savage bulldogs

Well we ain't using my scoob as a company car ..... cos I've heard about your launches lol . If the new box n diff are the same ratio as your existing one and there's nothing wrong with it , I'd leave that in situ for now . As the rear diff carrier can be a pita to free up (rusty bolts ect) And if they're the same ratio you only need to remove from the prop forward . The front shafts can stay in the hubs just remove the drift pins on the inner cv's , undo the track rod ends and swing the leg out 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Coming along nicely, David [emoji41] Just be careful when reversing up a curb [emoji6] my mate ripped his big flaps off 2 days after he fitted em [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It looks like it smokes (steams) for 10 mins after start up ,if it's raining or it gets wet . I get some funny looks cos Mine has steam coming out of the scoop on rainy days [emoji33] [emoji23] But I've wrapped the headers ,up pipe and top of the turbo downpipe [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Getting stuck in then [emoji4] Nice work [emoji106] Give matt at mb development or Scott at pole position a google as both of them have recently broke a v7 jdm sti and might have the bit's in stock [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cheers chap , word of warning though shiny bays are a nightmare. Soon as you put 1 painted or polished bit under the bonnet ...... all it does is make everything else look pony lol . Well there's no way the rails are gonna fit on the drivers side ,unless I can find a an6 elbow that's about half the size [emoji57] As the current 80mm an6 elbow fouls on the clocked coldside . I got Doug from "G19 " , a local fabricator that does mx5 turbo conversions , to swage the ends of the ally pipework I cut down and weld a take off onto 1 of the pipes. So I can move the blue pipe that used to stretch across the inlet manifold. He had this shed looking 1800 mx5 that was braced underneath for track ridgity and running a tdo5 for grins [emoji33] Doug also introduced me to meguires all metal polish [emoji41] So I bought some on the way home ,fitted the new intake and slapped some of the megs polish on all the ally under the bonnet At least now the rails are on the back burner all I have to do get some more wire heat shrink sleeve to splice the tomei maf plug in [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Once this hex plug is removed from near the starter motor . You then withdraw the shaft with a 6mm thread bolt to release the clutch fork out of the thrust race bearing. Everything else is fairly straightforward but giz a shout if you get stuck and let me know if you get the ball joint split . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Put a block of wood under the wishbone and jack the wishbone up till it almost lifts the car off the stands . This should push the taper on the ball joint tight into the hub to stop the nut spinning the taper . That method normally works but it can cause them to be a bit tight to get out of the hub once the nut is removed. Once the nut is off I use a trusty scaffold tube to put on top of the wishbone and under the car , then stand on the other end tapping the wishbone with a hammer around the ball joint to "shock" the taper free from the hub . Don't forget to remove the clutch fork shaft from the box before you try to separate the box from the engine. I'll find a couple of pics of the fork shaft removed, I normally use a cam cover bolt to withdraw the shaft (oh err lol ) once the hex plug shaft cap is removed If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Id Buy something with all the toys and a blown engine then build a powerful engine to go in it . But I can never leave anything stock for long lol . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It's a Ar 0.83 hotside bolted to a 2ltr cdb with v1sti ported heads ,gruppe headers and up pipe. seems to spool fairly well (1 bar @3.2 k in 4th ) . it made 375 hp at 1.2 bar on a mates forged 2ltr with uk cams but I'd be happy with high 300's tbh . As it's a road car and I doubt it will ever see any track time just the occasional blatt down the 1/4 @ the pod . It was my first attempt at building a turbo boxer lump but it's done 20k now (so I must have done something right lol ) tbh I'd like it to go pop so I could build a 2.1 .I couldn't squeeze the extra £800 for a thrust conversion and 2.5 crank past the Mrs first time around lol . Have you done many boxer builds and is it a hobby or job ? Either way nice machine you've built and I bet it shocks a few cars that cost a lot more to buy 😎 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Ordered up a box of ally pipework from "Ash" to try to neaten up the "frankenstien" temporary intake tract. Bit of chopping with the hacksaw and I'm now ready to get the icv take off welded on . Hopefully tomorrow's dry and I'll try to get the fuel rails fitted but it's not looking straight forward [emoji57] . the braided lines I bought we're parallel and reverse flow so cylinder 3, which is the last in the oe "series " fuel lines can't lean off. First issue is The fuel lab fpr was situated where my re located alternator is [emoji55] . So I've had to switch a few of the lines around to keep the reverse flow and move the fpr . Obviously the lines will run under the inlet once the oe fuel lines are removed[emoji6] there's plenty of clearance around the passenger side for the cdf rails and "an" fitted elbows [emoji41] But I think my "clocked" turbo coldside is gonna be in the way of the "an" fitment elbows on the drivers side [emoji30] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Here's a couple of pics with fuel pressure and a few multi meter readings that might be worth checking [emoji6] . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It would be nice to have it [emoji41] if my ecu was capable of it, I probably would just for the grin factor but I doubt I'd use both on the road . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Anti lag basically causes unburnt fuel to enter the headers ,which is ignited by the hot exhaust gasses in there causing a "pop ". It helps keep the turbo spinning and reduces lag (especially off the line) The "pop" is a mini explosion in the headers which creates extra wear on the full exhaust system /turbo hotside and creates extra heat in the bay . I'd go steady with the launch control with a ty52 box too [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My mapper (Clive attowe ) has been mapping since 1982 in his own premises. You'll struggle to find a bad review / comment about him , he's not a "scooby specialists" but he's probably mapped more scoobies than most in the past 30 odd years . His dyno cell is mint and doesn't over inflate figures, he doesn't sell anything but will fix just about everything. shame your so far away but I gave "Clive attowe reviews " a google and this popped up . http://www.aftermarketonline.net/Technical/2015/30290-/Garage-visit-to-Clive-Atthowe-Tuning His bread n butter is now mainly vag stuff but the only scooby software he doesn't use is esl , hence why I used jgm for my v3 uk at attowes dyno . They both had a lot of mutual respect for each other and I felt quite lucky to have them both looking over my car at the time . There's plenty of opinions expressed about who's hot and who's not but for locality to you I'd say speak to engine tuner and if it's local enough , pop in for a power run and a chat before you dip your hand in your pocket again . As you can make your own mind up and try before you buy [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Well I think there both !Removed! . [emoji39] [emoji8] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm definitely in but I'm waiting to hear if anyone else is coming with me . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Tbh I was only supposed to be ordering some fast road pads but I noticed 1 of the rear existing braided lines had been rubbing on the bodywork since I fitted the coilovers. I just ended up impulse buying a full set [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm running pretty much the same spec in my 94 sti and I built the engine myself too but I've got a smaller turbo and injectors. It's a fairly unusual turbo choice too aps sr40 which is basically a garret gt28rs with a 8cm hotside. It's stock location and should be good for 400hp but it was only £200 so I thought it was worth a punt 😎 I haven't got it mapped in yet so I've just turned it down to 1 bar untill I do . If you know your way round a boxer build feel free to join in or add any advice on any of the threads here . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Only other decent mappers I can think of that would come to a dyno of your choice (mobile mappers) are Andy forest and Bob rawl. Both of them are normally difficult to get hold of due to being so busy . I've never delt with Alan Jeffrey (engine tuner) but he has a good rep and was helpful via email with some questions I had a while back If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bought a full set Goodrich braided brake lines and some friction performance front brake pads for the brembos Hopefully they'll have better bite from cold than the current red stuff pads . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sign me up too [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Your welcome mate , you nearly always get a reply on here . We like to help if possible  Do you know if your injectors are the right ones for the ecu (phase 1 grey 380's or yellow 440's ) did you use new "o" rings when you fitted them ? Do you know if the fpr is reading true ? as a slight change in pressure can make a big difference to the fueling . Thought I'd add I once connected the coil packs on cylinder 1 &3 the wrong way round [emoji55] it ran lumpy on 2 cylinders and even drove up to 3k . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome , some choice mods and nice figures you've got there bud [emoji106] Do like a early classic me [emoji6] always nice to see one in good nick that's had time n effort spent on it [emoji41] I have heard of a few people running derv truck turbos and getting good results . Are they standard location or custom rotated ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem bud hope you get it sorted soon [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sometimes you can get away with re using the turbo outlet gaskets but they're a "crush" type gasket and don't always reseal properly. I used a bit of exhaust assembly paste once before just to see me through untill I got a new one but it's not recommended to use in pre cat locations. Admittedly my catted downpipe was in the shed at the time [emoji23] Did you nip the bolts up evenly ? As you might be lucky enough to just undo the bolts a bit , support the downpipe (with a jack and a block of wood) to close the flanges together at the right angle and re tighten them . Otherwise it's a new gasket, bud If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊