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a few pics of my project so far


savage bulldogs
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i went with scooby worxs pump, as i too had read about the walbro failing, wierd story about the alarm cutting the power, but alas its a scoob after all, hope you get it all sorted pal.

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Walbro were always a quality brand hence why I bought new 2yrs ago , dunno if it's definitely the pump .

could be the fpr but, that's only a yr old .

the maps transferred ok now and intake temps are better , they just pulled a bit of boost out of the map for safety so it didn't lean off .

Now boosts to just over 1bar (15 psi) instead of just under 1.4 bar (20 psi) it was running previously but , it now pulls cleaner , uses less fuel and I've gained a bit of power.

might just fit the pump and brakes for now as works manic at the moment and I haven't got much hp to gain from a tdo5

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Walbro were the oe position pump to have a few years back and always had a good rep . Most people advised to use the original fuel pick up sock when fitting a walbro, as the one in the fitting kit wasn't long enough to reach the bottom of the tank .so I used the original one off the standard pump when fitting mine a couple of years ago and like most people I didn't buy a new subaru sock .

Looking at the difference between the two socks in this pic it might be that the original sock filter is past it's best and might have been a issue rather than a fault with the pump .

ED8D246E-orig_zpseda8ff42.jpg

I've checked and although the sock rcm supplied is shorter it still reaches the bottom of the tank fine ;-)

Changed the fuel filter (under the bonnet) as well . the rcm pump is very quiet in comparison and I've lost a the strange whistle I used to get from the adjustable fuel pressure regulator when turning the ignition on .

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My 97 uk turbo has single pot sliding rear calipers with solid discs as standard. They're not filling me with confidence since the slight increase in power.

 

Due to the 2 pot newage rear calipers running bigger discs you have to remove the !Removed! guard's and buy conversion brackets to make the bigger set up fit the classic 160 rear hubs (handbrake shoes are compatible though).

AE11222F-orig_zps5792a784.jpg

could see it wasn't going to take much effort to remove the !Removed! guard's as they were in !Removed! condition (rusty as fook)

Once removed I gave the hub a bit of a clean up slapped a bit of hammerite on the hub and fitted the billet ally conversion brackets

 

Changed the brake fluid , fitted a new set of pads all round tthe rear discs and calipers then adjusted the hand brake shoes .

can't tell you if it's made much of a difference as I'm trying not to brake to hard untill they've bedded in a bit but they certainly look like they're gonna work a bit better

 

93DAA3B8-orig_zpsb9cf1a0c.jpg

6F105A13-orig_zps955ecfe9.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Done 100 miles or so and the new pagid pads all round and rear 2 pots have made a world of difference as it's not squirming under heavy braking and stops much quicker .

I have been running 6 mm spacers as I found my speedline chronos wouldn't fit over my upgraded brakes .

so I stole some rotas off my brvs classic which we'll be braking at the end of next month 🙂

 

Pics not the best quality but here's one with the rotas fitted

 

 

the offset is much wider so I don't need the spacers anymore and their not actually black more gunmetal (dark grey metalic) I'm still not 100% sure if I like them more than the speedlines but if I do keep the rotas I think I might fit a black scoop and mabye some tinted crystal head lights to keep up with the black n silver theme .

1ACCF1D0-orig_zpsa917e5ca.jpg

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Still one of my favourite thread here. Almost there now! The attention to details and just how damn nice it all looks is just amazing. I'd like to see it in person at a meet some time in the future ;)

I've also been inspired to change my 2 year old Walbro pump when I get my exhaust and remap done next month after reading about all these failures. I'm going with HRC though, almost got that RCM one but after googling and reading quite a few threads the HRC one comes very highly recommended and is half the price of that RCM one thankfully! Not as big capacity but more than enough for power levels I'm going for. :)

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Still not 100% convinced that is was the walbro at fault and I won't find out until it's on the rollers again . I have to work 6 day weeks to try to keep up with my workload at the moment ,so can't even book a date yet :-(

As for the scoob she's not that pretty close up with it's bubbly arches lol

after all it's a 17 yr old uk car ,hopefully solved by the future cleaner jdm reshell.

Dunno about nearly there but ,I'm hoping that once running right I'll be happy enough with the power .....

well until I can afford a bigger turbo next year

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Still, even if it wasn't. I've read enough about others failing I'm changing mine for peace if mind. Especially for the price.

Yea, still loads to do. Just meant nearly there with this part of the engine build :).

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I pinned the threads of the full rebuilds so they don't get lost in amongst the others. Maybe me being a bit selfish but I enjoy watching/reading these alittle more no offence intended :D 

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Thanks fellas

I only needed 6 mm spacers so my speedline chronos cleared the 4 pots , so I just bought some ally multi fitment spacers from my local motor maina .

As for breaking the sti it should be the end of next month (busy work shedule pending ) so once we set a definite date I'll get some pics n prices up .

but matt don't worry I haven't forgotten your dibs on the coilovers ;-)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Like most people that fit a bell mouth de cat, I had removed the turbo hotside heatshield . the fmic pipework passes over the turbo exhaust housing and although inlet temps are good after the fmic core the turbo outlet pipe was getting very hot .

So I've since fitted a cheap (£45) turbo blanket

post-1399-140334265683_thumb.jpg

Although the pipework's still warm it's now much cooler [emoji4]

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

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I have thought about lagging all the pipework in the bay (done some of my brvs pipework), but didn't want to contend with exhaust heat wrap (itch'iest stuff known to man ) every time I Popped the bonnet [emoji5]

So thanks for the link as I hadn't seen the sleeving before [emoji106]

won't be doing much to the car for a bit [emoji19] as I'm at a bit of a crossroads as what to spend my little spare time and money on.

Remap (again lol)?

Buying the v1 full apexi ecu set up and tidying up the Shell before fitting my mechanicals ?

making and painting a v1 reverse inlet manifold and alternator relocation kit ?

Or wait a while untill I can afford a bigger turbo and a re map?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well as some of you may know while cleaning the scoob I managed to jet wash the bubble off my rear arch and rip the rear arch bumper mounting point off[emoji35]

I had originally planned to do a 2 door reshell rather than spending a fortune battling the UK rust .

My brv owns a v1 sti which although is older than my uk Shell , it's mint underneath due to only being in the uk since 2009 .

17 yr old uk turbo rusty fubared arch post-1399-140455829433_thumb.jpg

20 yr old jdm arch

post-1399-140455833281_thumb.jpg

A few more of the rare ish Shell

post-1399-140455853864_thumb.jpg

It's a early one according to the build number (think it's number 19)

So I might retro fit the preface ally bonnet , lights and grill to at least make it look original on the outside .

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