savage bulldogs

I'm 6 ft and about 13 stone and I've found the hatch sti seats quite comfortable, even though they're a little wider than the classic buckets . Only fitment issue I had putting them in my classic, is the rear inner bolt in the seat rail didn't line up ( other 3 bolted straight in ). So I made a couple of brackets up out of a old tmic bracket . And 1 of the redneck bracket .

Payment received , it's been posted and should be with you Tuesday before 4 pm. [emoji106] I've pm'd you the consignment number as well, just in case you need it Phill [emoji6]

Yeah that's why I said to take note if the oe position of the adjuster .... unmapped over boost = nom nom pistons [emoji39] . that first pic is the solinoid duty map and not the boost curve obviously ? If adjusting the arm got rid of the rattle ? I'd suggest getting another working actuator as your current one sounds worn /weak .

You can normally adjust the pre tension on the actuator arm by turning a nut on the arm but some don't adjust and if you adjust some they affect boost levels . So if it is adjustable mark the original position so you can put it back to "oe" if you get over / under boost

Give your wastegate /actuator arm a wiggle as it could be loose causing the rattle and the boost solinoid to struggle to hold boost .

I'll pm you and wrap it up over the weekend [emoji106] I assume the blue box thrust race is the same but if not you'll have to get a new pink box 1 [emoji6]

It's fairly heavy ,so say £50 including postage and pay pal fees ? Unless you want to collect it from Suffolk and you can have it for £30

It's been sat in a bag for 15 months ,so it's got a bit of surface rust and hasn't been cleaned. It had the minor chip on the clutch plate (last pic ) when we got it out the box new but it run 330hp for 7 k without issues . Chip to the plate and plate thickness .

I've got a spare 5 speed pink box clutch (somewhere in the man cave) it's only done about 7k miles but it's missing the thrust race (I used that on my 6 speed pink box) and it's been sitting for 18 months . If you're in no major hurry I'll dig it out at the weekend and chuck some pics up to see if it's any use to you ?

I've read some classics will run ok with a decat or fmic without it being mapped in but newage are a bit more particular when it comes to airflow changes . I personally wouldn't change anything that changes airflow or fueling without getting the map tweeked . As even if it seems to run fine if it's running rich you'll get piston wear from bore wash and if it's running lean it will eat itself.

Or the rot got em

Day off work today and the weather's not good enough to to do anything on the scooby [emoji57] popped round to see a vdub mate of mine to see how his projects are going in his workshop. He has converted the mk1 golf to 4wd, fitted a turbo'd and forged 3.3ltr v6 that makes some serious ponies [emoji7] The a3 in the background is early days but that's had a tunnel welded in it to take the s4 gearbox attached to the twin charged and forged 3.2 v6 . Only popped in for a cuppa.... left 3 hrs later with my hands covered in oil lol .

If your's is a 2.5 with avcs they are known to breath quite heavy especially when mapped . But that's far to much oil to loose in 100 mls . Are you sure the 2 port can has been fitted correctly and 1 of the breathers has been blocked off by mistake? If you didn't seem to have a issue when the rcm 1 was fitted , I'd refit that (most things rcm are good quality ) and ideally you need a 3 port can , some people run 2 cans on tuned 2.5's

I think matt knew someone who ran without a dump valve, i've read that ball bearing cored turbos don't like it much . Maybe get a adjustable one and stiffen it up a little bit to get some more flutter but not abuse the turbo too much .

Just caught up with this , thought you had your eyes on a red jdm wagon . Looks like a nice clean slate for a project ,though bud [emoji106]

Hi n welcome. Nice Clean and unabused looking example , nice choice [emoji41] .

I'm running a old school bailey's on mine only vid I've got is just audio and taken from inside the car though.

As above ... And is the new catch can full of water and oil vapour (creamy white ) or just oil ? Is the new can a 2 or 3 port can ?

I bought 1 a few years back for my classic fitted fine and worked as it should for the 3 yrs I had the car . Can say I've ever been disappointed with anything I've bought from icp tbh . If I was to be Uber picky the only minor issue I found, was after 2 yrs or so it had a little bit of surface rust on the shaft.

I used to be a welder fabricator ,so I personally think £170 is a bit steep for £15's worth of ally and a mornings work . I even spoke to a local fabricator to make a few to sell at about £100 but his mx5 turbo conversion kits are selling well ,so he hasn't got the time atm . The second hand 1 I bought had a busted take off , Id say it had been abused as the forged ones appear to be well made though .

A good steam clean is always a good starting point. There's a thread on here that has someone offering hydro dipping for plastic parts . If you're either painting or dipping parts you can either remove yours (if the cars safe to run without them fitted) or buy second hand bits and send them off to get painted /dipped . As far as the hoses go steer clear of cheap Chinese ebay stuff and only buy from reputable companies. Samco . Viper. Japspeed. Ect . As the cheaper ones tend to fail or discolour quickly but if you find a hose kit from another brand, feel free to post a link on here and hopefully someone else will have some feedback on them . If you do think about replacing all the coolant hoses (ie a full kit) and it's not within your skill set to do the work yourself . Some mechanics do prefer to remove the rad when doing cambelts . So if your cambelts due soon it might be worth holding out untill you get it done [emoji6] I like a clean bay as it helps you spot any leaks straight away but it's a slippery slope. .... as once you fit 1 thing shiny it tends to make everything else look a bit pony lol .

Have a squint at the "show us your bays " thread and chuck up a few pics of your bay with a few ideas of what you want it to look like . As with most mods tastes and budgets vary quite a bit but if you're handy with rattle cans you can save a few quid . Or just getting the under bonnet plastics and covers hydro dipped can make a big difference to the look of the bay .

Forge are a quality bit of kit but at nearly £200 new I bought a second hand 1 with a bit of damage to 1 of the take off pipes for £35 . Then had a local fabricator weld a new take off pipe on for a tenner [emoji6] Just keep a eye out for a second hand 1 in good nick you'll generally pay about £80 for 1

I'm just across the border in Ipswich Suffolk and gladly point you in the right direction. What year /version is yours ? . Any particular mods in mind or just shiny stuff to tidy the bay ?

I think rich at f.b tuning has a reasonable rep but give him a google . As I do all my work myself and don't have personal experience with many mechanics in East anglia [emoji106]