the cams out over night and re check the final torque setting the next day (to let everything settle) When I did use boost to start off with it was just low down in the Rev range . Also "engine braking " a lot helps with the bedding in process . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 15, 2016 Author Share Posted September 15, 2016 Mr b were do i get this 10w/40 fully synthetic easter based oil from? [emoji120] Gsf. Euro. Halfords. Local parts shop. Engine place tried them all havent got a clue what im talking about they havent [emoji85] Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidgy Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Opie Oils is best place to buy fluids from, 99% of the time the cheapest too and then if not they price match lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Try Opie Oils and use the club discount code http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-2354-lookup-results.aspx?vehicleid=9057&variantlist=98436:0,98525:0,141866:0,98583:0,99134:0,98676:0,98847:0,121878:0,131667:0,98318:0,98370:0,98925:0,128370:0,128382:0,169995:0,197618:0,197905:0&yearFilter=2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 15, 2016 Author Share Posted September 15, 2016 Got some gulf 10w/40 ester synthetic Many thanks guys subarus are hard work [emoji85][emoji120] Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Yep that a sensible viscosity & spec ester oil at sensible price too . 5L around £30 to £34 pending on discounts . ej25 can be hard work lol ... al be worth when rumbling right ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 15, 2016 Author Share Posted September 15, 2016 Got there in the end nightmaree to find that oil is. How long shall i run the mineral oil? And it wont harm any of other internals will it just bed the rings in? As never done that before. Still waiting on heads so heat wrapping tonight Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Well on road to recovery there - you will reap the rewards soon enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Lot of variation/opinion in run in techniques, we run mineral for 600 miles max. after initial crank to prime oil system we start car & let idle and check for leaks & top up coolant as required, once that passed checks we raise revs on & off to about 2,000rpm until up to temp. then take it on road drive for about 25-30 miles on b road on and of throttle driving up to 3.250rpm max and light boost only keep eyeon oil pressures & log readings. Back to shop oil is drained/checked for debris and everything else visually checked, filter removed & check for metal debris, after this it run for 150 to 200 miles with similar style driving but more revs 4,250 and bit more boost, change oil again and run for around 400miles using more agressive as each 100 miles pass. if you don't push it a bit you never will get good ring bedding on all side of the bore, if you don't rev it to almost read line you also never get full stretched sweep of bore. If you see how they bed in engines in dyno cells most owners would faint. We built a sr20det for a hill climb car, owner went to dyno cell for run in and power run & I was invited for the show. they run it in in about 75minutes using a run-in dyno procedure gradually increasing stress & bringing revs on and off. was whipping it right off red line in last 20 minutes, quite frightening to watch :-) engine good & been used hill climbing for over 3 years now. With modern tolerances real long run in not needed, most ring bedding is done in early miles so if to soft you don't make most of it . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidgy Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 32 minutes ago, Mr B said: Lot of variation/opinion in run in techniques, we run mineral for 600 miles max. after initial crank to prime oil system we start car & let idle and check for leaks & top up coolant as required, once that passed checks we raise revs on & off to about 2,000rpm until up to temp. then take it on road drive for about 25-30 miles on b road on and of throttle driving up to 3.250rpm max and light boost only keep eyeon oil pressures & log readings. Back to shop oil is drained/checked for debris and everything else visually checked, filter removed & check for metal debris, after this it run for 150 to 200 miles with similar style driving but more revs 4,250 and bit more boost, change oil again and run for around 400miles using more agressive as each 100 miles pass. if you don't push it a bit you never will get good ring bedding on all side of the bore, if you don't rev it to almost read line you also never get full stretched sweep of bore. If you see how they bed in engines in dyno cells most owners would faint. We built a sr20det for a hill climb car, owner went to dyno cell for run in and power run & I was invited for the show. they run it in in about 75minutes using a run-in dyno procedure gradually increasing stress & bringing revs on and off. was whipping it right off red line in last 20 minutes, quite frightening to watch :-) engine good & been used hill climbing for over 3 years now. With modern tolerances real long run in not needed, most ring bedding is done in early miles so if to soft you don't make most of it . purely out of noseyness Who do you work for B? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 2 hours ago, Mr B said: If you see how they bed in engines in dyno cells most owners would faint. We built a sr20det for a hill climb car, owner went to dyno cell for run in and power run & I was invited for the show. they run it in in about 75minutes using a run-in dyno procedure gradually increasing stress & bringing revs on and off. was whipping it right off red line in last 20 minutes, quite frightening to watch :-) engine good & been used hill climbing for over 3 years now. With modern tolerances real long run in not needed, most ring bedding is done in early miles so if to soft you don't make most of it . I had my bike run in on dyno after rebuild - good solid compression achieved and no oil burning. It is a great way to get a decent mating between the components Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 Many thanks mr b as always a university professor grade A answer [emoji108] I have a picture of a very clean workshop in my head. [emoji106] still waiting on heads 3 weeks now. Chap assures me they have been sent tracking says still at access point, just want to drive the thing now [emoji22] Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Owen369 have you put sump on yet ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Piggysniffer yes sump on all built up to point of fitting heads. Waiting on them have tracking saying will get them tomorrow so be back to building then. Nightmaree Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Ok mate, don't wanna pi-ss on your fireworks, but have you inspected (with a fine tooth comb)/replaced your oil pick up tube in the sump, I've just found out that these are prone to failure as well, pretty much destroying the engine in the process, I'm ordering a new one tomoz, there's loads on the net about it wrx oil pick up tube failure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 19, 2016 Author Share Posted September 19, 2016 Cleaned everything with a fine brush and petrol ect. Didn't see any cracks or anything in pick up how much you order one for? Oem one? Or upgradeed killer b thing Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Oem 30 quid plus postage mate from icp, killer b bout 200 quid, gonna go oem at mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 Heads come and are scrappp no gd all picked up same as mine not as bad but not good enough for me to use. After big argument with the chap i now have a paypal depute on the go for my £500 back for heads. He says send them back want my money back first. On the plus found a set off a engine where chap is putting ej20 heads on ej25 bottom end. Local been got them very little wear on cams and lobes alot better than £500 ones got them for £300. So longgg day Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 £500 heads cam lobe. snapped aswell on cam cover bit Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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